so did a compression check and got ......
10-19-05, 03:16 PM
#28
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well that .... AND it cost 100 bucks just for the test ....
and god only know what all they could **** up just trying to get the spark plugs out ...
and god only know what all they could **** up just trying to get the spark plugs out ...
10-19-05, 03:24 PM
#29
Test is extremely easy to do.
Get the car to operating temps
Pull the egi fuses so you don't spray gas or spark.
Then remove the trailing spark plug.
Put tester on.
Have friend crank car with pedal to the floor.
Hold the pressure release valve in to see the faces compressions.
3 even bumps == good and the bounce gives you a range of the compression(kinda hard seeing it bouce so quickly)
Then just let it do a total compression number by not pressing in the release valve.
There's your total per housing.
Repeat for the next housing.
Bam your done.
Running temp range plus pedal to the floor will give you the most accurate real time reading.
Get the car to operating temps
Pull the egi fuses so you don't spray gas or spark.
Then remove the trailing spark plug.
Put tester on.
Have friend crank car with pedal to the floor.
Hold the pressure release valve in to see the faces compressions.
3 even bumps == good and the bounce gives you a range of the compression(kinda hard seeing it bouce so quickly)
Then just let it do a total compression number by not pressing in the release valve.
There's your total per housing.
Repeat for the next housing.
Bam your done.
Running temp range plus pedal to the floor will give you the most accurate real time reading.
10-28-05, 02:40 PM
#33
fart on a friends head!!!
Originally Posted by RETed
Change the compressor tester gauge?
-Ted
-Ted
paul
10-28-05, 03:51 PM
#34
what the blank is going on here?
if you did a compression test with a gauge that doesnt hold pressure, its going to read way low because it doesnt have time to build up... i could go do mine right now with no peak-hold needle in the gauge and it would be 35-35-35. theres no way you can get an accurate face-to-face reading doing a compression test without one of the mazda compression testers.
so great, you verified that all the apex seals are in tact, now do a peak test (with the needle IN the comp tester) and tell us what happens
if you did a compression test with a gauge that doesnt hold pressure, its going to read way low because it doesnt have time to build up... i could go do mine right now with no peak-hold needle in the gauge and it would be 35-35-35. theres no way you can get an accurate face-to-face reading doing a compression test without one of the mazda compression testers.
so great, you verified that all the apex seals are in tact, now do a peak test (with the needle IN the comp tester) and tell us what happens
10-28-05, 06:23 PM
#35
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Originally Posted by jacobcartmill
what the blank is going on here?
if you did a compression test with a gauge that doesnt hold pressure, its going to read way low because it doesnt have time to build up... i could go do mine right now with no peak-hold needle in the gauge and it would be 35-35-35. theres no way you can get an accurate face-to-face reading doing a compression test without one of the mazda compression testers.
so great, you verified that all the apex seals are in tact, now do a peak test (with the needle IN the comp tester) and tell us what happens
if you did a compression test with a gauge that doesnt hold pressure, its going to read way low because it doesnt have time to build up... i could go do mine right now with no peak-hold needle in the gauge and it would be 35-35-35. theres no way you can get an accurate face-to-face reading doing a compression test without one of the mazda compression testers.
so great, you verified that all the apex seals are in tact, now do a peak test (with the needle IN the comp tester) and tell us what happens
i got the even pulses which means i have intact apex seals,
after i verified that i let the needle go (which allows it to build pressure) and it never got above approx 60-65psi ....
I had a weak battery, and the person that was cranking the car wasnt holding open the throttle at all ..
which is why i made this thread in the first place was to see if those two factors would cause lower than normal compression readings ...
i swapped out my old fuel rail with a s5 rail and changed the plugs
then blew all the oil/gas out of the plug holes and got it started ... so it runs for sure ... i didnt drive it though as it was getting late..
im going to redo the compression test once i get a better guage
11-02-05, 09:27 AM
#36
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those 3 even bumps u talk about, what readings am i looking for there 30/30/30 or like (85-100)/(85-100)/ (85-100), and total compression liek u said should be at least above 85 psi correct
also should there be some type of limit between the total compression between both rotors, like a certan percentage they should be within each other
thanks,
chris
also should there be some type of limit between the total compression between both rotors, like a certan percentage they should be within each other
thanks,
chris
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