Wow everything about this is just wrong.
1. HP and TQ do not work this way
2. Your butt dyno lies to you
3. pacesetter are crap

 

Keep in mind that in order for the dyno to be valid, there must be no other changes made to the car during that time, the aux port system must have been properly working, intake and coolant temps must be the same, and the dyno must how a gain or loss outside it's margin of error (about 5HP).

 

thanks for the info guys. i just got in touch w/ a couple of people. the actuators worked when i blew into them. didnt take much pressure, and i cant rotate the the arms that they push by hand (the part of the lower intake above the exh mani) that part is froze. so i guess i just need to replace that part. i cant get it to do anything. it wont come apart. the engine had such a bad carbon prob. that when i removed one of the sleeves NO AIR could move through it. it was completely carboned up. that is pretty ridiculous. so for now i am just going to have to leave them opened up because of the nitrous. ill prolly just stick the sleeves in there w/ some loctite. and the bars removed so as to optimize my PR sleeve inserts.

 

Don't see how nitrous would mean that you can leave the sleeves open. The negative effects of leaving the ports open are present at all throttle settings, not just wide open.

 

Failure of the sleeves to open during nitrous injection tends to result in massive nitrous backfire. Best to install a fail-safe to prevent the nitrous system from being engaged if the ports aren't open. Most people find it easier to remove the sleeves.

 

thanks for the save scathcart =) i left my sleeves in because i have pineappleracing sleeve inserts. but i loctite'd them open and didnt hook the turning things up to them. i just rebuilt my engine and have been stuck trying to get the 6ports to work. the entire setup that bolts to the block (the intake manifold part) is froze. so its just gonna stay on all the time.

ps: someone told me to get a bucket of diesel or acetone and just sit the part in it over night and it will break them loose. anyone ever tried?

 

this really isn't complicated. in order of descending performance:

1. 6pi system working as stock, both sleeves rotating and opening at 3800 rpm under load.

2. a 6pi system that isn't working properly, so you force them to be open all the time. slightly less performance before 3800 rpm.

3. a 6pi system that isn't working properly and your port(s) remain closed after 3800 rpm. kills your top-end.


And i will state something that i have stated before that no one seems to remember/know/care about:

the effect of the 6pi system below 3800 rpm is much more noticeable on a Series 4 than a Series 5. because of the S5 intake manifold design you are getting better power before 5500 rpm than with the S4 manifold. i don't have dyno evidence but i have tested both and that is just my experience.

 

the 6pi system opens at psi load there is no magical rpm they may not open till 5krpm some times and sometimes at 2.5k

 

you are assuming the Series 4 system. the Series 5 system DOES open at a specific RPM since there is a solenoid controlling it.
the Series 4 system works off exhaust pressure but the original intention was to open just before 4k rpm at load, hence the improved system on the S5.