S4 2+2/4 bolt/ auto becomes GTU (Big A55 project)
#1
S4 2+2/4 bolt/ auto becomes GTU (Big *** project)
Briefly: I have a rusted out 86 GTU I've been driving and modding the last 7 years- See signature.
I also have a rust free 86 auto, 4 bolt, that only needs minor dent repair and a running motor. Both cars have the red/grey color.
Goal: To complete a 5-bolt swap, and manual conversion , and move out by November 22, 2009. Also to stay under $500.
The wife agreed to two months to do this. I say agreed, but it was more like "Honey, I'm getting rid of one of the cars. I rented a shop today."
The keeper will get the motor and manual tranny, the whole rear end, front shocks and 5-bolt conversion. The gas tank, and a few interior parts. It will also get all the go-fast I have done to the cancer patient. The exhaust, MSD, e-fan, etc. I am also replacing the shocks, get a 1" master cylinder, new bushings. SS hydraulic lines. Maybe front and rear sway bar, and strut braces. What do you guys think of these? I know about buying stuff like this on ebay. But it has to be better then stock right?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GODSP...Q5fAccessories
I have thought most of this through. I have rented a 20'x20' storage unit with power. Today I moved in and began on the Keeper. I have three different shop manuals, plus lots of things I printed from the internet through out the years.
The "shop" is pretty nice. A little small and I haven't even moved in the other car yet. I have a nice steel work bench and a Matco role around tool box. I will not be able to power an air compressor. Although I plan on filling my compressor and toting it back and forth. Than way i can still break big stuck bolts loose.
Today I accomplished removing the front shocks and spindles, the entire exhaust. I unplugged and unhooked the motor and tranny except for the bolts. (Still need to source a cherry picker)
![](http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii127/tweakedlogic/IMG_2042.jpg)
![](http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii127/tweakedlogic/IMG_2043.jpg)
Naturally the reason I am starting this thread is to make sure I don't forget anything. Maybe spark some innovation. Perhaps my misadventures can help some one else. I will also be cleaning and painting most of what i re-install.
I also have a rust free 86 auto, 4 bolt, that only needs minor dent repair and a running motor. Both cars have the red/grey color.
Goal: To complete a 5-bolt swap, and manual conversion , and move out by November 22, 2009. Also to stay under $500.
The wife agreed to two months to do this. I say agreed, but it was more like "Honey, I'm getting rid of one of the cars. I rented a shop today."
The keeper will get the motor and manual tranny, the whole rear end, front shocks and 5-bolt conversion. The gas tank, and a few interior parts. It will also get all the go-fast I have done to the cancer patient. The exhaust, MSD, e-fan, etc. I am also replacing the shocks, get a 1" master cylinder, new bushings. SS hydraulic lines. Maybe front and rear sway bar, and strut braces. What do you guys think of these? I know about buying stuff like this on ebay. But it has to be better then stock right?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GODSP...Q5fAccessories
I have thought most of this through. I have rented a 20'x20' storage unit with power. Today I moved in and began on the Keeper. I have three different shop manuals, plus lots of things I printed from the internet through out the years.
The "shop" is pretty nice. A little small and I haven't even moved in the other car yet. I have a nice steel work bench and a Matco role around tool box. I will not be able to power an air compressor. Although I plan on filling my compressor and toting it back and forth. Than way i can still break big stuck bolts loose.
Today I accomplished removing the front shocks and spindles, the entire exhaust. I unplugged and unhooked the motor and tranny except for the bolts. (Still need to source a cherry picker)
![](http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii127/tweakedlogic/IMG_2042.jpg)
![](http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii127/tweakedlogic/IMG_2043.jpg)
Naturally the reason I am starting this thread is to make sure I don't forget anything. Maybe spark some innovation. Perhaps my misadventures can help some one else. I will also be cleaning and painting most of what i re-install.
#2
Seems like your going the right route so far. Nice to have a"shop" to work in, how much that cost you?
I really recommend you get four of the same jack stands. I wouldnt trust my 7 on jack stands like those. Its just not level and who knows what can happen! Good luck and keep us updated. I really hate when people make threads like these just to never hear about the project again.
I really recommend you get four of the same jack stands. I wouldnt trust my 7 on jack stands like those. Its just not level and who knows what can happen! Good luck and keep us updated. I really hate when people make threads like these just to never hear about the project again.
#3
It's only $190 a month. I wish it were a little bigger and had a plug for the compressor.
After the other car is in there, I will only have a little room in the middle. I might hange some temp shelves to have a place to stash parts.
That reminds me... I have lots of parts to get rid of. I already have lots of maroon interior parts, to this i will add grey interior, front 4 lug brake calipers, springs and spindles. A complete (one piece) stock exhaust with no cat. rear seat and carpet. Automatic transmission with 30k since rebuild. All this is free. You can have it. If you want it shipped You will have to pay for that. While I'm at it I also have a S4 short block that needs rebuilding... FREE! Just come and take it.
After the other car is in there, I will only have a little room in the middle. I might hange some temp shelves to have a place to stash parts.
That reminds me... I have lots of parts to get rid of. I already have lots of maroon interior parts, to this i will add grey interior, front 4 lug brake calipers, springs and spindles. A complete (one piece) stock exhaust with no cat. rear seat and carpet. Automatic transmission with 30k since rebuild. All this is free. You can have it. If you want it shipped You will have to pay for that. While I'm at it I also have a S4 short block that needs rebuilding... FREE! Just come and take it.
#5
Not much to report today. I removed the rear assembly, then started on the gas tank. Dis-assembly is going quickly, but I wanted to go shopping instead.
I bought a bunch of wire wheels and sand paper so i can clean up the parts going in.
While I was buying spray paint, I decided to spray these Enkei 18's stain black. I bought some self etching primer too. Prepped one wheel and sprayed the primer... The olive primer color looks sweet!
I'm thinking I'm going to buy some clear show the primer. I'll look at it in them in the day light.
Seriously though, FREE! if any body wants any of this stuff, let me know. I am just going to take it to the metal recyclers. I don't know what to do with the plastics though. I don't want to landfill that.
Most of the interior parts have no fading or cracking. Maroon, gray, and some blue. free working automatic and rear end.
Who doesn't want that?
I have some Eibach springs that I've never installed, I need shocks. Koni is out of budget.
Any body really love another shock? This car will occasionally see a track or two. Mostly street and spirited back road driving. That's why I really want adjustables. That doubles what I intended to spend on new parts... It's a good thing I married a good woman. If I were single, I would buy what ever I wanted with out any thought to silly things like rent and food. She is really good about letting me know what I'm allowed to spend until the next pay cycle.
Tomorrow I find a cherry picker and ****** the motor and tranny out. Then I can start to prep the engine bay for paint.
I hate sanding. But I love painting
Need to start thinking about color scheme. A sexy red? or midnight blue and silver?
![Smilie](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
While I was buying spray paint, I decided to spray these Enkei 18's stain black. I bought some self etching primer too. Prepped one wheel and sprayed the primer... The olive primer color looks sweet!
![Shocking](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/shocking.gif)
Seriously though, FREE! if any body wants any of this stuff, let me know. I am just going to take it to the metal recyclers. I don't know what to do with the plastics though. I don't want to landfill that.
Most of the interior parts have no fading or cracking. Maroon, gray, and some blue. free working automatic and rear end.
![Icon Tup](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/icon_tup.gif)
I have some Eibach springs that I've never installed, I need shocks. Koni is out of budget.
Any body really love another shock? This car will occasionally see a track or two. Mostly street and spirited back road driving. That's why I really want adjustables. That doubles what I intended to spend on new parts... It's a good thing I married a good woman. If I were single, I would buy what ever I wanted with out any thought to silly things like rent and food. She is really good about letting me know what I'm allowed to spend until the next pay cycle.
Tomorrow I find a cherry picker and ****** the motor and tranny out. Then I can start to prep the engine bay for paint.
![Frown](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/frown.gif)
![Smilie](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Need to start thinking about color scheme. A sexy red? or midnight blue and silver?
#6
Good day today.
GOt the engine bay stripped down to prep for paint. I can't decide what color. My choices are; Midnight blue w/ tiny metallic flake, a deep sexy red, the Lotis Elise orange. Or two tone; flat silver top and black, or shiny silver top and midnight blue bottom. I could also choose to spray the engine bay only in bright shiny white. Which would make if very easy to see while working under the hood.
Any thoughts guys? I can't photoshop, so you will just have to use your imagination.
Today I was successful in recruiting my wife to help
. I meant to take a picture of the empty engine bay. My brain doesn't always work so well
. But tomorrow, I plan on setting her to work on taking the wire wheel to all the little brackets from the engine bay
. Have any of you ever used appliance paint for things like this? They sometimes use it on motorcycle frames. I thought I'd try it. It seems like it would be a very strong coating. Think I should use primer with it? It makes no mention on the can.
Unrelated question but...
Anybody know how I can change the title of this thread? The one I wrote is stupid.
GOt the engine bay stripped down to prep for paint. I can't decide what color. My choices are; Midnight blue w/ tiny metallic flake, a deep sexy red, the Lotis Elise orange. Or two tone; flat silver top and black, or shiny silver top and midnight blue bottom. I could also choose to spray the engine bay only in bright shiny white. Which would make if very easy to see while working under the hood.
Any thoughts guys? I can't photoshop, so you will just have to use your imagination.
Today I was successful in recruiting my wife to help
![Smilie](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Frown](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/frown.gif)
![Smilie](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Unrelated question but...
Anybody know how I can change the title of this thread? The one I wrote is stupid.
#7
It seems there isn't much interest in this thread. I ahve a hard time keeping up with the Free Parts thread.
I'll give it a little longer. Maybe it might help someone.
Today I cleaned out all the big parts preventing me from pulling in the cancer patient. Tomorrow i will pull the engine cross member, wire brush it and paint it.
Parts came today. My master bushing kit, stainless brake/ clutch lines. I expect my strut braces in the next couple of days.
I still need shocks and sway bars. I am definitely going with the adjustable shocks. I guess I will ahve to make a new thread to get my questions answered about those.
Today i spent a lot of time taking all of the little brackets and what not in the engine bay to the wire wheel and painted them. it took longer than I wanted it to, but it's done. Except for the hood latch. It has to be repainted. Appliance paint does need primer by the way.
I won't go into too much detail at this time. There is more to be done.
I'll give it a little longer. Maybe it might help someone.
Today I cleaned out all the big parts preventing me from pulling in the cancer patient. Tomorrow i will pull the engine cross member, wire brush it and paint it.
Parts came today. My master bushing kit, stainless brake/ clutch lines. I expect my strut braces in the next couple of days.
I still need shocks and sway bars. I am definitely going with the adjustable shocks. I guess I will ahve to make a new thread to get my questions answered about those.
Today i spent a lot of time taking all of the little brackets and what not in the engine bay to the wire wheel and painted them. it took longer than I wanted it to, but it's done. Except for the hood latch. It has to be repainted. Appliance paint does need primer by the way.
I won't go into too much detail at this time. There is more to be done.
Trending Topics
#9
It seems there isn't much interest in this thread. I ahve a hard time keeping up with the Free Parts thread.
I'll give it a little longer. Maybe it might help someone.
Today I cleaned out all the big parts preventing me from pulling in the cancer patient. Tomorrow i will pull the engine cross member, wire brush it and paint it.
Parts came today. My master bushing kit, stainless brake/ clutch lines. I expect my strut braces in the next couple of days.
I still need shocks and sway bars. I am definitely going with the adjustable shocks. I guess I will ahve to make a new thread to get my questions answered about those.
Today i spent a lot of time taking all of the little brackets and what not in the engine bay to the wire wheel and painted them. it took longer than I wanted it to, but it's done. Except for the hood latch. It has to be repainted. Appliance paint does need primer by the way.
I won't go into too much detail at this time. There is more to be done.
I'll give it a little longer. Maybe it might help someone.
Today I cleaned out all the big parts preventing me from pulling in the cancer patient. Tomorrow i will pull the engine cross member, wire brush it and paint it.
Parts came today. My master bushing kit, stainless brake/ clutch lines. I expect my strut braces in the next couple of days.
I still need shocks and sway bars. I am definitely going with the adjustable shocks. I guess I will ahve to make a new thread to get my questions answered about those.
Today i spent a lot of time taking all of the little brackets and what not in the engine bay to the wire wheel and painted them. it took longer than I wanted it to, but it's done. Except for the hood latch. It has to be repainted. Appliance paint does need primer by the way.
I won't go into too much detail at this time. There is more to be done.
http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/s...013&perfCode=S
#10
If you're going to paint the engine bay (but not the rest of the car? in a new colour, I'd suggest the white - like you observed, makes it much easier see and work under the hood, a very common choice for racers.
You shouldn't need primer for whatever colour you choose, unless it's going on bare metal. Existing paint should, however, be cleaned of any grease/oil/wax, and lightly sanded to promote adhesion of the new paint. The sanding is a lot of work, but it sucks to have a lot of peeling and chipping after you've got it all together. I'm not a paint expert, but I don't think there's any shortcuts to proper prep.
You shouldn't need primer for whatever colour you choose, unless it's going on bare metal. Existing paint should, however, be cleaned of any grease/oil/wax, and lightly sanded to promote adhesion of the new paint. The sanding is a lot of work, but it sucks to have a lot of peeling and chipping after you've got it all together. I'm not a paint expert, but I don't think there's any shortcuts to proper prep.
#11
I've got the AGX adjustables, they've served pretty well, and are a good value. If I was doing it again, I might put Koni Sports (yellows) on the front, and stick with the AGX's on the rears. The Koni fronts have more range of adjustment, and are infinitely variable, versus 4 settings on the AGX fronts (which nonetheless seems to get the job done for me). The rear AGX's have 8 settings. Being able to adjust the rears at the bottom is a huge advantage, whereas the the Tokicos and Koni rears are such a PITA that being adjustable is almost meaningless - it's too much work, especially to change on the fly to tune handling to a particular track or set of conditions.
As far as anti-roll bars go - resist the urge to go overboard. I'm assuming your rear is a 14mm (from the GTU), and the front a 24mm (also GTU). A little more front bar is not a bad thing (maybe a 27mm?), but I'd resist the urge for more rear bar, unless you want to drift.
As far as anti-roll bars go - resist the urge to go overboard. I'm assuming your rear is a 14mm (from the GTU), and the front a 24mm (also GTU). A little more front bar is not a bad thing (maybe a 27mm?), but I'd resist the urge for more rear bar, unless you want to drift.
#12
Things are going slowly at the moment. I forgot how much work it is to paint the engine bay. I haven't finished getting everything out and masked yet. I also have to figure a way to make the wire harness more attractive. I might just to loom, but I don't like it.
By the way I'm painting the engine bay now, then I'm going to use the winter to collect the body parts and new pretties I want. then when it's warmer weather comes, I'll spray the outside.
I've been working diligently on all of these small parts.
the steering rack was drying when I took the pic. the color of the brackets isn't showing up correctly in the photos. It's the stainless color. It looks ok, I think the metal flake is a little too large.
I have also been cleaning and spraying truck bed liner under the car. i figure this will help keep rust at bay, and hopefully add some sound deadening too.
I was comparing prices for the Tokico vs AGX. the tokico are about $40 cheaper. Aside from the adjustment ****, are there any other advantages to the AGX?.
![](http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii127/tweakedlogic/IMG_2052.jpg)
![](http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii127/tweakedlogic/IMG_2051.jpg)
![](http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii127/tweakedlogic/IMG_2050.jpg)
![](http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii127/tweakedlogic/IMG_2049.jpg)
By the way I'm painting the engine bay now, then I'm going to use the winter to collect the body parts and new pretties I want. then when it's warmer weather comes, I'll spray the outside.
I've been working diligently on all of these small parts.
the steering rack was drying when I took the pic. the color of the brackets isn't showing up correctly in the photos. It's the stainless color. It looks ok, I think the metal flake is a little too large.
I have also been cleaning and spraying truck bed liner under the car. i figure this will help keep rust at bay, and hopefully add some sound deadening too.
I was comparing prices for the Tokico vs AGX. the tokico are about $40 cheaper. Aside from the adjustment ****, are there any other advantages to the AGX?.
![](http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii127/tweakedlogic/IMG_2052.jpg)
![](http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii127/tweakedlogic/IMG_2051.jpg)
![](http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii127/tweakedlogic/IMG_2050.jpg)
![](http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii127/tweakedlogic/IMG_2049.jpg)
![](http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii127/tweakedlogic/IMG_2044.jpg)
#14
Rotary Enthusiast
![](https://www.rx7club.com/images/misc/15_year_icon.png)
Swapping the parts is the easy part...cleaning everything and painting every little piece is what takes all the time! Two months is an aggressive schedule. Hope you make it. It looks like you're off to a great start. Keep up the good work and continue posting your progress. Nobody is commenting because you're doing it right!
#16
"I was comparing prices for the Tokico vs AGX. the tokico are about $40 cheaper. Aside from the adjustment ****, are there any other advantages"
I think you are comparing the Tokico Blues which are not adjustable to the adjustable AGX's. If your looking for non adjustables go with the former(Tokico) otherwise choose the latter(AGX).
I think you are comparing the Tokico Blues which are not adjustable to the adjustable AGX's. If your looking for non adjustables go with the former(Tokico) otherwise choose the latter(AGX).
#17
Very nice indeed. Keep at it. There are always unexpected delays, so it's good to be ahead of shedule. My input on paint - Red!
You may want to keep some spare parts...anything that you can rebuild like alt. , brake calipers, master cylinder, etc. That way if you see something is going, you can fix up the spare part and then just swap. Oh, also, wiper or light switches and things like that. A couple of boxes of parts don't take much room.
You may want to keep some spare parts...anything that you can rebuild like alt. , brake calipers, master cylinder, etc. That way if you see something is going, you can fix up the spare part and then just swap. Oh, also, wiper or light switches and things like that. A couple of boxes of parts don't take much room.
#18
This thing was a bitch!
![](http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii127/tweakedlogic/IMAG0057.jpg)
Do yourself a favor if you decide to repaint the engine cross member... Pay some one else to do it. this pic is after i worked on sanding and wire brushing for over 2 hours. Maybe longer. It's only primed right now. I ran out of self etching primer so it only has one coat. I'll finish it tomorrow.
I also had a problem with the steering rack. I came in today and looked at it. It was nearly perfect, but i thought it would look better with one more coat. As soon as i finished spraying, it started to wrinkle. the clamps that hold it to the crossmember did the same thing.
![](http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii127/tweakedlogic/IMAG0059.jpg)
![](http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii127/tweakedlogic/IMAG0061.jpg)
So I sanded the steering rack just enough to get the wrinkles out, then I re-sprayed and it did the same thing. It might be that it was too cold in the shop. Or it might be the appliance paint. I don't know. I've never used this paint before, but it seems tough and hard when it's dry.
I did get the lower control arms done. They didn't turn out as well as I would like. But it will do.
![](http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii127/tweakedlogic/IMAG0058.jpg)
I put it on the wire wheel first, then I scuffed with a it Scotch Brite to give it a uniform brushed look. Sprayed it with some wheel clear coat. If I finish the cross member, I will install my Energy bushings tomorrow.
I need to get this tedious stuff out of the way. With 6 weeks left, i think I'm on schedule. I guess you could say i'm still having fun, but I hate sanding and paint prep. but for the most part things are going well, if you subtract the time the wire brush got wound up in my shirt causing the drill to hit me in the nuts.
It's funny now, but it ended my work yesterday.
![](http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii127/tweakedlogic/IMAG0057.jpg)
Do yourself a favor if you decide to repaint the engine cross member... Pay some one else to do it. this pic is after i worked on sanding and wire brushing for over 2 hours. Maybe longer. It's only primed right now. I ran out of self etching primer so it only has one coat. I'll finish it tomorrow.
I also had a problem with the steering rack. I came in today and looked at it. It was nearly perfect, but i thought it would look better with one more coat. As soon as i finished spraying, it started to wrinkle. the clamps that hold it to the crossmember did the same thing.
![](http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii127/tweakedlogic/IMAG0059.jpg)
![](http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii127/tweakedlogic/IMAG0061.jpg)
So I sanded the steering rack just enough to get the wrinkles out, then I re-sprayed and it did the same thing. It might be that it was too cold in the shop. Or it might be the appliance paint. I don't know. I've never used this paint before, but it seems tough and hard when it's dry.
I did get the lower control arms done. They didn't turn out as well as I would like. But it will do.
![](http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii127/tweakedlogic/IMAG0058.jpg)
I put it on the wire wheel first, then I scuffed with a it Scotch Brite to give it a uniform brushed look. Sprayed it with some wheel clear coat. If I finish the cross member, I will install my Energy bushings tomorrow.
I need to get this tedious stuff out of the way. With 6 weeks left, i think I'm on schedule. I guess you could say i'm still having fun, but I hate sanding and paint prep. but for the most part things are going well, if you subtract the time the wire brush got wound up in my shirt causing the drill to hit me in the nuts.
![Lol](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/lol.gif)
#22
Agreed. I really dig seeing people get a chance to challenge themselves.
Could you post up more info about the paints you are using? I am on a slower schedule than you, but will be painting some parts in the near future and would love some advice.
Could you post up more info about the paints you are using? I am on a slower schedule than you, but will be painting some parts in the near future and would love some advice.
#23
I have not been able to make it to the shop the last two days. Yesterday I had to work about 4 hours extra, then my wife pleaded with me to stay home for the night. Hard to say no when she is freshly waxed and ready for bed. Then this morning I was supposed to make a trip to Nashville for a project, then be home by about 3 pm. but at 9 this morning, 30 miles outside of Memphis, I heard a loud whining from the 5 speed in my Explorer. Pulled over, the tranny is covered in fluid and is too hot to touch. I have yet to make it back to the truck and attempt to get it back home.
Needless to say, the tranny going out on my second vehicle complicates things in many ways. If I jump all over it to get it fixed, I blow a lot of money and time that could go to the 7 project. If I leave it for another day, then i don't have a drivable car when i pull the cancer patient in the shop. The only transportation I would have is my bicycle and a vintage 350 motorcycle. Since the Explorer is 4 wheel drive, pulling the transmission is no easy task. Also, used transmissions run between $300 and $1000. money I don't have for a truck I'm planning on selling next year.
Also, I have no way to pull it the truck back. I have been pestering my BF to buy the parts needed for me to fix his truck, but he hasn't done it yet. Out of lazyness, not lack of funds. So I don't know if I should drive out there with tranny fluid and do a fluid change, then attempt to drive it home, or what.
Anyway, not much to report for the last couple days regarding the 7. I did get all of the parts i ordered so far. Strut braces, new temp control switch for the e-fan, Energy bushings, and my stainless brake lines. Although, on the brake lines. I wasn't thinking at all that day. because it was easier, I measured the lines from the auto, which has the single piston. i should have measured the lines on the cancer patient. i hope they will allow me to return them. I will have to wait until Monday to find out. I still need to buy shocks and I want to buy front and rear camber adjustables. I don't know if I can do either with my truck in the can. i am one of those guys that often times. NEED a utility vehicle.
We will see what happens.