?'s about motor swap
02-21-08, 02:25 PM
#26
Grrrr... Trying to track down difficulties with the idle. I worked on the grounding setup. I moved my 4 gauge extra ground from the UIM to the alternator housing & added a ground to the coil-body mount. I rerouted the extra hot to the S6 alternator. I thoroughly scrubbed the terminals & mounting points with a wire brush. The radio seems to only pop occasionally now.
I found a coolant leak at the exit for the heater core in the firewall. It turns out I crushed the pipe trying to get the engine in the mounting holes - DOH! I rigged a bypass out of metal conduuit I had laying around. Good thing I'm in Florida... I never need the heater down here...I'll fix it next time the engine is out.
I had blown the hose off of the exhaust back-pressure tube on my header. I changed out the hose & put a good clamp on it. I still have what seems to be a vacuum leak somewhere so I started poking around again... A hose popped off of the OMP injector spider thing... so I had to pull the upper/mid manifold off to put it back on... while I had it off I put some gasket sealer between the mid & lower manifold... I think this is where the leak was so we'll see what happens... I got to wait a while for the sealer to cure a bit & then go for a test drive to the beach - HAHA!! it's about 25 miles round trip.
Ramses666
I found a coolant leak at the exit for the heater core in the firewall. It turns out I crushed the pipe trying to get the engine in the mounting holes - DOH! I rigged a bypass out of metal conduuit I had laying around. Good thing I'm in Florida... I never need the heater down here...I'll fix it next time the engine is out.
I had blown the hose off of the exhaust back-pressure tube on my header. I changed out the hose & put a good clamp on it. I still have what seems to be a vacuum leak somewhere so I started poking around again... A hose popped off of the OMP injector spider thing... so I had to pull the upper/mid manifold off to put it back on... while I had it off I put some gasket sealer between the mid & lower manifold... I think this is where the leak was so we'll see what happens... I got to wait a while for the sealer to cure a bit & then go for a test drive to the beach - HAHA!! it's about 25 miles round trip.
Ramses666
02-23-08, 08:56 AM
#27
All righty then.... I got my idle problem fixed - I pulled the upper & mid intake & put some RTV sealant around the gasket surface & then bolted it back up... I also found the wires going to the pressure sensor on the passenger shock tower were not connected.
Went for a drive & everything worked great!! Until... I took a very short trip to the store ... about a block & a half and flooded the car the next time I went to go home... DOH!! I really should have known better because this has almost always happened. Why do I do stupid stuff like not driving the car enough to really warm up the engine?? I didn't have my de-flood rig with me - my bottle of ATF with a 2.5 ft. hose attatched - So now I had to improvise. I had a bottle of 20-50 motor oil and found a 1 ft. piece of pvc pipe and a small funnel. The motor spun over really fast indicating that the excess fuel from flooding had washed out the lubricants causing the low compression problem. I unscrewed the air inlect duct and put the pvc pipe as far into the throttle body as possible and attatched the funnel & poured some oil in. I quickly re-attatched the air duct & turned the motor over for a while.
It takes some time for the oil to work its way into the rotors so I had to wait. If you just keep cranking with out stopping the fuel flow it won't work very well. It was getting late & my buddy who truly hates my car was telling me just to get it towed home. I knuckled under & called for a tow truck. When it finally showed up 2 hours later I tried to start the car & it fired right up... Go figure... I drove home no problems. I guess I'm gonna have to rebuild my original block sooner than later.
The only real problem left is the popping radio. I cleaned all the grounds and added some extra ones to the alternator body & the first coil mount and from the intake to the firewall. Still popping the radio. the idle is right at 800 and solid & the motor runs good - no back-fires or misses or stumbles & it pulls good. Now I have to clean up the disaster area in my garage - I've got stuff everywhere & lots of filth to clean up.
Ramses666
Went for a drive & everything worked great!! Until... I took a very short trip to the store ... about a block & a half and flooded the car the next time I went to go home... DOH!! I really should have known better because this has almost always happened. Why do I do stupid stuff like not driving the car enough to really warm up the engine?? I didn't have my de-flood rig with me - my bottle of ATF with a 2.5 ft. hose attatched - So now I had to improvise. I had a bottle of 20-50 motor oil and found a 1 ft. piece of pvc pipe and a small funnel. The motor spun over really fast indicating that the excess fuel from flooding had washed out the lubricants causing the low compression problem. I unscrewed the air inlect duct and put the pvc pipe as far into the throttle body as possible and attatched the funnel & poured some oil in. I quickly re-attatched the air duct & turned the motor over for a while.
It takes some time for the oil to work its way into the rotors so I had to wait. If you just keep cranking with out stopping the fuel flow it won't work very well. It was getting late & my buddy who truly hates my car was telling me just to get it towed home. I knuckled under & called for a tow truck. When it finally showed up 2 hours later I tried to start the car & it fired right up... Go figure... I drove home no problems. I guess I'm gonna have to rebuild my original block sooner than later.
The only real problem left is the popping radio. I cleaned all the grounds and added some extra ones to the alternator body & the first coil mount and from the intake to the firewall. Still popping the radio. the idle is right at 800 and solid & the motor runs good - no back-fires or misses or stumbles & it pulls good. Now I have to clean up the disaster area in my garage - I've got stuff everywhere & lots of filth to clean up.
Ramses666
Last edited by ramses666; 02-23-08 at 09:01 AM. Reason: missed something
02-25-08, 09:14 AM
#28
AAARRRGGGHHH!!! Drove out to the beach to watch the race on sunday... Went to leave & guess what... flooded again. %@!#%! I brought my bottle of ATF with long hose on it & gave it a shot into the manifold past the throttle plates. It still didn't start. Smelled like a chronic flooding.
I took a lighter to the exhaust tips.... The passenger side didn't do anything but DAMN! the drivers side shot fire a foot out the back...Almost burned the crap out of my fingers!! It didn't just go out either - it kept burning about 4 inches of fire out the tailpipe. I went & cranked the car with it still burning!! Shot flames 3ft.!!!! Some kids were riding by freaking out! It was almost funny. I had to run back and put my sneaker on the tailpipe to smother the flames.
I got under the dashboard on pulled the fuel pump relay connector out & then tried to start it. It fired up for a second & died. I re-attatched the relay wires and tried again & it started right up and I proceeded to kill all the bugs in the neighborhood with my massive smoke screen from pumping the damn thing full of ATF.
I drove home & took a detour out to the highway to do some redline pulls. It's pulling ok, but nothing more than it did with the old engine in it. I can't tell if the VDI is working or not. I got up this morning & added a switch for the fuel pump relay under the dash. My dad had put one in the rear side flap compartment years ago but I really don't think he did it correctly - it never really did anything.
I suppose I have a leaking primary injector on the front rotor. Since I have a true dual exhaust and only one side was flaming out the tailpipe. The fuel pump switch should help me mitigate the problem. Anybody know the difference in S4 & S5 FPR's? I'm using my S4 injectors with S5 fuel rails Maybe the difference in pressure regulators is messing with the injectors at start up & flooding it out. Although the apparent low compression is a concern - maybe it will improve a little over time - HAHAHA!!!
I just checked the 5th & 6th port actuation & the VDI with an air compressor - I held the air spray nozzle a few inches away from the hoses & they all activated just fine so we'll see. I had looped the hose from the header back pressure pipe around an AC line & it might have been pinching it some so I moved it. Maybe that will make a difference. It was kinda cool to see & hear the ports moving nicely.
That's about it for now.
Ramses666
I took a lighter to the exhaust tips.... The passenger side didn't do anything but DAMN! the drivers side shot fire a foot out the back...Almost burned the crap out of my fingers!! It didn't just go out either - it kept burning about 4 inches of fire out the tailpipe. I went & cranked the car with it still burning!! Shot flames 3ft.!!!! Some kids were riding by freaking out! It was almost funny. I had to run back and put my sneaker on the tailpipe to smother the flames.
I got under the dashboard on pulled the fuel pump relay connector out & then tried to start it. It fired up for a second & died. I re-attatched the relay wires and tried again & it started right up and I proceeded to kill all the bugs in the neighborhood with my massive smoke screen from pumping the damn thing full of ATF.
I drove home & took a detour out to the highway to do some redline pulls. It's pulling ok, but nothing more than it did with the old engine in it. I can't tell if the VDI is working or not. I got up this morning & added a switch for the fuel pump relay under the dash. My dad had put one in the rear side flap compartment years ago but I really don't think he did it correctly - it never really did anything.
I suppose I have a leaking primary injector on the front rotor. Since I have a true dual exhaust and only one side was flaming out the tailpipe. The fuel pump switch should help me mitigate the problem. Anybody know the difference in S4 & S5 FPR's? I'm using my S4 injectors with S5 fuel rails Maybe the difference in pressure regulators is messing with the injectors at start up & flooding it out. Although the apparent low compression is a concern - maybe it will improve a little over time - HAHAHA!!!
I just checked the 5th & 6th port actuation & the VDI with an air compressor - I held the air spray nozzle a few inches away from the hoses & they all activated just fine so we'll see. I had looped the hose from the header back pressure pipe around an AC line & it might have been pinching it some so I moved it. Maybe that will make a difference. It was kinda cool to see & hear the ports moving nicely.
That's about it for now.
Ramses666
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