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s4 swap help

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Old 08-21-09, 04:23 PM
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vroooooom pushhhhhhhhhhhh

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s4 swap help

So i swapped a jdm s4 turbo II engine into my s4 turbo II chassis, Got every thing hooked up and now the car will bump over and try to start if i flick my fuel switch on and off, but wont run. I have replaced the tps, cas, injectors drained the fuel tank and tryed the deflood method 15 times the car is getting fuel and spark. I also have about 3-4 volts to the injectors at the ecu plug and im under the impression your supposed to have 12. My electrical stuff wigs out here and there my lights will just stop working for a secont and when i turn the blinker on ever thing else in the car will dim down with a full battery also my speedo just melted one day when i was cranking the car over . Any help would be appreciated thanks

video of whats going on

View My Video

speedo

http://tinypic.com/r/34j9ona/3
Old 08-21-09, 04:54 PM
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Top Down, Boost Up

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3-4 volts on the injectors is bad. It is supposed to be 12V. It sounds like you have 1 or more shorts somewhere in the car that you'll need to chase down.
Old 08-21-09, 05:15 PM
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Sure sounds like a short to me. I would not recommend you either try to start the car nor replace any more components until you get the short identifed and fixed.

Here's what I would try:

1. Remove negative battery cable.
2. Remove all the fuses, both underhood and the in-cabin fuse box
3. Make sure the battery is fully charged
4. Check the system voltage. It should be battery voltage (12-13 volts). If it is not the short is then either inside the battery (possible) or between the battery and the main fuse (which you have removed.)
5. Reconnect the neg cable. Check voltage. If ok, then...
6. Disconnect neg cable. Insert main fuse. Reconnect neg cable. Check voltage. If ok, then,
7. Repeat step six with each fuse, working downstream from the main fuse (you need a wiring diagram) until you find the circuit that draws down the system voltage. It contains the short.
8. Once you id the system, you can futher isolate the short by opening connectors between wiring harnesses, using a similar process, until you find the offending circuit.
Old 08-21-09, 05:29 PM
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HAILERS

 
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Just key to ON, engine OFF. Then turn the headlights on. Do they pop up and light up good?

Melted the speedo?????? no electrical of any kind to the speedometer, which makes me think your missing the Chassis ground. The chassis ground is located at the foot of the left front strut tower. It's a wire that branches off the battery negative cable as the negative cable heads for the long bolt on the starter (or any nearby transmission bolt). Kinda sounds like the starter etc are trying to find the path back to the batt neg terminal via the speedo cable instead of the chassis gnd at the foot of the left strut tower.

Did you use the stock harness on the engine. The one that came with the original car? or????
Old 08-21-09, 09:30 PM
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vroooooom pushhhhhhhhhhhh

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Yes they pop up and the lights are bright, But sometimes they come up really slow and dim but if you keep flipping the switch on and off they will come up properly

I think your right about the speedo ill check that out tomorrow

I used the original engine harness that came with the car

Thanks for you input



Originally Posted by HAILERS
Just key to ON, engine OFF. Then turn the headlights on. Do they pop up and light up good?

Melted the speedo?????? no electrical of any kind to the speedometer, which makes me think your missing the Chassis ground. The chassis ground is located at the foot of the left front strut tower. It's a wire that branches off the battery negative cable as the negative cable heads for the long bolt on the starter (or any nearby transmission bolt). Kinda sounds like the starter etc are trying to find the path back to the batt neg terminal via the speedo cable instead of the chassis gnd at the foot of the left strut tower.

Did you use the stock harness on the engine. The one that came with the original car? or????
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