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S-AFC II, this thing is not intuitive

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Old 10-06-04, 07:49 AM
  #26  
I'm a boost creep...

 
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Nope, only one wire gets cut.

Old 10-06-04, 08:19 AM
  #27  
HAILERS

 
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The 3.8v would be with the key to ON and the engine OFF. With the engine running, it should read approx 2.7v.

Like NZ said, the afm wire should be cut in two. It is a Green wire with a Blue stripe going to pin 2E.

You cut it in two. The SAFC's white wire is then connected to the green/blue coming from the afm.

The SAFC's yellow wire is then connected to the other half of the green/blue wire that goes to the ECU.

That's for a series four car. I know not a thing about series five.

O2 sensors have nothing to do with idle at all in any way, shape or form.
Old 10-06-04, 09:00 AM
  #28  
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Yah It was the AFM sorry It had been along day My bad. It is wired properly Ihave checked the thing like 5 times and I had somone else theck it once (just for a fresh pair of eyes) The 3.8 is with the car on and the motor off. But like NZconvertable posted I will try wiring the Yellow and White wired to the presure sensor insted of the AFM and see how that works. Unfortunatly it prabably wont be untill Friday night or sturday. When I wire it to the presure sensor How will I make the settings?
Old 10-06-04, 12:33 PM
  #29  
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No, no, no, nope. The AFM HAS/MUST be wired like the manual says. The afm is the signal that needs to be intercepted by the SAFC so you can change the fuel amount.

It's the tps that you can bypass and use the pressure sensor instead. So instead of splicing the grey wire of the safc into the green/red wire, you splice into the brown/red wire at pin 2B of the ECU.

Sorry, but this won't help your problem. If it can't run off the tps, moving to the pressure sensor most likely won't help your current problem. I had my na going to the tps and it worked fine for the small period of time it was on there. On my turbo I have it going to the pressure sensor and set the high at the poin that the boost pressure gets over zero on the boost gauge, which is approx 53percent for me.

I can't figure out why your having problems. There's something I'm not catching on to. Does the voltage for the afm fall when you push the flap/vane in the afm? It should and probably does.
Old 10-06-04, 12:52 PM
  #30  
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i double checked his connetion. everything he did. was done correctly by 1300CC website. durring our intital try out we got rid of some issue reguarding the TPS voltage by the ecu. i took care of that. we talked about wirring to the pressure sensor as well but since his car isn't boosted like many s4 turbo owners i wasn't sure if it would work correctly. being that his car doesnt create boost but just get vacume realived.

is it possible to just have the Safc2 wire taped into the pressure sensor, AND only read off of Vacume pressure? lets say if he has a # amount of PSI of vacume at closed throthle and 0 psi vacume at full open throthle?

In a turbo motor the boost sensor reads. Vacume And boost. it was like -14psi to +8psi something like that.

is it possible to Function the S4 N/a with just vacume pressure reading off an n/a pressure sensor?

Last edited by Blade8r; 10-06-04 at 12:59 PM.
Old 10-06-04, 12:58 PM
  #31  
just dont care.

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this is looking more and more like a disaster
Old 10-06-04, 01:18 PM
  #32  
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tell me about it. here are the symptons of his car Problem with starting the car. Unable to hold Idle correctly (it did before the install), Power loss throughout Whole RPM, hesitation when engaging clutch at any rpm. and running PIG RICH (he had a glowing manifold.) durring the car is running he has it floored it'll take like 7 secons for the car to get to redline at 1 gear! lets not talk about any of the other gears. his car is bogging when running. LACK OF POWER! RICH AS ALL HELL. POPPING like a ****. (He got his car to stop the whole big popping incident) last time i saw his car. before he would take me 5 cars with his vert. now it seems i can take him 15 cars with my GXL.

My best guess is that it's his After market Ignition.

AND YES WE DID HAVE A DISCUSSION ABOUT IT! and i Quote

Me: "hey i see you got an after market Ignition system (i forgot what brand he got and it was last night lol)"
Him: "Yeah i put that right before the Safc2"
Me: "How was that running for you?"
Him: "I don't know this stupid Safc2 won't let me run my car right!"
Me: "you installed the both the Safc2 and ignition system at the same time?"
Him: "yeah. I always learned that you shouln't do 2 mods at once but i did it anyways."
Me: "you think maybe the problem is the ignition system?"
Him: "belive me i thought about that. but im sure that's not the problem"
Me: "Why would you say that?"
Him: "The car can function! common, it's just an amplifire. turns the spark into a bigger one. It should run better"
Me: "why did you want to upgrade the stock ignition? there have been alot of people who have 350-400+hp system just on the stock ignition. Mazda built the ignition system right for this car."
Him: "yeah i know but since my car runs rich already. i just wanted to get that little UMmPH for the hell of it."
Me: "alright :/"

if you ask me his igniton system isn't adiquate enough to spark the rotary engine.
(AND YES Bluebyu EVEN THOUGH YOU DON'T BELIVE ME IT'S JUST MY OPINION! HA)

common Safc2 wired correctly, information input is correct, 0 corrections on fuel.

Like you said. "This car should be running like stock"

guess what it is running like stock! it's running as if the SAFC2 isnt there. What is the other thing that could be the problem? My Own personal opinion belives that it's the Ignition system that's messing everything up!

Last edited by Blade8r; 10-06-04 at 01:32 PM.
Old 10-07-04, 12:10 AM
  #33  
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Bumb anybody got any Extra info for my buddy! i gave symptoms of the ride. anyone got an idea to toss around other then bad wiring?
Old 10-07-04, 12:21 AM
  #34  
Boosted. I got BLOWN!!!

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Did he run the car with just the new ignition system? I say take out the AFC and test the new ignition by itself...
Old 10-07-04, 12:30 AM
  #35  
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im telling him to do vise versa. i'm not quite sure but i do remember at seven stock durring the tuning session that it was hard to determine one guys rx7 problem.

he later found out that the aftermarket Ignition system created a magnetic field around 4k+ rpm. that bogged the whole car.

im just telling him to rid of himself of the system. not the safc2.
Old 10-07-04, 01:46 AM
  #36  
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Ok Lets not get off track. The Crane Cams Hi6 is not the problem. All it does is boost the signal to the coil pack and then off to the plugs. It either works or it dosen't. Since we were driving the car last night it works. We also agreed to this last night blade8r. I am going to disconect the AFC (un solder) and see how it runs. This is a disaster and I have no time for it. I thought simple install take it to the local tuner and off I go. Well now I can't get it to the tuner as he is over an hour away and I have to resolve this problem first.
Thanks for every ones support though. Keep the Ideas coming
Are their any s4 N/A guys out there CURINTLY using this device?
Old 10-07-04, 09:00 AM
  #37  
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check your tps to make sure it is set correctly. I have ran an safc in an NA and it worked great for years. I tried a SAFC2 in the same car when I turboed it and had problems. Wouldn't rev over 4 grand. I redid the tps and got it set perfectly and the problem went away.

Have you checked the tps itself to make sure it is good. Than recheck its setting once you know the sensor is good. I would also try leaning it out after setting the tps again
Old 10-07-04, 10:57 AM
  #38  
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Yes the TPS was checked with a volt meter and set to 1 vlt. But as I type this it dawns on me that the TPS on the SAFC II red it diferantly so we calibrated the TPS to it. I did not think to re check it with the volt meter. ****
It was running rich prior to the install, even righer with it The light goes on. I am going to check the tps again with the volt meter and see what I get. Ill let you know
Old 10-07-04, 11:32 AM
  #39  
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Runs like a dog? Have a new Crane's cam ignition? Try this. Idle the car when its running like a dog. Now while at idle, go to your LEAD coil assy. Slowly and carefully, extract one of the sparkplug wires out of the LEAD coil, BUT not all the way out or you'll get zapped. When it's almost all the way out of the coil bore, you should hear the snap, snap, snap of the arcing wire. IF you hear no arcing pull the wire out some more and verify that it is not firing.
I'm saying that if the LEAD coil isn't firing......the car runs like a dog. That sparkplug wire that your pulling out of the LEAD coil bore should arc up to an inch away from the coil assy. Any further and it'll arc to .....YOU and you'll feel it.
Old 10-07-04, 02:57 PM
  #40  
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Hailers you are the man. It was the ni-6. I took it out and reinstalled it (the exact same way) now I have spark from here to the moon. I come from years of racing V8 in the SCORE racing series and, well In a V8 you don't have trailing coils so is the ignition dosen't work the car dosen't run. Well I am learned to another reasone why 7's rule. Well with a good nights sleep and sound imput (Thanks every one) My car is back to running stock @ 0 compensation.
Now where to get it tuned? I know of a persone in San diego but if any of you have referances for rotory experianced dino tuning In the OC please let me know.
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