socalrotor

iTrader: (1)

Here is the back story real quick, mazdatrix street port rebuilt, lightwieght steel flywheel centerforce clutch. The motor was rebuilt less than 2 years ago,then I broke the trans. Torn it down and the threads for the flywheel nut are completly screwed from the start of the eshaft to the end. The threads in the nut are flat and gone too. Looks to me like a tech didnt hand tighten the nut before the impact was used and it crossthreaded. It took all my IR 2135ti had to get it off!! So now what!!!! Anyone know the thread pitch so i can try a Die to fix the threads? Anyone had to go to a smaller thread and nut to fix this problem? Think it is worth a trip down to MT to ask WTF happend here? I know they will BS me out the door but oh well. Thanks for the help, I have been searchin for the past few hours with nothing!

13b_cookie_monster

iTrader: (14)

wow I thought their work was bettery than that but I guess every shop has their f up here and there. I would start with talking with that shop... show them the paperwork of their work and tell them what happened. if they decided to fix it then your lucky. if they don't they'll tell you how. good luck sorry i don't have alot of tech about that issue. that will be interesting to see how you resolve that issue.

upatnight

that sucks! i hope they help you out with that.

socalrotor

iTrader: (1)

I dont exspect much(if anything), I just want to know how to fix it!

micah

Sadly, I think a teardown and replacement eccentric shaft is in order.

socalrotor

iTrader: (1)

Please say it aint so.... Anyone know the thread size for the f nut. I want to get a die and try and fix it.

micah

Good luck man... I'd never trust the fix... too much torque on those threads for a thread fix IMO...

PvillKnight7

iTrader: (16)

+1

those threads are cold rolled by Mazda. Recutting the threads will create stress risers and a problem waiting to happen. Let me put it like this: Would you recut the threads on a piston rod bolt?

blmcquig

iTrader: (15)

a piston what what now?....

anywho, i have to agree with the above 2 post, their is no way you would be able to get a clean cut on that anyway. on top of that, i dont think you could even find a tap and die that big, and it would cost a fortune.
call MazdaTrix, i know that they can be jackasses sometimes, but see what they say. all in all, your probabley going to HAVE to replace the Eshaft.

RETed

Is the motor already apart?
If so, replace the e-shaft with a good, used unit.
Used ones are plentiful, and they are cheap.

If the motor is still together, it's a tough call.
Personally, I would still tear it down and replace it.
BTW, if you do find a metric thread die that large, I think it would cost more than a replacment e-shaft itself!


-Ted

socalrotor

iTrader: (1)

Thanks ted, The motor is in the car still. It runs great with great Comp numbers. Guess I am screwed. I will be trying to clean up the threads a bit and try a new nut. I guess I can't make it any worst at this point. I just bought a t2 and this is the last thing I needed on my DD.

yozsi

id go at the threads with a die then a file, i would also get a new nut. its the taper that keeps the flywheel on, if you can torque it to spec then it will work fine.

RotaMan99

I don't know about anyone else, but if the threads were screwed on my e-shaft for the flywheel, I would wait before running it again. Trying to clean up the threads and put another nut on may be the worst for your legs!

You don't want the flywheel coming off and cutting your legs off! Considering the clutch and pp are also bolted to the flywheel, I see a very bad thing possibly happening.

socalrotor

iTrader: (1)

That is my thinking, the threads closest to the motor IE the ones that would hold the torque, might be ok, I will see, and take pics today.

pistones

iTrader: (5)

were the threads damaged before or after you used the gun on it? just asking. from my experience the gun can damage a fastener that was in good shape, tightened without cross threading.

socalrotor

iTrader: (1)

The threads that were exsposed were screwed before I started. I got a new nut on, and torqued it to 600 pounds with some red locktite. BUT I canet get my t2 trans to mate up with the na block. I need to see it the clutch disk is facing the right way. I am using all t2 stuff so I thought it would be a simple swap. DAMNIT!!!!!

veedubbed

I would just try and make it work. If it doesn't, then resort to pulling the motor and putting a new shaft in. It can't hurt anything to try cutting new threads and throwing on a new nut. Who knows..... it could last just fine for the next 150,000 miles.

AcidAngel7477

iTrader: (16)

i dont know dude..i wouldent do it. even if it is your DD..what are you going to do when that **** fails? i for one dont want to hear the end results. do it right and save yourself a BIG headache in the long run.

:AA:

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

Agreed. Be forward yet courteous with mazdatrix that someone there screwed up and that they should help make things right. God help you if they won't, because that would really suck.

RotaMan99

^ Its probubly to late now that he removed the nut and put it back on. This would be a good chance for mazdatrix to say, nope it was your fault. Unless he doesn't tell them he removed the nut and put it back on.

alexdimen

iTrader: (13)

Dude... you tightened a fucked up fastener (that happens to be very important) to TWICE THE RECOMMENDED TORQUE!!!

Mazda FSM recommends 290- 360 LB*FT!

Japan2LA

iTrader: (256)

Same thing I was thinking..

FSM says Max 350lbs.. You have a Torque wrench that goes all the way up to 600ft lbs?

Phantomkid

you stated your using all t2 stuff on a na enigine??? is that why you had to remove the flywheel? i was just wondering why you had to take off the flywheel, where you resurfacing it. anyway i think to use the t2 stuff on the na you have to use the t2 flywheel, and starter because the na flywheel wont work with the t2 drive train maybe im not positive thought i heard something like that my t2 is running the na drivetrain right now with the na flywheel

Mankdrake 2661

iTrader: (8)

Over torquing is bad.
Also "...using all t2 stuff..." you need a t2 flywheel and counterweight.

socalrotor

iTrader: (1)

So I got it all togther and it seems fine so far. FYI, It a NA block with a t2 fly, starter, trans and mount. I used a IR 2135 ti( Max. Torque (Forward) 625 ft.-lbs./848 Nm)to tighten the nut till it wouldnt stop on full power. I got the tranny in and mounted now all I need is the MT driveshaft, I decited to save the t2 diff as a spare on my other car(t2). I know if it comes loose it is time for a motor, so I guess I better get the t2 running as a DD backup. I hate doing things this way (the wrong way) but I am up to 3 rx7's( 87 sport, 88 gtu, 88 t2) and I needed the GTU running at all costs.