rotor_veux

iTrader: (3)

Hello, iv'e been looking for a part or even it's name I was always calling it a Cast water pump housing, as thats the part the pump bolts onto, which internally bolts onto the Front iron.



Sadlly, This was the only picture I could even find for a S5 cast housing.

Anyone got an Idea where I could find one? or even the neck? but knowing the nature of things, Id find it cheaper to buy the whole shabang. Even though my cracked housing needs a replacement after the failed tapp for a larger sensor...
My bad, I could have gotten away with a 1/4 over 5/8ths LOL haltech you funny.

Or Is their any "Upgrades"? that could be done for ease? Im only aware of the FD neck for any form of upgrade listed...

bumpstart

haltech plugs into the stock water temp sender .. delco curve is delco curve .. dont understand why you would need to tap anything

not sure either what you are asking for.. do you need the water pump housing.. or do you need the three bolt thermoneck ? .. pretty sure someone turns them out in alum

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

cvcruiser was most likely tapping the pump housing for a 3/8" NPT GM sensor as Aaron Cake did for the 76 Cosmo. Most Standalones, including the Haltech, can use the stock sensor without any issues. However, it leaves you looking for a mating connector which might be slightly annoying. I currently don't have the manufacturer of this connector, but I believe that Mazdatrix offers them.
Info here: MAZDATRIX for Mazda RX7, RX8, Rotary Engine Parts and Accessories

What I did for my 20B conversion was use a LS2 Corvette Coolant Temperature Sensor. Same M12x1.5 thread pitch as the stock Mazda sensors, but you can get the sensor and pigtail at any Autozone or from Rock Auto. It is also scaled the same as the 3/8" NPT version that Haltech offers

If you need a S5 water pump housing, look in the 2nd Generation Classifieds section. As for the upper hose neck, Mazdatrix offers an aluminum version here:
Radiators, Caps, Water Level Sensor

rotor_veux

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the replys, you been very akagis white comet, but for bumpstart.... I don't speak bumpstarts language(<Joke>) or mine is TERRIBLE. The thermoneck < Mazdatrix... Go for that.
The other part would be the housing but not for the pully but for both the neck and the pully to bolt onto.... And im not talking about the frount rotor housing.... the what this part goes onto.

Trying to figure out the name

As for the sensor... I will invest in a new haltech *Modern, Smaller size thread*, I was told it is better and more reliable to run a line to the more *stronger?* 3/8ths? as more surface area = more accurate reading? IDFN?

Back to the Concuslion? So the S5 water pump housing is large cast the pully and neck bolt onto? which is what I tapped for my sensor as it split? and my only options are to buy it off a dealer? or used? For my JDM s5? same as USDM S5 waterpump...

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

This is called the Water Pump Housing. There are usually a few for sale in the neighborhood of ~$40 in the Classifieds section at any given time. Do a search for "S5 Water Pump" and you'll get results. I am not aware of any differences between JDM and USDM housings offhand, but you can't really go wrong with a USDM part. Depending on what is available, you may also find a Mazdatrix aluminum neck on the cheap too. Worth looking anyway.

Save yourself the work of trying to re-tap the hole for 3/8" NPT and just get the LS2 Corvette Sensor instead. It's the same amount of wiring work to splice in the proper connector, but threads into the stock M12x1.5 hole with zero fuss. Not trying to dissuade you, I just know that it would really suck to have a second pump housing crack while attempting to tap it for threads when the original ones will suffice. I paid $8 for mine at the local Advance Auto Parts.

Every Coolant Temperature Sensor has two wires, one for ground and one for signal. The ECU compares the resistance between these two via its calibration information to determine coolant temperature. On my 20B FC, all of the engine-related ground wires meet at a dedicated bus bar, linked to the main underhood chassis ground with a 4awg cable so it has a solid connection no matter what. Also serves as the Negative Jumpstart Point too

bumpstart

23 yrs mazda japlish speak perfect .. Hmmm

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

C Ludwig sells sensors for Haltech that fit in the threaded hole at the back of the Waterpump.
I got a PS1000 setup,premade plug and play harness and all sensors from this guy.

rotor_veux

iTrader: (3)

So we it pretty well goes down to buying new from mazda dealership for 300 rough in my hands.

Or the best case I believe, would be buying the S5 housing for a turbo 2 which is all the same JDM spec or not, from what I can tell everysingle one bolts on the same as my S5 JDM machined cut outs are the same on a USDM S5 turbo.... Unless the housing is cracked 99% chance it won't be... Used will do just right.(Will get that aluminum neck, can't complain about that.)

As for the sensors (Ludwig) or in my case I might as well just extend my haltech bill.
Still need TPS, and BAC sensor.

Well I geuss ill be the *one* to figure it out, but 99% chance it's same pile o turds.

I'll update if I find a difference, lol Can't say that but I can say RHD crossmember is roughly CM off.(bent frame add 3inches.)