tie pilot

Which one of these connectors should I check for voltage at 3800 rpm?



thank you.

johnnyg

Brown.

Black91n/a

That's right, the brown one, on the top, at the front. My aux ports weren't opening when I first had the car, after alot of investigating I figured out that the ECU wasn't sending the signal to the solenoid, so I got a Summit Racing RPM switch and wired it in that way and it was fine. To check it the easiest way is to plumb a carburator fuel pressure guage into the line to see if the actuators are getting pressure, if not, figure out why.

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

that solenoid is only gonna let out a signal if there is a load on the engine. correct me if i'm wrong.

andrew lohaus

yeah its the brown one and the vdi is the white one. still having 6-port issues or are you wirring up an electric pump?

tie pilot

Andrew,

yes I finally fixed my aux ports! lol. had to go down to the lim to get 'em. that was a new experience for me.

but now I am suspecting that the actuators aren't getting the air they need. I bypassed the solenoid and saw that they do open when air is applied, so the mechanical parts are working fine (thank god).

I got +12V from the black wire on the brown connector (right side of the plug in my pic), but I understand now that the other wire is the switched side, and it receives ground at the magic rpm. so, I will need to check that the other side is actually getting grounded when it should.

thanks all.

Black91n/a

You should also check that the solenoid is functionning properly by removing it, blowing on the supply nipple, then supplying it with 12V and doing it again, this will show you if the air is being re-directed with the supplied power. If you see that the solenoid is funtional, chances are that the CPU isn't sending the signal, or there's a bad wire somewhere in between.

tie pilot

well sonofabitch:

I tested the solenoid (as Black91n/a said) and it is fine.

turns out the brown connector is NOT being grounded at 3800 RPM (or at any time for that matter). I tested the white connector (for VDI) and it lights up right at 5500 RPM every time just like it oughta.

sooo... it looks like RPM switches from NX, NOS, and MSD are going for well over $100. I'm not sure what I'm gonna do. for the time being I have the air which usually goes into the solenoid going straight to the aux actuators instead, so they pretty much open during any acceleration. at least they will stay loose this way. I really don't want them to seize up again. If anyone knows where to get a cheaper RPM switch, let me know!

andrew lohaus

i remeber seeing a thread about making your own rpm switch, but i couldnt rell you what all it involves. if you dont like the loss of low end with the solenoid bypassed, you could splice the aux prots onto the vdi line so everything opens at 5500. now that would be a kick in the pants.

Black91n/a

I used an RPM switch from Summit Racing (Summit part # SUM-830449), and at $45 it's a bargain for what you get. It's fully adjustable without using pills, so that cost isn't there, and you can set it precisely where you want. I installed it under the dash, I zap strapped it on top of the footwell air duct. You can use the AAS power supply for the switched 12V source and there's a bullet connector on the leading coil that can supply the RPM signal you'll need. I'd highly recommend using this one, it's a quality piece, it's adjustable and it's cheap.

tie pilot

awesome! you are deh man