hondahater

iTrader: (2)

I've been reading alot of posts thats talking about safc's causing hesitations so I descided to mess around and in doing so I found something. The tps sensor on the car after warmed up only shows .775 volts so I went ahead and changed the tps however no matter witch way I turn the screw the .775 volt reading stays the same???? Why would this happen??? Thanks. OH anyone else have issues with the safc causing hesitation under boost at wot please post what you did to correct the problems. My settings:

flap 05____05
4cly arrow pointing top right
I haven't leaned out anything yet
I have the throttle point set to 1% and 50% however after searching I found most people with s4's put it to 98% and 99%

Anything else I should check for? Also I went ahead and initialized it and then set it back up then went to sensor check and took my cone filter off and pushed the flaper all the way in while the key was in at the on possistion. I read this teaches the safc what is the cars 100% throttle possision is. Thanks for any help!

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

nevermind on the not going to 1volt thing I just got it there and will test drive it after a bit. Thanks. Anyone with safc hesitation stories let them rip

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

just got back from test driving it and still the hesitation was around 4,500rpm so I'm going to initialize it and keep it in initialize mode to see if this may clear things up if so then I will go from there.

gsracer

Sounds like your TPS is dead.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

well I just got it to 1volt perfectly! I mean just hums right at one volt and then when sweep the peddle it goes up to 4.4 to 4.5 volts. Isn't this correct???

gsracer

I've always used resistance in ohms to adjust the TPS as per Teds site

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/TPS/tps.html

Slowly open and close the throttle and look for huge jumps in the resistance. My old Tps was set to 1k at idle, and 5k when the plunger was at full travel. However, a couple spots between the resistance would jump to infinity, the result was violent hesitations.

WAYNE88N/A

Honda Dude- your TPS is good, quit messing with it, lol...1 to 4.5 volts is good, as long as no meter "hiccups" occur while slowly pushing the pedal down with the key on (you ARE doing this at the ECU, right, lol)...Does your SAFC have good grounds?

RETed

Actually, Mazda specs a 0.900V or 0.950V reading off the TPS?
Try adjusting down a little...



-Ted

WAYNE88N/A

For which cars, Ted? My FSM says "approx 1 volt", and I know I've read somewhere that there's a +/- .1 volt tolerance. Plus I know through trial and error my car runs better at 1v and 1.1v than it does at .9v

Really a moot point to be having a "civil discussion" about .1v- a weak ground can negate that...

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

ok I'll adjust down a tad and see what happens however when the safc was reading .775 volts it was doing the same exact thing that it was right at 1volt so I don't know if it will help I think wayne has it right by saying my tps is good and quit messing with it! Anyways yes wayne my safc has a ground right where both of them should so I think this is ok however I think something is wrong with my boost controller or secondaries (witch yes when I have time I'm going to test them out at the ecu) What happens is when I have my boost sensor plugged in my hesitation is right at 3,500rpm but when disconnected it happens exactly at 4,500. Not having the boost controller in would this make the secondaries fire at all times or would it make it come on later???? Just wondering thanks!