Ok I've searched and searched and searched and havent found the answer for my problem. On cold starts I get a thick white/ greyish smoke out of my exhaust I know it's not coolant cause it smells nothing like coolant it rich and thick smelling. It smoke got about 5 to 15 minutes till the car idles down and no more smoke. need help I know I need a rebuild anyway but goin to school and no job so I'm happy I have gas in her.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7jdvMQAIQRE

 

Could be leaking injectors causing too much fuel to burn up during startup, but the problem is it goes away for you when it warms up (doesn't rule out the injectors though)... Bad oil control rings, but that usually is a darker grey-ish smoke due to the oil burning. Honestly though, it looks like coolant/fuel. I would test the coolant system, could be as the engine warms up the metal expands a bit to make a good seal with the rubber seals or something around those lines. Just because you say it doesn't smell like such and such doesn't mean that isn't the problem, you nose isn't a end all diagnostic tool...

Also check compression to make sure your engine isn't running on one rotor... How is your idle? Leaky fuel injectors will cause unstable idle also as well as coolant entering the combustion chamber...

LOL @ the near death experience at 15 seconds. Don't inhale that stuff, you will pass out of CO poisoning.... I bet you and your neighbors don't have mosquito problems

 

Most of these engines with some mileage on them will smoke momentarily when first starting up, but the amount in your case is excessive. Your "smoke" looks like mostly water (i.e., coolant) vapor. Suspect coolant seals. Do, or have done, a leak-down test and start saving your pennies for a rebuild.

 

Im sure its plastered all over the site but whats the typical cost to rebuild without wanting to go all race car.

 

Thanks ya'll I notice it mainly does it when the oil is not past F on the dipstick. I know I do need a rebuild cause my coolant compresses into the overfill tank some times and doesn't go back into the radiator. I have to let the car cool or release pressure slowly from the radiator cause it shoots up in the air some times like a geyser.

 

@ Stevo I found Atkins rebuild kit full kit was 900 and to go OEM from Mazdatrix was about 1300 then I would need a engine hoist and some more tools to build it.

@Go48 How do you do a leak down test I only did like one 5 years ago when I worked at Saturn. This is my first Rotary and it's going on 2 years of me owning it...

@JJcomb I've notice that at times when I start it feels and sounds like it's running on one Rotor and then it clears and catches then it's runnin on both rotors. I need to find some one with a compression tester so I'll know my numbers...

Thanks guys for all ya'lls input I've been searching and searchin but I couldnt find the answer I was lookin for.

 

"@Go48 How do you do a leak down test I only did like one 5 years ago when I worked at Saturn. This is my first Rotary and it's going on 2 years of me owning it..."

Pressurize the cooling system using a pressure tester system and see if it will hold pressure. I think you can rent or borrow one from your local auto parts store. After pressurizing the system look for external leaks. If the pressure drops fairly rapidly and you don't see any obvious leaks, chances are the problem is internal. Remove the pressure tester, pull the leading plugs and crank the engine with the EGI fuse removed to see if coolant sprays out of the plug hole.

 

Thanks for those numbers!

 

it all depends on what is reusable and of that what you wanna reuse as far as the price goes