biorotary

ok, last night for the first time since the rebuild i decided to take the car for a spin and actually let the engine see some boost since it's already well beyond the break in process (about 1500 miles) and i've a done all of the necessary tune-ups for post break-in...and guess what, when in boost my autometer a/f gauge is showing lean...actually, none of the lights are lit at all...and this is at about 2-3 psi or so...i mean, if there's any positive pressure at all, the a/f gauge goes blank...until the boost gauge is at 0 then the a/f gauge shows i'm running rich...it doesn't matter what my rpm is as long as it's above 3k rpm, it will read lean if there's any positive pressure...

so here's the thing (above 3k rpm):
no positive pressure (0 boost) = rich
any positive pressure (1+ boost) = no light

i'm thinking it could be the a/f gauge not getting a good signal from the o2 sensor since i'm tapping into the line in the engine bay...and a week or so ago i read that someone had a problem with their a/f signal because of engine heat increasing the resistance of the signal...but before i move the connection to the ecu i want to know if this will solve the problem any thoughts???

also, the engine has a mild street port with intake, rb 2.5" dp and presilencer, walbro hp fuel pump, and 2 550cc p / 2 680cc s injectors.

i just want to make sure that the problem isn't something else, and if there's a possibility of it being something else, i'm hoping someone in here will help id it before i get home tonight to start messing around with it...

thanks in advanced...

GLHS

How does the A/f gauge read after its warmed up? Normal readings when hot?


I have been tweaking a T2 and the A/F is always lean until the engine has warmed up and acts exactly the same as you describe. I would assume if the guage works like normal when hot, then your fine, cause we run a solid 9 psi without going lean!

choritsu-shi

IMO your relying too much based upon what the Autometer A/F is telling you. Throw that POS out!
The value of the power you will produce is far beyond the capabilities of a $20 A/F meter. Either use a real one or get an EGT.

Sensei

biorotary

it's not so much relying on the a/f meter, it's taking the precaution necessary to ensure that my engine is running up to par without blowing it up due to lack of fuel...
for all i know my secondaries could be unplugged...
anyway, thanks for the inputs...i'll be checking it tonight so i'll double check all my connections and what not...