Ok so.....My stock S5 driver side switch was broken so i needed to replace it, i got a great deal on a S4 switch which i was told should clip right in, and it did. and for my passenger side switch i just replaced with another S5 switch.

Last night when my gf and i went to dinner when i parked and was rolling up both windows from the drivers side i noticed that when i looked over my passenger window was already up and my driver side window was only half way but i pressed both buttons at the same time. i didnt thnk anything of it. came back out when to roll down both windows and the passenger side one does not work at all. neither switch works. and usually when i roll down my windows the RPM's go down about 50-75 or so and it seems the passenger side switches arent even drawing power.

So...my main question is, does this sound like the S4 switch fried the wire, or did the window motor just crap out. i havent checked for blown fuses yet but i would imagine that windows and lock would be on the same circuit, right? any help is appreciated.

Thanks

 

I wonder if your passenger side switch is bad? If so, you may be able to repair it.

When my driver's side switch failed, it turned out that the contacts just needed cleaning. Fortunately, the switches are easy to take apart and clean.

This thread should help you a bit...

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/few-electric-issues-436798/

 

Hmmm my 10th AE has the same problem... lol...

 

sounds like the motor tracks are all dirty and gummed up, and the newer switch burnt out as well.



I don't understand why people burn a switch out, and don't try and find the problem before putting a new switch in.

 

well.....the switch was broken. it needed to get replaced. the little plastic peices inside were broken, so i bought a new one, same with the driverside window switch. now, the passenger side window always went up and down with no problems, this seems to be a electrical problem, i took the door panel off today to check it and the tracks looked clean, i also noticed that there seems to be power draw when i pull the switch up on the drivers side switch panel, but none for down, and nothing at all for the switch on the passenger side. this is really confusing me

Oh, and when i got the S4 switch for the drivers side, it didnt work, but i took it apart and cleaned the 14 years of carbon out and it worked pretty good after that.

 

Again sounds like the switch is burnt out. Did you flow new solder in when you cleaned the contacts??? Usually when they are that old, and you just clean the carbon off, the metal underneith is so pitted that it makes a pretty poor contact.

 

but then why would the drivers switch work and the passenger one wont on the same switch.

i will solder the contacts to see if that is it. but neither switch works, and the only power draw there is for the passenger window is when i pull the switch up the wire signals power, when i push the switch i get nothing, and when i try to use the switch on the passenger side i get nothing. this is really weird.

 

Used switches are a crap shoot.
There's no guarantee they will work, even after you clean them.
I just bit the bullet and get NEW ones.
New ones always work.


-Ted

 

im not going to spend 300 dollars for some window switches. id rather switch the door to a crank.

 

and the switch on the passenger side is an S5 switch. would there be a conflict if i had and S4 drivers side switch with an S5 passenger side switch?

 

I just put an s5 drivers side switch in my 10th ae and i still have the s4 one in the passengers side. No problems so far. I don't think there is much of a difference.

 

well if you take the switches apart they are completely different, but still do the same thing. if i were mazda i would have stuck with the S4 design, it seems more serviceable and makes more sense, but then again they wouldnt be charging 300$ for them would they?

 

Icemark rebuilds them, good as new and cheap. That's my advise.

 

No, the S4 and S5 switches are wired exactly the same.

Don't forget I can add one touch up and down control to the drivers switch for both windows as well.

 

is there anyway you can wire up a different switch from another car that works better?

 

Actually the stock S4 switches a very exceptional in both rating and design, its just they are 15-20 years old.

Sure you could wire other switches in. But they would fail just the same unless you clean and adjust the tracks and rebuild the motors to like new operation.

On the One touch moduals I use, it actually turns the switch into a low current switch, and the modual's 20 amp internal relays take over, doubling the stock capacity. regular relays could also be wired if you are concerned about current through the stock switch, but it sounds like you just didn't rebuild the stock switch correctly.

 

hmmm....well my intention wasnt to rebuild it, but, i guess i need to. would you mind just giving me a simple step by step on rebuilding the S4 switch? i know the S5 switch is prefectly fine, but for some reason it isnt working. possibly something is failing on the S4 switch and causing the passenger door switch not to work. help would be great, thanks man

and what do you mean ONE TOUCH switches, what are those?

 

Well rebuilding a S4 switch is pretty simple, you just open the switch up, get some 800 grit sand paper and sand off all the old carbon scoring. Then flow a new thin layer solder in over any pits and dimples on the ends of each contact. Re-assemble with a fine layer of conductive grease on all the contact points and a touch of white lithium grease on any touch points of the plastic to the contacts.

On the one touch, It uses a modual wired in, so that if you tap the switch up; the window rolls all the way up, and if you tap the switch down the window rolls all the way down. If you hold the switch (up or down) the window motor goes until you release it. So one touch tap up for roll up; one touch roll down, or hold it to where you want the window to stop.

 

well, ****. i tried to flow new solder into the contacts and hope it would work better but now it doesnt work at all and im not sure what to do. i know something is really wrong with my passenger side window, but for now i need another drivers side switch, Ice, how much do you charge for a rebuilt switch?

i feel like such an idiot

 

I am no longer making window switches available, I was loosing too much money rebuilding switches for cars that the owners refused to even align the windows in, well alone clean out a window track.

I do still make available the one touch rebuild, for $135 (+ shipping). Send your S4 switch in and get a a one touch switch back.

 

im pretty sure i screwed the switch so im not sure of how much use it will be to you, and i cant really afford 135+SH right now so it may be a while, but thanks anyways

 

the only thing that really gets me is that there is only power draw when i pull the switch up to make the window go up even though the window is rolled up fully, but no power draw when i push the switch to roll it down. now as far as switches working, the only one that worked was the drivers side window switch(when it still worked), the switch on the actual passenger side door doesnt work at all and the passenger side switch on the drivers side panel only works with the problem stated above when before "all of a sudden" they all worked excellent with no problems. could a dirty track really cause this? i know the window is aligned perfectly, i checked that and the track looks fine, a wire maybe? i know im sounding like a broken record but what the hell can this be? and really cant diagnose now with no working switches.

 

you mean that people wouldnt pay you because they claimed the switch didnt work, due to they're own incompetence? thats like me blaming you for me screwing my switch up because you just tried to help me out with it. thats stupid.

 

They would keep burning out switches and sending them back in under warranty. I have a very very liberal warranty policy, and it seems window switch owners were taking advantage of it.

But it gets old real quick ripping a switch apart and replacing contacts every couple of months and then paying to ship it back to them.

One customer I even eventually just wired up a set a 40 amp relays into the switch assembly, just so I wouldn't ever see it again.

 

Do you have access to a multi-meter. in worse case if you get at least 12 volts out of the switch, we could wire a couple of relays.

what part of the bay area are you in???