Safe RPMs
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Safe RPMs
I have an 87 NA
The car beeps right before 7 grand.
I know RX-7 are higher reving but what is a good limit before 7gs after 7gs like it doesnt matter?
When im driving normally i heard i should keep it in a little bit higher rpm range.
What is this range?
Does it actually need to be driven a little harder?
Thanks
The car beeps right before 7 grand.
I know RX-7 are higher reving but what is a good limit before 7gs after 7gs like it doesnt matter?
When im driving normally i heard i should keep it in a little bit higher rpm range.
What is this range?
Does it actually need to be driven a little harder?
Thanks
#4
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Are you running the stock ECU?  The ECU has a rev limited built into it, so you're going to be bouncing off of it anyways.
Why do you want to rev so high?  The engine makes less power after 6kRPM, so why unnecessarily stress the engine with little or no gain?
The who engine (and auxiliaries) were designed to handle very brief amounts of runs up to redline.  If you're constantly revving to redline, you're going to blow up one of the auxiliaries.  Do you like replacing parts?
-Ted
Why do you want to rev so high?  The engine makes less power after 6kRPM, so why unnecessarily stress the engine with little or no gain?
The who engine (and auxiliaries) were designed to handle very brief amounts of runs up to redline.  If you're constantly revving to redline, you're going to blow up one of the auxiliaries.  Do you like replacing parts?
-Ted
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they dont have revlimiters until 89
mike
mike
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ive pegged the tach both on my 86 base and the 88 t2. my 84 gsl would stop revving about 3 seconds after the tach stopped moving it wouldn't go any faster
mike
mike
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#8
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Who cares about the engine. If you over-rev the engine and it blows, it doesn't take out the clutch, bellhousing, starter moter, rear engine plate, brake system and bonnet like the stock flywheel will if you over-rev it...
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Originally posted by NZConvertible
Who cares about the engine. If you over-rev the engine and it blows, it doesn't take out the clutch, bellhousing, starter moter, rear engine plate, brake system and bonnet like the stock flywheel will if you over-rev it...
Who cares about the engine. If you over-rev the engine and it blows, it doesn't take out the clutch, bellhousing, starter moter, rear engine plate, brake system and bonnet like the stock flywheel will if you over-rev it...
mike
#11
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Originally posted by j9fd3s
ive pegged the tach both on my 86 base and the 88 t2. my 84 gsl would stop revving about 3 seconds after the tach stopped moving it wouldn't go any faster
mike
ive pegged the tach both on my 86 base and the 88 t2. my 84 gsl would stop revving about 3 seconds after the tach stopped moving it wouldn't go any faster
mike
#15
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Originally posted by j9fd3s
ive pegged the tach both on my 86 base and the 88 t2.
ive pegged the tach both on my 86 base and the 88 t2.
-Ted
#16
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I have an 86 with an 87 NA engine and there hasn't been anything to suggest that there's a rev limiter (Mr. Layman Guy here.) And my ECU was given a once-over less than a year ago, so if this is due to a malfunction, it isn't there...
And if the rev buzzer uses that little buzzer built into the dash circuit board, I don't hear it cuz I yanked the ******' thing (it was buzzing all the time when I first got my 7 cuz the light switch was *starting* to fail - drove me crazy - fixed the light switch, stored the buzzer.)
And if the rev buzzer uses that little buzzer built into the dash circuit board, I don't hear it cuz I yanked the ******' thing (it was buzzing all the time when I first got my 7 cuz the light switch was *starting* to fail - drove me crazy - fixed the light switch, stored the buzzer.)
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So if i have no more after 6000 rpm is that what i should shift at if im racing or should i let it go till 7000 to stay in higher rpms next gear?
Plus im just talking about regular driving on my way to work should i be at higher rpms cause its a rotor engine and i heard they run like **** if you dont run them kind of hard. So if im just on my way to work should i be shifting at like4-5000 or 2 to 3000
Plus im just talking about regular driving on my way to work should i be at higher rpms cause its a rotor engine and i heard they run like **** if you dont run them kind of hard. So if im just on my way to work should i be shifting at like4-5000 or 2 to 3000
#19
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Originally posted by DCmina
I shift at 3000 on regular driving, and redline it once in a while.
I shift at 3000 on regular driving, and redline it once in a while.
4-5K min even if being easy on it. Take her to the buzzer if your in a hurry. Mine too is a daily driver. For 8 years.
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Originally posted by RETed
Sure, I pegged my tach too when the throttle cable got stuck.  Does that mean there's no rev limiter?  If there wasn't, >8kRPM would easily spun a bearing.  I tore down the engine 10k after that incident with no signs of bearing trauma.  The revs did bounce off 8kRPM briefly for the time I froze fumbling for the ignition switch.  This just proves to me my car has a rev limited built into the ECU.
-Ted
Sure, I pegged my tach too when the throttle cable got stuck.  Does that mean there's no rev limiter?  If there wasn't, >8kRPM would easily spun a bearing.  I tore down the engine 10k after that incident with no signs of bearing trauma.  The revs did bounce off 8kRPM briefly for the time I froze fumbling for the ignition switch.  This just proves to me my car has a rev limited built into the ECU.
-Ted
mike
Last edited by j9fd3s; 06-25-02 at 01:13 PM.
#24
Opinions are like........
My '91 hits a brick wall at 8500rpm.
My friends '87 quits at (i think) ~7700rpm. I haven't driven it in a while. Sometimes I wonder about the optimistic Mazda tachometer accuracy at higher RPM's.
And, both cars are extremely noticeable when the engine quits revving. Must be the rev limiter. Seems to kick in ~500rpm after redline. The(my) buzzer should be replaced with a voice chip--"Shift up idiot!". Stock and mildly modded rotaries don't need all that RPM. My '91 feels quickest when shifting at ~7200rpm.
When MDrace used to sell chips, they had different stage chips with different raised rev limits. Its funny that their website is down now that I have some money. Woe is me Anyone know their contact number or if they still are chipping ECUs?
My friends '87 quits at (i think) ~7700rpm. I haven't driven it in a while. Sometimes I wonder about the optimistic Mazda tachometer accuracy at higher RPM's.
And, both cars are extremely noticeable when the engine quits revving. Must be the rev limiter. Seems to kick in ~500rpm after redline. The(my) buzzer should be replaced with a voice chip--"Shift up idiot!". Stock and mildly modded rotaries don't need all that RPM. My '91 feels quickest when shifting at ~7200rpm.
When MDrace used to sell chips, they had different stage chips with different raised rev limits. Its funny that their website is down now that I have some money. Woe is me Anyone know their contact number or if they still are chipping ECUs?
#25
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I had my throttle stick once too, fortunately it was in neutral! What a helacious bapbapbapbapbap off the rev limiter, with many backfires also till I ran back into the car and turned it off. Scarey!
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