sleepy eye mod finished, girlz rock
04-12-06 | 02:59 PM
#76
Rotary Freak
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,702
Likes: 1
From: DC Area
http://www.umnitza.com/
The Predators are the best fiber optic lights on the market. They also fade out when the car is shut off like the dome lights. A really slick set. I am going to put them in my BMW shortly.
The Predators are the best fiber optic lights on the market. They also fade out when the car is shut off like the dome lights. A really slick set. I am going to put them in my BMW shortly.
04-12-06 | 04:22 PM
#77
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,793
Likes: 119
From: London, Ontario, Canada
Originally Posted by doridori-rx7
Pivot = $1.75 rotary POT with a fancy case.. not rocket science..
A pot is simply a variable resistor. Connecting one in series with the headlight would basically adjust the speed at which the headlight buckets move assuming it could handle the current. If you literally took a $1.75 pot (you are seriously overpaying for your pots) and connected it up, the first time you hit the lights you would have a bit of smoke and a dead pot. A rheostat (a higher wattage wire-wound pot) would work but again you would just be adjusting the speed at which the lights raise and lower.
I'm not exactly sure how the aftermarket pivot kits adjust the position of the lights since the headlight motors are simple motors and not servos with basically no feedback on their position past "UP" and "DOWN". My guess would be a simple timer that simply cuts the motor after a certain amount of time, thus stopping the lights in roughly the same position every time...
04-12-06 | 05:05 PM
#78
D1 Drifter Status
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 484
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento CA
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
Uh, not quite.
A pot is simply a variable resistor. Connecting one in series with the headlight would basically adjust the speed at which the headlight buckets move assuming it could handle the current. If you literally took a $1.75 pot (you are seriously overpaying for your pots) and connected it up, the first time you hit the lights you would have a bit of smoke and a dead pot. A rheostat (a higher wattage wire-wound pot) would work but again you would just be adjusting the speed at which the lights raise and lower.
I'm not exactly sure how the aftermarket pivot kits adjust the position of the lights since the headlight motors are simple motors and not servos with basically no feedback on their position past "UP" and "DOWN". My guess would be a simple timer that simply cuts the motor after a certain amount of time, thus stopping the lights in roughly the same position every time...
A pot is simply a variable resistor. Connecting one in series with the headlight would basically adjust the speed at which the headlight buckets move assuming it could handle the current. If you literally took a $1.75 pot (you are seriously overpaying for your pots) and connected it up, the first time you hit the lights you would have a bit of smoke and a dead pot. A rheostat (a higher wattage wire-wound pot) would work but again you would just be adjusting the speed at which the lights raise and lower.
I'm not exactly sure how the aftermarket pivot kits adjust the position of the lights since the headlight motors are simple motors and not servos with basically no feedback on their position past "UP" and "DOWN". My guess would be a simple timer that simply cuts the motor after a certain amount of time, thus stopping the lights in roughly the same position every time...
I think your pretty close if not 100% correct. Im no wiring expert, and before i got the pivot controller, i hadnt a clue as to how to even make something like that... and too many people think they know how to make it...but dont. idk, i didnt spend too much on it, and its just one more thing inside my car that people ask about...
04-12-06 | 09:44 PM
#79
should have said 'op-amp'.. should have realized you'd get **** about it.
also it's voltage threshold 0-5V , not timer induced control other wise simply changing the lenght of a pivot arm would induce the same effect.. and it dosen't the motor will continue to load up till it burns out trying to reach it's limit point, internally.
also it's voltage threshold 0-5V , not timer induced control other wise simply changing the lenght of a pivot arm would induce the same effect.. and it dosen't the motor will continue to load up till it burns out trying to reach it's limit point, internally.
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
Uh, not quite.
A pot is simply a variable resistor. Connecting one in series with the headlight would basically adjust the speed at which the headlight buckets move assuming it could handle the current. If you literally took a $1.75 pot (you are seriously overpaying for your pots) and connected it up, the first time you hit the lights you would have a bit of smoke and a dead pot. A rheostat (a higher wattage wire-wound pot) would work but again you would just be adjusting the speed at which the lights raise and lower.
I'm not exactly sure how the aftermarket pivot kits adjust the position of the lights since the headlight motors are simple motors and not servos with basically no feedback on their position past "UP" and "DOWN". My guess would be a simple timer that simply cuts the motor after a certain amount of time, thus stopping the lights in roughly the same position every time...
A pot is simply a variable resistor. Connecting one in series with the headlight would basically adjust the speed at which the headlight buckets move assuming it could handle the current. If you literally took a $1.75 pot (you are seriously overpaying for your pots) and connected it up, the first time you hit the lights you would have a bit of smoke and a dead pot. A rheostat (a higher wattage wire-wound pot) would work but again you would just be adjusting the speed at which the lights raise and lower.
I'm not exactly sure how the aftermarket pivot kits adjust the position of the lights since the headlight motors are simple motors and not servos with basically no feedback on their position past "UP" and "DOWN". My guess would be a simple timer that simply cuts the motor after a certain amount of time, thus stopping the lights in roughly the same position every time...
Last edited by doridori-rx7; 04-12-06 at 10:02 PM.
04-30-06 | 10:16 PM
#83
Back in 1995 when I did the sleepy eye mod on my FC at the time. I used a 2 reed switches and magnets to control them. I did this so they only rise to the same height every time. Because their is no feedback control in the headlight so if you don’t tell both of them where to stop they raise up at different speeds and stop in different locations
Ozzy Osborn the dyno dude mooning the camera
Ozzy Osborn the dyno dude mooning the camera
05-01-06 | 12:06 AM
#84
Thread Starter
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 526
Likes: 0
From: san antonio TX
Originally Posted by doridori-rx7
now all you need is fabricate something to wrap those light pockets with.. looks very unfinished, detracts from the car's overall appearence
05-01-06 | 01:08 AM
#85
buy me *)
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 231
Likes: 1
From: Dallas, TX
Originally Posted by reatrdedspleen
I have the RHU-M installed in my S5. You didnt wire it properly. The directions (NONE of them, the paper that comes with it, nor the internet directions) are incorrect. You have to use a test light, and **** with the wires...A LOT untill it works the way its supposed to. I got mine for 30 bucks, prolly spent 3 hours (it was at night..thats why it took a long time) getting it hooked up. In retrospect i wish i had done it the cheper way. works almost the same, just a little less control on where the lights stop comming up. And requires a tear down on the dash (and those of you with s5's know that those little plastic tabs break WAY too easy) .
I would like to do the dual headlight mod, with the halos, but id go the HID route, and get a pair of BMW halos, and custom fit those. The fiber optic ring looks 100x better IMO. Not to mention the HID rout with the BMW projectors get rid of a lot of scattered light that you get with the cheap fake halo bulbs, and the cheap HID kits a lot of people sell/buy...
I would like to do the dual headlight mod, with the halos, but id go the HID route, and get a pair of BMW halos, and custom fit those. The fiber optic ring looks 100x better IMO. Not to mention the HID rout with the BMW projectors get rid of a lot of scattered light that you get with the cheap fake halo bulbs, and the cheap HID kits a lot of people sell/buy...
05-01-06 | 11:14 PM
#86
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 325
Likes: 0
From: PF, MD
I've been wanting to do this, but how do you keep the headlights level? When I tried it I couldn't get both headlight the same height as they would move at different speeds.
Also, your car looks strikingly familiar to mine...(Click for larger pic)
Also, your car looks strikingly familiar to mine...(Click for larger pic)
Last edited by ShadowX; 05-01-06 at 11:18 PM.
05-25-06 | 09:47 PM
#92
Originally Posted by 87rx7girl
cut circut of power to motor by turning off the switch
flip your lights to the up position. they will not move cuz circut is broken
then tap the switch on then off. it will raise them a few. (i could have bought a button but didnt see one)
now i can have headlights on and lights half way up. unlike just pulling the fuse and not having lights.
to raise lights all the way. flip switch to on. they will raise all the way.
flip your lights to the up position. they will not move cuz circut is broken
then tap the switch on then off. it will raise them a few. (i could have bought a button but didnt see one)
now i can have headlights on and lights half way up. unlike just pulling the fuse and not having lights.
to raise lights all the way. flip switch to on. they will raise all the way.
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