Madrx7racer

Well as some might know I did a full TII swap into an 89 GTUs.......everything is running(not as well as I'd like) but I have one question. As you know the NA cluster has an 8K redline and the TII cluster has a 7K redline. Well, I kept the NA cluster with my TII motor and I have not thought twice about it until Recently when I caught myself shifting at the buzzer but I looked and it was BUZZING at 8K(NOT 7K LIKE THE REDLINE IN THE TII)....well my question is: have I been damaging the engine(30K on Mazda Reman) by shifting at 8K?


Should I replace it with a TII cluster or leave it (kinda nice to have a batt. gauge)

dag

While it's not great to rev a stock engine to 8k if your car is still running a ok you're fine. Just keep an eye on that tach rather than rely on the buzzer.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

What the hell would you shift that high for anyway?

Madrx7racer

I have shifted at the buzzer when the motor was in my TII so I am used to shifting at the buzzer but the NA tach redlines at 8K instead of 7K

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

That still doesn't explain why you'd run it that high, considering there's not much point. :/

Madrx7racer

it sneaks up on me........lol.....I focus on the road and i hear BUZZZZZZZ so I shift......

NZConvertible

Damage is relative. Have you been doing more damage shifting higher than you should be? Yes. Are you making any more power up there than you were before? No. So is there any point to revving that high? Nope...

That's entirely up to you. If a voltmeter is more valuable to you than a shift buzzer, and you think you can shift when you're supposed to without the buzzer, then keep it.

totallimmortal

there is a way to adjust the buzzer right? i think icemark or aaron cake mentioned it before it's in the FSM i think, i say keep the NA cluster and fix the buzzer since you use it, i don'tr really mind mine

Icemark

actually yes there is a way to adjust the buzzer, but it is not in the factory manual. I posted it before, but basiclly you need to access the back of the tach (which requires removing the tach from the gauge cluster, and turning down the buzzer rpm sender adjustment.

There are two adjustable pots on the back of the tachs, a plastic one and a metal one. You want to adjust the metal one down about 1/4 to 1/2 turn. DO NOT TOUCH THE PLASTIC ONE as it adjusts the calibration of the whole tach assembly.

therotaryrocket

I think it's pretty fun I have shifted my old 12a when it was already past 8000rpms, I like the spinning into the following gear. But it doesn't seem as fun in my turbo II because it kinda wheezes out past 7k rpms, I need some performance parts.

NZConvertible

Some people like lots of noise, some like to go fast...