small things to improve performance?
06-26-13 | 12:33 PM
#1
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From: Evansville, In
small things to improve performance?
Are there any small thing to do to improve performance other than tune up? Like I know how to maintain a normal engune but rotarys might have other things I need to keep an eye on other than oil. If you understand what im trying to say than chime in otherwise yeah....
06-26-13 | 01:18 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
yes! plenty, most are just bringing things into stock specs, and there are quite a few of them.
step 1 is to start with new fluids/filters/spark plugs. use a paper air filter
step 2 is to fix things, any leaks, vacuum leaks, etc. adjust the TPS, and reset the idle make sure the thermowax is working. make sure the belts are ok, and aren't too tight, or too loose
step 3 check the spark plug wires, Mazda's spec is that anything over 16k ohms is bad, and new wires are about 6-7k, the less resistance in the wires the more energy you get at the spark plug. so check the wires. replace as needed.
step 4, there is an in tank fuel filter, its 25 years old... N327-13-ZE1 is the part number
step 5, set the timing. on an S5 the stock timing map is fine, so i just set timing to stock. on an S4 the timing isn't very aggressive, so i will start stock, and then try +2 and maybe +4, i've found on 87, it doesn't want anymore than 2-4 degrees over stock, it'll ping when its cold out
step 6 make sure the 5th and 6th ports move freely and actually work.
step 7, the exhaust. on an S4 you can tee a boost/pressure gauge in with the 6 ports, and this will give you a back pressure number, you want about 2.5-3" psi, any more than that and you loose power, less than that and the 6 ports won't open anymore. i've found with a stock system and unplugged cats, you'll be right around there.
on an S5 the stock parts have the flanges welded on the inside, so while they used a good sized pipe (50mm) the welds make it more like 44mm, so you can grind the welds down, or just replace with something like this RX7 1986-1992: Exhaust - Race Pipes: Down Pipe - 86-91 RX-7 -
headers; the RB header has a bad port match to the engine, so i actually like the stock manifold, especially in a street car, where noise is an issue.
step 8, fuel control. the S4 basically runs about the right mixtures stock, so it doesn't really need any (if anything it needs more fuel), the S5 though has a really rich mixture to protect the cat. if you're removed the cat, adding something like a SAFC, or an Rtek really wakes the thing up. going from the stock S5's 10:1 mixture to something like 12.5 feels like a huge power increase (probably like 10hp) going leaner can be done, but power gains are small, and its nice to be a little richer than a little leaner.
step 9. the tube between the AFM and the throttle body looks huge, but its not, its teeny inside, replace with something else.
step 10, port match the intake. i guess the S4's are pretty bad, although i haven't measured. the S5 i checked was pretty good, but you should still have a look.
by now you have a really good running car that, if you kept the cat will still pass an emissions test, but is still faster than "stock", couple this with an aggressive alignment, and a little weight savings (AL hood, loose the spare, cat back) and you have something that is actually significantly quicker all around than it used to be, and most of this stuff is either free, or needed to be done anyways
other things i've not tried are under drive pulleys, and some heat management. with the heat management, you need to keep the exhaust and engine heat away from the intake
step 1 is to start with new fluids/filters/spark plugs. use a paper air filter
step 2 is to fix things, any leaks, vacuum leaks, etc. adjust the TPS, and reset the idle make sure the thermowax is working. make sure the belts are ok, and aren't too tight, or too loose
step 3 check the spark plug wires, Mazda's spec is that anything over 16k ohms is bad, and new wires are about 6-7k, the less resistance in the wires the more energy you get at the spark plug. so check the wires. replace as needed.
step 4, there is an in tank fuel filter, its 25 years old... N327-13-ZE1 is the part number
step 5, set the timing. on an S5 the stock timing map is fine, so i just set timing to stock. on an S4 the timing isn't very aggressive, so i will start stock, and then try +2 and maybe +4, i've found on 87, it doesn't want anymore than 2-4 degrees over stock, it'll ping when its cold out
step 6 make sure the 5th and 6th ports move freely and actually work.
step 7, the exhaust. on an S4 you can tee a boost/pressure gauge in with the 6 ports, and this will give you a back pressure number, you want about 2.5-3" psi, any more than that and you loose power, less than that and the 6 ports won't open anymore. i've found with a stock system and unplugged cats, you'll be right around there.
on an S5 the stock parts have the flanges welded on the inside, so while they used a good sized pipe (50mm) the welds make it more like 44mm, so you can grind the welds down, or just replace with something like this RX7 1986-1992: Exhaust - Race Pipes: Down Pipe - 86-91 RX-7 -
headers; the RB header has a bad port match to the engine, so i actually like the stock manifold, especially in a street car, where noise is an issue.
step 8, fuel control. the S4 basically runs about the right mixtures stock, so it doesn't really need any (if anything it needs more fuel), the S5 though has a really rich mixture to protect the cat. if you're removed the cat, adding something like a SAFC, or an Rtek really wakes the thing up. going from the stock S5's 10:1 mixture to something like 12.5 feels like a huge power increase (probably like 10hp) going leaner can be done, but power gains are small, and its nice to be a little richer than a little leaner.
step 9. the tube between the AFM and the throttle body looks huge, but its not, its teeny inside, replace with something else.
step 10, port match the intake. i guess the S4's are pretty bad, although i haven't measured. the S5 i checked was pretty good, but you should still have a look.
by now you have a really good running car that, if you kept the cat will still pass an emissions test, but is still faster than "stock", couple this with an aggressive alignment, and a little weight savings (AL hood, loose the spare, cat back) and you have something that is actually significantly quicker all around than it used to be, and most of this stuff is either free, or needed to be done anyways
other things i've not tried are under drive pulleys, and some heat management. with the heat management, you need to keep the exhaust and engine heat away from the intake
06-26-13 | 03:07 PM
#3
Excellent list j9
This also falls under basic tune up but get a new O2 sensor! Rx7.com has them for a very reasonable price.
Also cutting fresh ground lines for the harness, or at least freshen up existing ground points.
Swapping engine fan for electric fan is a good one, too
This also falls under basic tune up but get a new O2 sensor! Rx7.com has them for a very reasonable price.
Also cutting fresh ground lines for the harness, or at least freshen up existing ground points.
Swapping engine fan for electric fan is a good one, too
06-26-13 | 04:09 PM
#5
Oftentimes older engine fans have a failing clutch which can drag on the engine all the time. Options include either replacing the fan or clutch, which is a bit much for some people, or replacing it with an e-fan.
I run the OEM engine fan.
I run the OEM engine fan.
06-26-13 | 04:38 PM
#6
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From: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
But, if you get an Efan the s4 alternator goes "ughh...what the frak is that"..It isn't expecting that much of a draw,as it is just Barely capable to supply power to what the car came with!..lol!
So Upgraded efan and alternator,dual pulley..etc..Kaching...
when you can just keep the Stock fan?
I changed to efan because I could work on the car a little easier..I'm not getting younger.
Good List though J9 ...excellent..Kudos..golf clap!!
So Upgraded efan and alternator,dual pulley..etc..Kaching...
when you can just keep the Stock fan?
I changed to efan because I could work on the car a little easier..I'm not getting younger.
Good List though J9 ...excellent..Kudos..golf clap!!
06-26-13 | 04:46 PM
#7
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From: Evansville, In
yes! plenty, most are just bringing things into stock specs, and there are quite a few of them.
step 1 is to start with new fluids/filters/spark plugs. use a paper air filter
step 2 is to fix things, any leaks, vacuum leaks, etc. adjust the TPS, and reset the idle make sure the thermowax is working. make sure the belts are ok, and aren't too tight, or too loose
step 3 check the spark plug wires, Mazda's spec is that anything over 16k ohms is bad, and new wires are about 6-7k, the less resistance in the wires the more energy you get at the spark plug. so check the wires. replace as needed.
step 4, there is an in tank fuel filter, its 25 years old... N327-13-ZE1 is the part number
step 5, set the timing. on an S5 the stock timing map is fine, so i just set timing to stock. on an S4 the timing isn't very aggressive, so i will start stock, and then try +2 and maybe +4, i've found on 87, it doesn't want anymore than 2-4 degrees over stock, it'll ping when its cold out
step 6 make sure the 5th and 6th ports move freely and actually work.
step 7, the exhaust. on an S4 you can tee a boost/pressure gauge in with the 6 ports, and this will give you a back pressure number, you want about 2.5-3" psi, any more than that and you loose power, less than that and the 6 ports won't open anymore. i've found with a stock system and unplugged cats, you'll be right around there.
on an S5 the stock parts have the flanges welded on the inside, so while they used a good sized pipe (50mm) the welds make it more like 44mm, so you can grind the welds down, or just replace with something like this RX7 1986-1992: Exhaust - Race Pipes: Down Pipe - 86-91 RX-7 -
headers; the RB header has a bad port match to the engine, so i actually like the stock manifold, especially in a street car, where noise is an issue.
step 8, fuel control. the S4 basically runs about the right mixtures stock, so it doesn't really need any (if anything it needs more fuel), the S5 though has a really rich mixture to protect the cat. if you're removed the cat, adding something like a SAFC, or an Rtek really wakes the thing up. going from the stock S5's 10:1 mixture to something like 12.5 feels like a huge power increase (probably like 10hp) going leaner can be done, but power gains are small, and its nice to be a little richer than a little leaner.
step 9. the tube between the AFM and the throttle body looks huge, but its not, its teeny inside, replace with something else.
step 10, port match the intake. i guess the S4's are pretty bad, although i haven't measured. the S5 i checked was pretty good, but you should still have a look.
by now you have a really good running car that, if you kept the cat will still pass an emissions test, but is still faster than "stock", couple this with an aggressive alignment, and a little weight savings (AL hood, loose the spare, cat back) and you have something that is actually significantly quicker all around than it used to be, and most of this stuff is either free, or needed to be done anyways
other things i've not tried are under drive pulleys, and some heat management. with the heat management, you need to keep the exhaust and engine heat away from the intake
step 1 is to start with new fluids/filters/spark plugs. use a paper air filter
step 2 is to fix things, any leaks, vacuum leaks, etc. adjust the TPS, and reset the idle make sure the thermowax is working. make sure the belts are ok, and aren't too tight, or too loose
step 3 check the spark plug wires, Mazda's spec is that anything over 16k ohms is bad, and new wires are about 6-7k, the less resistance in the wires the more energy you get at the spark plug. so check the wires. replace as needed.
step 4, there is an in tank fuel filter, its 25 years old... N327-13-ZE1 is the part number
step 5, set the timing. on an S5 the stock timing map is fine, so i just set timing to stock. on an S4 the timing isn't very aggressive, so i will start stock, and then try +2 and maybe +4, i've found on 87, it doesn't want anymore than 2-4 degrees over stock, it'll ping when its cold out
step 6 make sure the 5th and 6th ports move freely and actually work.
step 7, the exhaust. on an S4 you can tee a boost/pressure gauge in with the 6 ports, and this will give you a back pressure number, you want about 2.5-3" psi, any more than that and you loose power, less than that and the 6 ports won't open anymore. i've found with a stock system and unplugged cats, you'll be right around there.
on an S5 the stock parts have the flanges welded on the inside, so while they used a good sized pipe (50mm) the welds make it more like 44mm, so you can grind the welds down, or just replace with something like this RX7 1986-1992: Exhaust - Race Pipes: Down Pipe - 86-91 RX-7 -
headers; the RB header has a bad port match to the engine, so i actually like the stock manifold, especially in a street car, where noise is an issue.
step 8, fuel control. the S4 basically runs about the right mixtures stock, so it doesn't really need any (if anything it needs more fuel), the S5 though has a really rich mixture to protect the cat. if you're removed the cat, adding something like a SAFC, or an Rtek really wakes the thing up. going from the stock S5's 10:1 mixture to something like 12.5 feels like a huge power increase (probably like 10hp) going leaner can be done, but power gains are small, and its nice to be a little richer than a little leaner.
step 9. the tube between the AFM and the throttle body looks huge, but its not, its teeny inside, replace with something else.
step 10, port match the intake. i guess the S4's are pretty bad, although i haven't measured. the S5 i checked was pretty good, but you should still have a look.
by now you have a really good running car that, if you kept the cat will still pass an emissions test, but is still faster than "stock", couple this with an aggressive alignment, and a little weight savings (AL hood, loose the spare, cat back) and you have something that is actually significantly quicker all around than it used to be, and most of this stuff is either free, or needed to be done anyways
other things i've not tried are under drive pulleys, and some heat management. with the heat management, you need to keep the exhaust and engine heat away from the intake
Okay I forgot to say I have a s5 gtu no emmisions here in the Midwest and I have a custom cat delet put on from shop new ngk plugs and wires cone filter previous owner did that also he took off my air pump and 5th and 6th sleeves I got a air pump but not the sleeves yet. Did oil castrol gtx 20 w 50 and oil filter. Still have to do belts and I dont have a ac compressor but still the lines so I dono if I want to put that back in or just strip the lines yet.
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06-26-13 | 05:42 PM
#8
Definitely get that air pump hooked back up!!!!
Not only does one lose bottom end power and drivability, but on the S5 you lose top end as well with the VDI!! They both run off the air pump.
Not only does one lose bottom end power and drivability, but on the S5 you lose top end as well with the VDI!! They both run off the air pump.
06-26-13 | 05:51 PM
#9
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From: Evansville, In
Yeah I dont have the sleves but as soon as I figure out how to install it I will the cars down right now while I wait on oil cooler lines.
06-26-13 | 06:45 PM
#10
http://atkinsrotary.com/store/84-91-...it-ARE113.html
06-26-13 | 06:55 PM
#11
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From: Evansville, In
You could get upgraded sleeves ala Atkins Rotary - get you back on the road and better flow dynamics!
http://atkinsrotary.com/store/84-91-...it-ARE113.html
06-26-13 | 07:13 PM
#13
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From: Evansville, In
Yeah but if there really is a 2hp difference then I would want to just buy some used sleeves for cheep and get the inserts. Right.....
06-26-13 | 07:32 PM
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