s4 n/a - TII re-pin
03-28-12, 07:53 PM
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s4 n/a - TII re-pin
I'm trying to triple check myself before I hack up a harness on what needs to be cut/ lengthened on my n/a EM harness going onto a full TII swap. Everything is series 4.
My car has the knock box in place, and is also using the original twin-scroll turbo. That being said, do I still cut the p/s-knock box wire? Also, do I omit the Twin scroll solenoid as well?
When explaining, please keep in mind that all the other 'Idiot's Guides' to re-pinning the harness have left questions in my head. Please be as thorough as you can in your reposes.
Thanks in advance.
My car has the knock box in place, and is also using the original twin-scroll turbo. That being said, do I still cut the p/s-knock box wire? Also, do I omit the Twin scroll solenoid as well?
When explaining, please keep in mind that all the other 'Idiot's Guides' to re-pinning the harness have left questions in my head. Please be as thorough as you can in your reposes.
Thanks in advance.
03-28-12, 10:41 PM
#2
I'm trying to triple check myself before I hack up a harness on what needs to be cut/ lengthened on my n/a EM harness going onto a full TII swap. Everything is series 4.
My car has the knock box in place, and is also using the original twin-scroll turbo. That being said, do I still cut the p/s-knock box wire? Also, do I omit the Twin scroll solenoid as well?
When explaining, please keep in mind that all the other 'Idiot's Guides' to re-pinning the harness have left questions in my head. Please be as thorough as you can in your reposes.
Thanks in advance.
My car has the knock box in place, and is also using the original twin-scroll turbo. That being said, do I still cut the p/s-knock box wire? Also, do I omit the Twin scroll solenoid as well?
When explaining, please keep in mind that all the other 'Idiot's Guides' to re-pinning the harness have left questions in my head. Please be as thorough as you can in your reposes.
Thanks in advance.
I am planning on ordering in the Rtek 1.8 this week and sending off my unit to have it chipped, none the less whilst the ECU is out I am going to pull the dash and original harness for replacement with the S4 TII harness/MAF/and injector box thingy.
Picture of injector box thingy:
<a href="http://s1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii549/gadufresne/?action=view&current=NEWERNEWEST003.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii549/gadufresne/NEWERNEWEST003.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii549/gadufresne/?action=view&current=NEWERNEWEST004.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii549/gadufresne/NEWERNEWEST004.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
It is one of those two lol, I can be honest and tell you I am not sure which one, just glad I have it.
03-29-12, 12:42 AM
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I appreciate the reply. I have a feeling that you're running into the high/low impedence problem with your injectors. As far as I know, I'm good to go. Thanks for the pictures though, just in case I need to go searching for the part :P
03-29-12, 12:09 PM
#4
DUDE Harness heartache I share with you. I have everything cleaned up and prepped on my garage floor ready to go in for boost and can't even do it because the harness isn't correct. I talked to the local 7 guru and he told me that if I switch the ECU/Harness I have to follow it with the MAF and some part they changed in 87-88 that is basically a resistor solenoid for the injectors <-- SECOND HAND DESCRIPTION. Regardless of how poorly I may have worded that I know there is another part besides ECU/Harness/MAF that you have to do. He told me that he did an entire rebuild once forgot to replace that one obscure part that dealt with the injectors and the ECU fried.
I am planning on ordering in the Rtek 1.8 this week and sending off my unit to have it chipped, none the less whilst the ECU is out I am going to pull the dash and original harness for replacement with the S4 TII harness/MAF/and injector box thingy.
Picture of injector box thingy:
It is one of those two lol, I can be honest and tell you I am not sure which one, just glad I have it.
I am planning on ordering in the Rtek 1.8 this week and sending off my unit to have it chipped, none the less whilst the ECU is out I am going to pull the dash and original harness for replacement with the S4 TII harness/MAF/and injector box thingy.
Picture of injector box thingy:
It is one of those two lol, I can be honest and tell you I am not sure which one, just glad I have it.
03-29-12, 01:23 PM
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So 87, would you say that's going to be my problem? The car used to run with the old hacked tii harness. Now it will start, but won't idle, and once it's warm, it doesn't start again.
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03-30-12, 07:03 AM
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Yeah, I read through it, but this is my question.
Not worrying about emissions, but keeping the twin scroll system, do I ignore pin 2K? Cut it?
The car was originally a 5-speed NA so I ignore Pin 3D completely? Don't cut or anything?
Pin 2K is for the split air solenoid on NAs, but for the twin-scroll solenoid on turbos. If keeping emissions, a J-spec ACV does not use a split air solenoid, which will free this wire up for the twin-scroll system. I suggest using the S5 turbo and manifold however, so you can forget this system altogether.
Pin 3D is for the fuel pump resistor/relay on turbos, but is unused on manual NAs. However, on Automatic NAs, it runs to the inhibitor switch. But lets face it, no ones converting to turbo and using an AT transmission . So the wire at this pin can really be ignored in most cases.
Pin 3D is for the fuel pump resistor/relay on turbos, but is unused on manual NAs. However, on Automatic NAs, it runs to the inhibitor switch. But lets face it, no ones converting to turbo and using an AT transmission . So the wire at this pin can really be ignored in most cases.
The car was originally a 5-speed NA so I ignore Pin 3D completely? Don't cut or anything?
03-30-12, 04:20 PM
#9
On a turbo ECU, 2K is for the twin-scroll solenoid. If you're using an NA EM harness, this is now connected to the split air solenoid plug. Run 2 wires from the split air plug to the twin scroll solenoid, and you'll have pin 2K connected as it should be. It doesn't matter which side each wire plugs into, but L/B is ground and B/W is power.
Ignore 3D. Do not cut it.
Ignore 3D. Do not cut it.
03-30-12, 05:37 PM
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Alright, thanks. So it's just one wire.
On the turbo harness, we had to run a wire for the alternator (iirc) is that no longer necesary with the NA harness?
On the turbo harness, we had to run a wire for the alternator (iirc) is that no longer necesary with the NA harness?
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