Ok I have done a search on the 3K warm up, and the only thing i really learned was that the S4, and S5 "3K AWS" is different. I could not find any idea on what parts i need to remove.

im wanting to remove my 3K AWS, when i remove the cold start bottle near the firewall. I also want to remove my emission's, but i do not want to sacrifice cold start's, idle, or driveability.

i allready have all of the parts i think i need to do all the work (silicone vac lines in multiple I.D.'s, high heat resistant vac nipples in various sizes, upper intake manifold gasket, banzai racing blockoff plate kit)

so my question is what needs to be done to remove the "3000RPM Accelerated Warm up"?

how does removing the EGR affect the engine when removed?
how does removing the BAC affect the engine when removed?
how does removing the ACV affect the engine when removed?

im somewhat new to working under the hood of my FC, im just trying to clarify things for myself before i start taking things apart this weekend.

is there any pictures floating around that show the location's of each emission component?

thanks for any, and all help.

 

I believe part of it is in the ecu. You can remove a part but it won't go away unless you start it in gear or get a different ecu...rtek is the cheapest.

 

yes, ive read that too, and a R-tek 1.7 is in my future.

but is there a mechanical part on the engine that i can remove?

starting the car in gear, with the handbrake down is not really a habbit i want to gain.

 

There is a mechanical part you can block off, it is on the inside of the UIM. When I did my emissions delete I took it off along with the rest. The blockoff plate is 10 bucks from http://www.2751engineering.com/2751parts.html, or you can buy the whole kit. Thats what I did. About keeping your idle and drivability, keep the BAC and thermowax in the throttle body. I took my thermowax out when I removed the secondary throttle plates and now you have to keep the rpms up until the engine warms up a little, or else it will stall. Doesn't really bother me much, but it would be annoying if I was expecting to just hop in and take off. The BAC is to bump the idle up when you turn on your AC.

There is a writeup for emissions removal here: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/emissions-equipment-what-you-can-remove-how-112251/

 

For the emissions removal, at least keep the BAC. If you remove it on a TII, you also remove your air adjust screw. The thermowax is also very helpful. I kept both on my engine, but chose to remove the coolant lines that run through the BAC. Instead, I have a hose running from the back of the water pump housing, underneath the UIM and up to the thermowax. It cleans things up a bit, and keeps all functionality.

For the AWS, this is how I understand it. There are 4 things involved: the BAC, the Air Bypass Solenoid, the ECU and the water temp switch on the radiator. At low temperatures (< 65*F), the switch is off, and the ECU will trigger the 3k RPM warmup. But when coolant temperature is higher (> 65*F), the switch will be on and the ECU won't increase the BAC duty cycle or open the bypass solenoid to boost idle speed. You should be able to disable the system by disconnecting the two wires that run to the temp switch & jumping them together. This will fool the ECU into thinking the coolant temp is always above 65*F. Now that being said, I've never tried this since I use an Rtek, but it's supposed to work from what I've read.

 

thanks for the help so far guy's.

 

What's wrong with starting the car in gear, with the handbrake up? Does that not defeat the S4 3K AWS?

 

What happens when your slave or master fails and your clutch pedal moves but the clutch itself doesnt and you start it in gear and bump whatever is infront of you.

To the op. Remove the AWS solenoid and the acv but leave the BAC and thermowax. Otherwise your idle will be crap

 

the bac doesnt need to be removed. if you do it will suck. trust me.

acv and egr can all be yanked.

also, if you dont want the 3k warmup, press the clutch, and start the car in gear.

 

In that case, instead of disabling the AWS, I'd fix the clutch hydraulics.

What's wrong with starting the car in gear, handbrake up in a properly working S4?

 

The only way that would happen is if your e-brake, and clutch hydraulics both failed. in which case you shouldn't be driving the car period.

even in the case that BOTH failed and i hit a car in front of me, i would much rather know it then in a <5 mph event than anywhere out on the road.

 

isnt the service brake instruction in your user manual??

 

Increased NOx emissions, but it is otherwise unnoticeable. S5 cars and all JDM cars don't even have NOx.

Loss of idle adjust screw on the valve. Idle will have to be adjusted by adjusting the throttle plates themselves. Loss of idle speed compensation on how starts, or from the use of power steering, A/C, or headlights.

The ACV is what directs air from the airpump to either

1) sometimes the cat/"split air pipe" This is to reduce NOx emissions and keep cat from overheating, but this isn't all that important and the Rx-8's don't even pump air straight to the cat.

2) Most of the time air flows to the exhaust ports to clean up the mixture before the O2 sensor reads it.

3) To the intake manifold to eliminate backfiring on deceleration

Without the ACV, you will have reduced cat life (and cat efficiency to pass emissions), increased backfiring, and a smelly exhaust. You will also be able to read the "true" idle AFR on a wideband because the airpump won't be cleaning it up.

 

illinois does not have emissions on cars made in 1994, and before.

thanks

 

Are there any effects from removing the air bypass solenoid valve? The FSM says: Function: Supplies bypass air into primary intake manifold. Remarks: Assist of BAC valve during cold condition.

 

air bypass solenoid valve is for accelerated warm up. Air supply valve is for power steering idle compensation. Air supply valve was in the series 3 GSL-SE and had the same function.