I was searchin around for a write-up on how to check and adjust my TPS, but all I could find were the 3 wire S4 ones. Anyone got a link to a good write-up, or can make a quick one on how to do S5's.

Thanks

 

is there one on www.teamfc3s.org or www.fc3s.org ???

 

couldn't find one.

And I notice fc3s.org got a new layout. Looks nice.

 

Here is an on-the-fly test:
This works best with a loud exhaust. Find a flat open road with a gap in the traffic. Cruise along at about 3k rpm. Liftt off the throttle. This should give a fuel cut on both rotors as you back down. The motor is just pumping air. Very gently pick up just the slightest throttle. With practice you can hear the rough sound of only #1 rotor getting fuel, while #2 pumps air. Then adding just a little more throttle, #2 comes on.
You can also do this as you slow down in gear and the throttle is very near, but not quite at idle.
As you lift the throttle you can hear the #2 fuel cut before #1.
When you get down to near 1500rpm fuel comes back on to prevent stalling, so this works best between 1500 and 3k.

 

Either you get the checker lamp from mazda(part no. 49F018001) for $30 or you can build your own using two 12v low wattage LEDs from Radio Shack.
Building your own, twist the 2 red leads of the LEDs and put a male blade connector on it.
Now put a male blade connector on each of the remaining black leads.
Locate the 3 prong green connector near the front of the passenger shock tower.
This 3 prong connector has 2 female connectors parallel to each other, go ahead and stick the black leads into each of them; the red lead should be obvious.
Drive the car for 5-10 minutes to heat up the engine compartment. Shut off the car and turn the ignition on(short of cranking). Locate the spring-loaded screw for the TPS.
Watch the LED lights as you adjust. If neither lights up, turn the screw CLOCKWISE.
If both lights up, turn it COUNTER-CLOCKWISE. The idea is to get only 1 LED to light up, shouldn't matter which one. After it's set, tap on the throttle a few times to make sure it has "settled" in. You should be good to go.
Note: Be careful in your selection of LEDs, it could fry your ecu if the ratings are off-limits.
Also, this test does not validate TPS functionality at WOT. The Digital ohm meter should be used instead.

 

I have a digital MM with an OHM meter on it.

Is there a way to do it entirely with that rather than building those damn LED's?

 

Remember, what you're wanting to determine is what the ECU is seeing - you want the ECU to be happy with what the TPS is doing. The stock wiring, over time, will build up some resistance in the wiring, so setting it with a meter could be dead-on, but the ECU is seeing a different thing altogether.

IMHO, the test lamps are really the best way to set it. Use the meter to test the TPS itself to make sure it isn't bad.

Dale

 

Building the test lamps aren't all that bad unless your nearest Radio Shack or electronics shop is 30 miles away. The crimping should take less than 5 minutes. Frankly, I rather do 20 test lamps than a single oil change/coolant flush.

 

Ya, theres a close one, like 5 mins. Its just that I have my MM here with me now, and I don't wanna get up

 

http://fc3s-pro.com/TECH/HOWTO/TPS/tps.html

 

http://www.johnr.com/tps.html

 

I asked for Series 5, not Series 4. I know those sites, that wasn't the problem.