hey guys, this is prolly gonna be stupid for some of u but its new for me, and i couldnt find anything on it searching ... i have an 89 n/a that i am rebuilding. i first got water in the airpump by accident, it rusted and froze up , but then i opened it up and rebuilt it and it works again... but now im asking this, how do i check to see if the 6ports are opening up when i have the engine out?! i took off the pump looking things but i cant seem to get the mechanism to turn that they are attached to. it is like i cant get it to manually rotate the sleeves. shouldnt the arms turn when i try to turn them? and if it is indeed not working as i suspect, would i have to go w/ elictrically operating them?what is the disadvantage to running the 6ports wide open all the time? i read that i will lose a little bit of torque below 3.5k or so but are there any other effects?

thanks

mike

 

I'm a little confused by your..entire post. It seems to me that you have the engine out of the car, and so I assume the intake manifold is off? If it is, you should be able to turn the sleeves by hand, pull them out, etc. If not..hell, thats a problem!

Running with the 6-port open full time results in a major lack of torque. You'll find yourself downshifting multiple gears to pull even slight inclines, and the car will be gutless below 4000 RPM or so. This is fine for some track cars, but makes DDing the car a whole lot more work than fun.

 

Your post is all over the place...and the subject line has really nothing to do with the content...

Yes, with the actuators removed you should be able to rotate the port valves easily by hand.

The actuators themselves have a spring inside so they take a bit of pressure to push down with your hand, but they should move freely.

Don't remove the aux port system. It will result in massive loss of low end torque, no gain at the high end, and a slower car.

 

I've removed the 5/6 ports on my street ported S5, the low end is bad but what effect does it have on gas economy???

 

Honestly, I took them off and wired them open, and I notice more pull above 3000 rpm, but slightly less torque, not too much though. I've also took off the cat, and put on a single collector header(cheap pacesetter, half the weight of the RB header, does just as nice a job!) My cat back is 2.25", not quite fully open, but close, driver-side exit. I've got a manual rack, removed a/c belt, removed air pump, blocked of AAV, and have a nice CAI. I don't know what else to do...

But the point is after all this, I'm noticing with them open, it's more of a horsepower gain than a torque gain with them closed. I'd go open, and it really didn't affect my mileage, and I'm getting around 20 to 22 miles per gallon somehow! lol!

 

sorry if my post was a little scatterbrained guys. i am running on about 3hrs of sleep a day for 4 nights now. its catching up w/ me. here is what i have. i have 2 rx7's. i have an 88 n/a that i crashed about 2 months ago, but i have been using for parts (4 wheel discs and the automatic adjusting suspension... gxl?) and an 89 n/a (4 wheel disc also w/ same AAS) that the engine seized up on, but i am rebuilding. the engine seized because of apex failure in the rear rotor housing (seal came out and lodged itself in between the rotor and housing and gouging the hell outta everything in between). not to mention that the engine had more carbon buildup than i had ever thought possible (170k miles). when i bought the 89 after crashing the 88, it ran well enough except for being a pita to start, but it seemed that it had less power somehow than the older car. ended up being that the ports were carbonlocked and closed. since then i have removed the motor, disassembled, cleaned/painted everything, new vacuum lines/fuel lines/filters, ngk plugs and wires, new (used) rear rotor and housing, large streetport, solid corner seals, and the upgraded corner seal springs (2mm rotor rebuild kit from atkins and side seal kit from atkins, and engine rebuild gasket kit from atkins) new(used) eccentric shaft (because the pilot bearing outter race was stuck), pineapple racing 6port inserts, cai w/ box and hose leading to under car, pacesetter header, custom 3" mandrel bent exhaust w/ no cats or silencers, 2 pilot exhaust cans, fidanza alum. flywheel, cm300 clutch and 50 shot. i still have the whole thing disassembled in my garage and can easily get to everything.

the sleeves are out of the irons, and cleaned, but i cant get the actuators to turn. they are at a spot to where i cant even get the gay screws out. the screws start coming out (about a 1/4" out) but then the head hits on the actuator arm where the bell looking mechanical pump thing hooks up. i have read in lots of places that they should be able to turn by hand, but i cant even get the arms to turn even w/ a 5 lb sledge hammer. so i was wondering on my options. leave the things open, or probably replace the whole assembly that turns the sleeves (the part above the header and below the LIM)

 

If you noticed more power with the aux ports wired open then they weren't working correctly to begin with.
Also, this is an s5 car so the actuators actually "push" the rods outwards, as opposed to s4's that "suck" them in. So you won't be able to push the rods in, but you can pull them out.

 

Quite a bit. Look back though some of my posts and find a thread about "gas mileage" and read what someone posted.

 

Honestly, I've got my 5th and 6th port sleeves removed, and have noticed an increase in top end HP but a decrease in low end torque. Not sure if it has an impact on gas mileage, but with them out I get around 30 MPG. So really it's your call.

 

Well I'm getting 13 in the city on a fresh rebuild with about 1000 miles on it. Something ain't right!!!

 

Anyone who does not post a dyno sheet showing a before and after comparison between an NA engine with the ports properly working and then removed when claiming a gain should be ignored.

 

ya, i agree w/ u guys about there not being more power up top. having them wired open would be just like having them opened normally. i was mainly wondering how much low end torque i would be losing... ? a dyno pic comparing a working system vs a wired open system would be nice.

 

ya, i agree w/ u guys about there not being more power up top. having them wired open would be just like having them opened normally. i was mainly wondering how much low end torque i would be losing... ? a dyno pic comparing a working system vs a wired open system would be nice.

 

you must be hella super special!
or just drive really slow, because 30mpg in an FC is nearly unheard of....

 

Haha. No, I really don't drive that slow unless you consider driving the speed limit to be slow. If the speed limit is 55, I drive 55, and not all because of gas mileage, but because the law seems to be attracted to my car. I'm not sure if it's just because of the mods I have done or what exactly, but yes, I do get 30 MPG depending on my driving. If I get a little touchy on the gas, I'll go down to about 28 or so. Keep in mind this is without cruise control too.

 

wow thats odd stock these cars got liek 20mpg.... 30mpg seems a little ... well wrong.. I call b.s on this one... or just innacuratly figured out

 

In the right conditions and when the car is in good tune, you can get decent mileage on the highway. Years ago when all I had was a high flow cat and catback, I drove to Cleveland from London and averaged mileage in the high 20s there and back.

The key of course is to have an engine in good shape, no malfunctioning sensors, lack of stock cats, good clean plugs and a working O2 sensor (makes a little difference).

 

Call BS all you want, but I can tell you that I do in fact get 30 MPG. Just like Aaron said it requires a car that's in good tune. I'm currently in the Automotive program at my school and have been going through all the systems on the car and checking them. I've got no stock cats, sensors all working correctly, new platinum NGK plugs, working O2 sensor, and engine in excellent tune. I always don't drive like a jackass, so that helps gas mileage A LOT.

 

I didnt realize our cars floated so well?

 

Here it is here, I just dynoed 2 weeks ago, thats when I found out my 6 ports were NOT opening. My mods are(on a 180k motor mind you) RB header,RB silencer( that isnt providing the backpressure for my 6 ports), ALM flywheel, not that it matters but hey,True CAI, pulling air from where the windshield washer tank was, in front of the pass side tire. It is wrapped with plumbing insulation tape, as is the return hose for the coolant. With the ports closed max HP was 126.27 @ 52-5800 rpm, and max torque was 122.68 @43-4600 rpm. With the ports HELD OPEN, it made 142.67 HP @6050 peak, but it dropped 3 HP and held to 6800 rpm. Torque was 126.70 max @600 rpm, with over 125 lbs from 5400-6500 rpm. The crossing map was at 4800 RPM, translation,I only gained above 4800 rpm. @ 2200 RPM I was down over 20 LBS TRQ with the ports open. I am getting a s4 lower to s5 upper intake together that I plan on fully porting/ matching in the next few months.

 

London, Ontario, not London, England.

 

i know i was just being a smartass.
next time you want to be mildly amused, go to google maps and ask it for driving directions from cleveland to london england, scroll about halfway down and read step number 20 or so....

socalrotor, that is some very good info, you should start a thread with the two graphs superimposed if you havent already, maybe it will finally get rid of the silly arguments about this...

 

Dyno sheet, please.
Also, I could see 30 MPG being possible, but only driving solid highway with a very well running car. I got 28 MPG from Temple to Dallas and back, and that was with some city driving and averaging between 80 and 100 when on the highway so there was room for improvement.
Last time I made that run it was with an old engine in shitty condition and some traffic, and I got ~26 MPG going more the speed limit.

 

let me get the scanner up and running........it will take some time.

 

who wants to host it, 1.29 MB LOL.