S4 turn signal switch into S5
#1
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not a drifter
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S4 turn signal switch into S5
I am looking for a little assistance with figuring out how to repin the S5 turn signal switch harness to work with an S4 switch. I have found the following:
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...18&postcount=3
and
My S5 harness connector is pinned like this:
X B [ ] B/R G/Y
G/W X R/G R/W G/R R/Y
Going by Icemark's post, I have a few issues figuring this out. My connector has two open connections, his post only mentions one. I am mainly trying to figure out what to do with the R/W and R/Y wires but would like to go over all of them just to make sure.
Also, my wire colors dont match what is in the FSM but all is functioning properly with S5 switches. (I dont have a S5 gauge cluster surround but do have a mint s4 one. That is why I am wanting to use the S4 switch as it fits in my surround.)
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...18&postcount=3
and
My S5 harness connector is pinned like this:
X B [ ] B/R G/Y
G/W X R/G R/W G/R R/Y
Going by Icemark's post, I have a few issues figuring this out. My connector has two open connections, his post only mentions one. I am mainly trying to figure out what to do with the R/W and R/Y wires but would like to go over all of them just to make sure.
Also, my wire colors dont match what is in the FSM but all is functioning properly with S5 switches. (I dont have a S5 gauge cluster surround but do have a mint s4 one. That is why I am wanting to use the S4 switch as it fits in my surround.)
#4
had that backwards, i don't believe there is any issue mounting the S5 switch to a S4 surround. the hood is basically identical between S4 and S5.
point i'm trying to make is it may just cause a headache later on, something i had to deal with recently with a S5 hood/switches into an S4, got a few grey hairs figuring out why none of the lights were working and the connectors are a direct plug in as well... though the circuits definitely not.
point i'm trying to make is it may just cause a headache later on, something i had to deal with recently with a S5 hood/switches into an S4, got a few grey hairs figuring out why none of the lights were working and the connectors are a direct plug in as well... though the circuits definitely not.
#6
Red/Yellow from CR-1 that normally comes from connector E-03 would connect or mate w/the White wire that leads to the Dimmer Relay.
On both the S4 and S5 the White wire from the Front harness mates w/the R/Y wire.
At the S4 switch there is a pin that would normally have voltage on it until you pull back on the dimmer lever and holding it in place and that places a ground on the pin. This pin connects to R/Y which connects to W. Now it depends on what position the lever is in. If the last time the lever was pulled back and it placed a ground on the pin then pulling it back once again would remove the ground. On the otherhand if the last time the lever was pulled back and it placed voltage on that pin then pulling on the lever again would place a ground on that pin. These are opposite of each other but it depends on the last time the lever being pulled back caused the pin that connects to R/Y caused.
On both the S4 and S5 the White wire from the Front harness mates w/the R/Y wire.
At the S4 switch there is a pin that would normally have voltage on it until you pull back on the dimmer lever and holding it in place and that places a ground on the pin. This pin connects to R/Y which connects to W. Now it depends on what position the lever is in. If the last time the lever was pulled back and it placed a ground on the pin then pulling it back once again would remove the ground. On the otherhand if the last time the lever was pulled back and it placed voltage on that pin then pulling on the lever again would place a ground on that pin. These are opposite of each other but it depends on the last time the lever being pulled back caused the pin that connects to R/Y caused.
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#9
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not a drifter
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From: Columbus, Ohio
Red/Yellow from CR-1 that normally comes from connector E-03 would connect or mate w/the White wire that leads to the Dimmer Relay.
On both the S4 and S5 the White wire from the Front harness mates w/the R/Y wire.
At the S4 switch there is a pin that would normally have voltage on it until you pull back on the dimmer lever and holding it in place and that places a ground on the pin. This pin connects to R/Y which connects to W. Now it depends on what position the lever is in. If the last time the lever was pulled back and it placed a ground on the pin then pulling it back once again would remove the ground. On the otherhand if the last time the lever was pulled back and it placed voltage on that pin then pulling on the lever again would place a ground on that pin. These are opposite of each other but it depends on the last time the lever being pulled back caused the pin that connects to R/Y caused.
On both the S4 and S5 the White wire from the Front harness mates w/the R/Y wire.
At the S4 switch there is a pin that would normally have voltage on it until you pull back on the dimmer lever and holding it in place and that places a ground on the pin. This pin connects to R/Y which connects to W. Now it depends on what position the lever is in. If the last time the lever was pulled back and it placed a ground on the pin then pulling it back once again would remove the ground. On the otherhand if the last time the lever was pulled back and it placed voltage on that pin then pulling on the lever again would place a ground on that pin. These are opposite of each other but it depends on the last time the lever being pulled back caused the pin that connects to R/Y caused.
#12
#17
While you're at it take your S4 switch and push the lever to one position and see which if any pins have continuity and then jot down the info for future reference. Change the lever position to the opposite mode and do the continuity test once again to garner some more information. Pull back on the lever and conduct another continuity test.
#19
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not a drifter
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From: Columbus, Ohio
While you're at it take your S4 switch and push the lever to one position and see which if any pins have continuity and then jot down the info for future reference. Change the lever position to the opposite mode and do the continuity test once again to garner some more information. Pull back on the lever and conduct another continuity test.
what does that have to do with anything?
#20
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not a drifter
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From: Columbus, Ohio
While you're at it take your S4 switch and push the lever to one position and see which if any pins have continuity and then jot down the info for future reference. Change the lever position to the opposite mode and do the continuity test once again to garner some more information. Pull back on the lever and conduct another continuity test.
#21
Absolutely not. When doing a continuity test the meter sends a signal through one meter lead so it can be detected by the other meter lead. This is something which can be done while sitting in a chair and watching television if need be. By doing this you will hopefully identify pins which are related to each other such as the pin that receives voltage that is then passed on to another pin when the switch is set to the R.H. position and so on.
#22
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not a drifter
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From: Columbus, Ohio
Absolutely not. When doing a continuity test the meter sends a signal through one meter lead so it can be detected by the other meter lead. This is something which can be done while sitting in a chair and watching television if need be. By doing this you will hopefully identify pins which are related to each other such as the pin that receives voltage that is then passed on to another pin when the switch is set to the R.H. position and so on.
#24
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not a drifter
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From: Columbus, Ohio
ok....the numbers are from looking at the back of the switch:
1 2 3 4 5 6
7 8 x x 9 10
with the switch in the up position there is continuity between pins:
2&5 2&7 2&8 2&10
3&5 3&8 3&10
5&10
7&8 7&10
doing the other two positions now...
1 2 3 4 5 6
7 8 x x 9 10
with the switch in the up position there is continuity between pins:
2&5 2&7 2&8 2&10
3&5 3&8 3&10
5&10
7&8 7&10
doing the other two positions now...