S5 NA to turbo conversion/buildup, $15k
03-12-07 | 06:55 PM
#27
Nice project. That Harbor blue is by far my favorite color on any car ever made. Your base car was a mirror image of my N/A before i wrecked it. Now im stuck with a blaze red car. :p
An interesting thing occured to me reading this post, Kevin is about one of the only other people on any 2nd gen forums to fully and honestly disclose the true cost of his projects. Everyone else in the 2nd gen world either grossly under states or just flat out ignores the money they spend. Exageration about how little they spend seems to be the thing in the FC comunity. It's funny, FC owners like to brag about how little they spend then they list all the stuff they've done and its like a big ROFL because its like saying they got a lexus for 14k off the dealer lot. All you wann say is RIIIIIIGGGGHTT
The 3rd gen guys seem to be the oposite they overstate how much they spend (especially when they sell the car) lol...
An interesting thing occured to me reading this post, Kevin is about one of the only other people on any 2nd gen forums to fully and honestly disclose the true cost of his projects. Everyone else in the 2nd gen world either grossly under states or just flat out ignores the money they spend. Exageration about how little they spend seems to be the thing in the FC comunity. It's funny, FC owners like to brag about how little they spend then they list all the stuff they've done and its like a big ROFL because its like saying they got a lexus for 14k off the dealer lot. All you wann say is RIIIIIIGGGGHTT
The 3rd gen guys seem to be the oposite they overstate how much they spend (especially when they sell the car) lol...
03-12-07 | 07:10 PM
#29
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From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
Due to the number of pm's and questions Im getting about the exhaust, I'll post it again here:
The exhaust is a GREDDY POWER EXTREME DUAL CATBACK. It is no longer available from what I understand. I picked this one up used off ebay.
For now, I have the stock n370 for breakin, and also have the HKS FCON and GCC. I will probably get a wideband and run it a while on the stock ecu to observe stock fuel output, and then when I run the FCON I will note what changes it makes and whether or not it is safe. Depending on what I find, I may sell the FCON and go to the power FC setup.
The exhaust is a GREDDY POWER EXTREME DUAL CATBACK. It is no longer available from what I understand. I picked this one up used off ebay.
For now, I have the stock n370 for breakin, and also have the HKS FCON and GCC. I will probably get a wideband and run it a while on the stock ecu to observe stock fuel output, and then when I run the FCON I will note what changes it makes and whether or not it is safe. Depending on what I find, I may sell the FCON and go to the power FC setup.
03-12-07 | 09:14 PM
#31
Do you have any pointers/guidelines as far as 'scalloping' rotors like you've done? I'm prepping for my next engine build and have always been curious as to placement, length, width et cetera. Thanks much.
03-12-07 | 09:18 PM
#32
NA-BOOSTIN
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,200
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From: austin,tx
great job and you made me decide that i do want to get stock sides and rear caps it will match my bwave front since it sets as low as the stock t2 lip may shave that rear 3rd light now. i just wonder how it will look in a Jade Green Metallic
03-12-07 | 11:18 PM
#33
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From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
Originally Posted by dguy
Do you have any pointers/guidelines as far as 'scalloping' rotors like you've done? I'm prepping for my next engine build and have always been curious as to placement, length, width et cetera. Thanks much.
Now on the side of the rotor, you want to scribe a line 1mm above the side seal groove. ON the face of the rotor you can actually go a significant distance toward the center, but I usually limit myself to about 1 inch from the stock edge. Then just take a sand roll or fine stone on a die grinder and have at it.
Repeat for rear rotor.
03-13-07 | 12:11 AM
#34
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
It depends on the intake ports you're running. Put the stat gear in the front iron after your port is done, then the rotor and shaft in place (in time of course). Mark on the rotor both edges of the intake port as the rotor closes the port. Now slide on 2 dowelpins and the INT iron (no rotorhousing), and repeat for the primary ports. THIS IS NOW YOUR DEDICATED FRONT ROTOR, as reversing it would make your cuts useless.
Now on the side of the rotor, you want to scribe a line 1mm above the side seal groove. ON the face of the rotor you can actually go a significant distance toward the center, but I usually limit myself to about 1 inch from the stock edge. Then just take a sand roll or fine stone on a die grinder and have at it.
Repeat for rear rotor.
Now on the side of the rotor, you want to scribe a line 1mm above the side seal groove. ON the face of the rotor you can actually go a significant distance toward the center, but I usually limit myself to about 1 inch from the stock edge. Then just take a sand roll or fine stone on a die grinder and have at it.
Repeat for rear rotor.
03-13-07 | 05:27 AM
#38
pistons go home!
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 277
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From: switzerland
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
It depends on the intake ports you're running. Put the stat gear in the front iron after your port is done, then the rotor and shaft in place (in time of course). Mark on the rotor both edges of the intake port as the rotor closes the port. Now slide on 2 dowelpins and the INT iron (no rotorhousing), and repeat for the primary ports. THIS IS NOW YOUR DEDICATED FRONT ROTOR, as reversing it would make your cuts useless.
Now on the side of the rotor, you want to scribe a line 1mm above the side seal groove. ON the face of the rotor you can actually go a significant distance toward the center, but I usually limit myself to about 1 inch from the stock edge. Then just take a sand roll or fine stone on a die grinder and have at it.
Repeat for rear rotor.
Now on the side of the rotor, you want to scribe a line 1mm above the side seal groove. ON the face of the rotor you can actually go a significant distance toward the center, but I usually limit myself to about 1 inch from the stock edge. Then just take a sand roll or fine stone on a die grinder and have at it.
Repeat for rear rotor.
03-13-07 | 12:29 PM
#41
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From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
Well, there's a story behind that. I originally had a simple TID rigged up and planned to use the HKS megaflow filter I had. BUt due to the way the FMIC pipes run, I could find no way to make any of it fit without looking retarded and having the filter face backwards or something.
I took it for a test drive with no filter, just to be sure there were no mechanical problems. It was then that I noticed that everytime I'd be cruising at a steady speed and let off the throttle slightly, the car would buck and surge for 1-2 seconds. If I shifted under heavier load/boost, it wouldn't do so. I reasoned that this was compressor surge, and the pressure wave was actually causing the AFM plunger to close for a second, depriving the engine of fuel and making it buck.
I've had this issue before on EVERY fc that I've put an FMIC and aftermarket BOV on before while using the stock EFI/AFM. Don't ask me why, I have seen plenty of guys run them and they don't say anything about having this type of surge problem. Maybe they don't know they have the problem, or maybe they actually don't.
Anyway, the HKS bov I have doesnt even have an adjustment...it just is what it is. So I had to figure a way to make the car smoother, as this bucking was unacceptable to me.
So I reintegrated the stock BOV back into the system...the HKS piping has a provision for it as well, which I had previously capped off. OF course, you can't run the stock BOV open-air without it being a vacuum leak, so I had to plumb it back into the TID. There's not a good way to do this on a custom/straight TID, so I just went back to the stocker for the time being.
The FMIC kit that I bought already had the bung for the HKS BOV welded on, so I basically had to buy one of those and run it whether I liked it or not. Welding the hole in the pipe back up would never have looked (or flowed) right as they have to put patches inside the pipe to support the welds and they are never as rounded as the pipe itself. IF the flange were not already there, I would have been sufficient to run the stock BOV and call it a day.
I still have to figure out something for an air filter. FOr now I have not really been driving it.
I took it for a test drive with no filter, just to be sure there were no mechanical problems. It was then that I noticed that everytime I'd be cruising at a steady speed and let off the throttle slightly, the car would buck and surge for 1-2 seconds. If I shifted under heavier load/boost, it wouldn't do so. I reasoned that this was compressor surge, and the pressure wave was actually causing the AFM plunger to close for a second, depriving the engine of fuel and making it buck.
I've had this issue before on EVERY fc that I've put an FMIC and aftermarket BOV on before while using the stock EFI/AFM. Don't ask me why, I have seen plenty of guys run them and they don't say anything about having this type of surge problem. Maybe they don't know they have the problem, or maybe they actually don't.
Anyway, the HKS bov I have doesnt even have an adjustment...it just is what it is. So I had to figure a way to make the car smoother, as this bucking was unacceptable to me.
So I reintegrated the stock BOV back into the system...the HKS piping has a provision for it as well, which I had previously capped off. OF course, you can't run the stock BOV open-air without it being a vacuum leak, so I had to plumb it back into the TID. There's not a good way to do this on a custom/straight TID, so I just went back to the stocker for the time being.
The FMIC kit that I bought already had the bung for the HKS BOV welded on, so I basically had to buy one of those and run it whether I liked it or not. Welding the hole in the pipe back up would never have looked (or flowed) right as they have to put patches inside the pipe to support the welds and they are never as rounded as the pipe itself. IF the flange were not already there, I would have been sufficient to run the stock BOV and call it a day.
I still have to figure out something for an air filter. FOr now I have not really been driving it.
03-13-07 | 03:56 PM
#42
Lovin my 7
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Lakeland, FL
Makes sense, for all practical purposes I think the ribbed intake would really have more of an adverse affect on a NA, because when dealing with forced induction a few little ribs probably won't hurt much. Thanks for the explanation.
03-13-07 | 11:41 PM
#48
I'm a boost creep...
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 15,608
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From: Auckland, New Zealand
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection...
you can't run the stock BOV open-air without it being a vacuum leak, so I had to plumb it back into the TID. There's not a good way to do this on a custom/straight TID
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...hmentid=128256
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...hmentid=128257
Originally Posted by cpubugs
...I think the ribbed intake would really have more of an adverse affect on a NA, because when dealing with forced induction a few little ribs probably won't hurt much.
