RX7 problems
#27
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Wilmington, NC
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
scathcart:
"Shadow silver metallic was champagne?
I don't think they have that colour code for cdn cars"
It's a silverish color with a slight hint of rosewood, I call it champagne.
"Shadow silver metallic was champagne?
I don't think they have that colour code for cdn cars"
It's a silverish color with a slight hint of rosewood, I call it champagne.
#28
Originally posted by ncguy
MaxRX7:
In response to your post:
2 questions:
1-your car starts, but does it idle, do you have to give it gas to keep it from turning off, and
2-does the car have those automatic seatbelts
It would still start with a lot of effort and would idle. I thought something got wet and tried to run it up the road but it lacked power. Currently the battery is dead from sitting. It is not drivable as it is.
Yes, it has the automatic seat belts
MaxRX7:
In response to your post:
2 questions:
1-your car starts, but does it idle, do you have to give it gas to keep it from turning off, and
2-does the car have those automatic seatbelts
It would still start with a lot of effort and would idle. I thought something got wet and tried to run it up the road but it lacked power. Currently the battery is dead from sitting. It is not drivable as it is.
Yes, it has the automatic seat belts
Since your car has the automatic seat belts it's definately an S5(1989-1991).
#29
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Wilmington, NC
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
"Since your car has the automatic seat belts it's definately an S5(1989-1991)."
I know what year it is and what color it is, I'm surprised someone questioned me but...... oh well.
THANKS!
I know what year it is and what color it is, I'm surprised someone questioned me but...... oh well.
THANKS!
#31
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Racing Bear's Tepee
Posts: 286
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by ncguy
RunningDeer:
How do I contact these people?
RunningDeer:
How do I contact these people?
Also, try RX-7Club's SE RX-7 Forum. You might reach someone instantly.
Good Luck
Last edited by RunningDeer; 11-04-03 at 06:38 PM.
#32
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Wilmington, NC
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RunningDeer: THANKS!
5 point whoa: I'm going to do a bit more checking into getting it fixed before I decide to sell.
NOTE: A friend pulled out the back 2 spark plugs, turned it over and it sounded like very healthy compression. The back 2 were re-installed and the front 2 removed and again it sounded like very healthy compression. We did it again with all plugs removed and it still sounded very healthy. We got a lot of fuel during this process too, ? why
If it's still assumable that the problem is an Apex seal[s], how smart would it be to pull the engine, tear down and replace all of them [6 right?] then put it all back together? My friend thinks he can handle it but does not know enough about rotary's to tell me if this is a good idea or not. Is there anything else that should be addressed while apart? He's also not sure it's a compression problem and other than by "ear" he's not sure how to check it.
5 point whoa: I'm going to do a bit more checking into getting it fixed before I decide to sell.
NOTE: A friend pulled out the back 2 spark plugs, turned it over and it sounded like very healthy compression. The back 2 were re-installed and the front 2 removed and again it sounded like very healthy compression. We did it again with all plugs removed and it still sounded very healthy. We got a lot of fuel during this process too, ? why
If it's still assumable that the problem is an Apex seal[s], how smart would it be to pull the engine, tear down and replace all of them [6 right?] then put it all back together? My friend thinks he can handle it but does not know enough about rotary's to tell me if this is a good idea or not. Is there anything else that should be addressed while apart? He's also not sure it's a compression problem and other than by "ear" he's not sure how to check it.
#34
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Wilmington, NC
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
"you have to get an engine hoist(150$) and a stand with adaptor(100$)"
That's the least of my worries. My friend has a hoist, he's got a home garage where he works on weekends [mostly his own stuff] and I'm sure he could make an adapter if necessary, he didn't mention it being a problem and knows the enine would have to come out.
I just need to know if I'm heading in the right direction or wasting my time and $. Neither of us know much about rotary motors but he said he'd give it a shot.
That's the least of my worries. My friend has a hoist, he's got a home garage where he works on weekends [mostly his own stuff] and I'm sure he could make an adapter if necessary, he didn't mention it being a problem and knows the enine would have to come out.
I just need to know if I'm heading in the right direction or wasting my time and $. Neither of us know much about rotary motors but he said he'd give it a shot.
#37
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Daytona Beach, FL
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you decide to open the engine with your friend you may not want to just replace the apex seals. There are I beleive 2 or 4 Oil O-Ring seals a Front and Rear main seal and all the corner seals for each apex. There are also I think 6 side seals per rotor as well. (Don't quote me on the numbers.) Assuming an Apex S. was the problem it would suck to have the old O-Rings or one of the old engine seals blow leaving you no choice but to tear it up again. If you rip up the engine make sure to get a full rebuild kit unless a seal really looks good and re-usable. No tears etc.
#38
Poor Lil' Kid
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Wilmington NC
Posts: 1,504
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
if you do it you definately need to change all of the oil-o-rings, or it will smoke really bad, and you should probably go ahaed and change the sideseals too. and the corner seals would need to be changed. I made up a kit at mazdatrix, and with all the things I just posted , it's like 650$
#39
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Wilmington, NC
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RunningDeer: No, I have not done a tune up. The way it happended, seemingly overnight, I assumed it was not merely a need for a tune up. There was an increasingly worsening problem before this happended. With the A/C on it would stall when it came to a stop [most of the time] which I was told was a sign of low compression. It would run superb at highway speeds as well as on acceleration though. One morning it just started and ran like crap almost like it was flooded. I'd hate to think it's something as simple as a tune up after I'd sell it on the belief it needed susbstantial engine work.
C-Ross'90'RX-7: I wasn't clear but I meant anything else necessary to replace as well as the Apex seals in the procedure. I had no idea what all was in there ntil I did some research last evening.
5 point whoa: I was pricing the kits last evening, WOW! this stuff is expensive. I don't know if I'm willing to "invest" $5-$1000 just to be let down but on the other hand I hate to practically give it away. I think it's on it's way southwards to my buddy's shop just for a more indepth look but a bit more of a better offer may halt that trip
C-Ross'90'RX-7: I wasn't clear but I meant anything else necessary to replace as well as the Apex seals in the procedure. I had no idea what all was in there ntil I did some research last evening.
5 point whoa: I was pricing the kits last evening, WOW! this stuff is expensive. I don't know if I'm willing to "invest" $5-$1000 just to be let down but on the other hand I hate to practically give it away. I think it's on it's way southwards to my buddy's shop just for a more indepth look but a bit more of a better offer may halt that trip
#40
infini guru
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 1,183
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rebuilding the motor is serious task to undertake by yourself(or even with a friend), especially if you're unfamiliar with rotaries. Plan on spending a lot of time on the project if you decide to go this route. Atkins, I think, makes a video on how to rebuild your engine. That would be a healthy investment.
Steve
P.S. By healthy sounding compression, you mean you heard three puffs in a row, correct? Like I said before, if a compression check hasn't been performed by someone who knows what they're doing, get that done FIRST.
Steve
P.S. By healthy sounding compression, you mean you heard three puffs in a row, correct? Like I said before, if a compression check hasn't been performed by someone who knows what they're doing, get that done FIRST.
#41
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Wilmington, NC
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Are there any special tools/procedures needed once inside the engine or is pretty much straight forward? My buddy has never worked on a rotary motor but he is a an ASE certifed master technician. He has faith it will go smoothly and he's really interested in learning more about the rotary which is why he's willing to help me gratus on the labor end. If I went ahead with the rebuild kit, helping as much as I could offer my buddy, would I have a reliable engine afterwards or are there other things that should be done while it's apart? I guess I could also factor in a tune up kit as mentioned above, trying that approach first before any further teardown and if it is no improvement I'd have the parts for the rebuilt motor. I've read conflicting stories, some say a rebuilt rotary will run crappy until it "breaks in". I guess if after I spent the $ to rebuild it I'd be upset if it still ran crappy. Keep in mind this vehicle is now only a pleasure car not a necessity for daily transportation which is why I hesitate going forward only to be sorry with the results when the $ could be spent elsewhere on more important things. I know any results are based on the fact of if it was done right which leads me to ask if a non rotary knowledgable mechanic should even attempt to fix it.
THANKS!
THANKS!
#42
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Wilmington, NC
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
MtnRacer: Thanks for your insight on the degree of difficulty of the rebuild itself. One of my concerns is, does my buddy really know what he's getting into?
As far as compression, in all 3 "tests" [2 rear plugs removed, 2 fronts removed and then all removed] there was a very distinct and healthy puff of PST, PST, PST as well as a visible mist as the engine cranked. I was told a compression test was done when I had the engine stalling problem with the A/C on. At that time [appx April] I was told the car will need a rebuild soon. Now, I don't know how an actual more technical compression test is done but my buddy said he did not have the appropriate tool however he said going strictly by the sound/pressure only it sounded/felt "exceedingly strong". The local Mazda dealer here is a joke at best and I really don't trust their opinion.
As far as compression, in all 3 "tests" [2 rear plugs removed, 2 fronts removed and then all removed] there was a very distinct and healthy puff of PST, PST, PST as well as a visible mist as the engine cranked. I was told a compression test was done when I had the engine stalling problem with the A/C on. At that time [appx April] I was told the car will need a rebuild soon. Now, I don't know how an actual more technical compression test is done but my buddy said he did not have the appropriate tool however he said going strictly by the sound/pressure only it sounded/felt "exceedingly strong". The local Mazda dealer here is a joke at best and I really don't trust their opinion.
#43
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Wilmington, NC
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
An added note, the spark plugs that are in it currently are Autolites. RunningDeer mentioned specifically "NGK spark plugs" above, is that a Mazda reference or?.
#44
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Racing Bear's Tepee
Posts: 286
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Definitely, NGK plugs are a must and easily verifiable by searching here and/other RX7 sites. The correct plugs are NGK- BUR9EQ and BUR7EQ.. 2-trailing (Top holes) and 2 Leading (Lower). Also, based on your friends compression results, it appears there's a very possible simplier solution to the running problems as you've described. FWIW, as a general rule, start with simple and least expensive fix(es) before expensive routes
Whatever your final decision, Good Luck
Whatever your final decision, Good Luck
#45
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Wilmington, NC
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
"The correct plugs are NGK- BUR9EQ and BUR7EQ.. 2-trailing (Top holes) and 2 Leading (Bottom)"
Are these Mazda specific plugs? Who is the manufacturer [Autolite, Champion, etc...]? Where do I get them?
Are you saying there are 2 different plugs, 1 pair [BUR9EQ] for the top and another different pair [BUR7EQ] for the bottom?
I plan on starting at the cheapest level first, obviously the info is free here [but very valuable and appreciated] and you guys know what you're talking about unlike the YoYo's I've spoken with elsewhere, which is the reason it's sat untouched for months. One person [at Autozone] yesterday told me there was no such thing as a rotary motor, I just walked out. It's really a disadvantage not knowing everything about the car myself but someone employed in the automotive industry I trusted knew what they were doing is pathetic.
Are these Mazda specific plugs? Who is the manufacturer [Autolite, Champion, etc...]? Where do I get them?
Are you saying there are 2 different plugs, 1 pair [BUR9EQ] for the top and another different pair [BUR7EQ] for the bottom?
I plan on starting at the cheapest level first, obviously the info is free here [but very valuable and appreciated] and you guys know what you're talking about unlike the YoYo's I've spoken with elsewhere, which is the reason it's sat untouched for months. One person [at Autozone] yesterday told me there was no such thing as a rotary motor, I just walked out. It's really a disadvantage not knowing everything about the car myself but someone employed in the automotive industry I trusted knew what they were doing is pathetic.
#46
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Racing Bear's Tepee
Posts: 286
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by ncguy
"The correct plugs are NGK- BUR9EQ and BUR7EQ.. 2-trailing (Top holes) and 2 Leading (Bottom)"
Are these Mazda specific plugs? Who is the manufacturer [Autolite, Champion, etc...]? Where do I get them?
I'm not positive on Mazda specific. NGK is the manufacturer :-) Buy at the dealer, since you need them now. In the future, they're available from www.mazdaformance.com and several other online sources.
Are you saying there are 2 different plugs, 1 pair [BUR9EQ] for the top and another different pair [BUR7EQ] for the bottom?
Correct and it's shown right on the box.
I plan on starting at the cheapest level first, obviously the info is free here [but very valuable and appreciated] and you guys know what you're talking about unlike the YoYo's I've spoken with elsewhere, which is the reason it's sat untouched for months. One person [at Autozone] yesterday told me there was no such thing as a rotary motor, I just walked out. It's really a disadvantage not knowing everything about the car myself but someone employed in the automotive industry I trusted knew what they were doing is pathetic.
"The correct plugs are NGK- BUR9EQ and BUR7EQ.. 2-trailing (Top holes) and 2 Leading (Bottom)"
Are these Mazda specific plugs? Who is the manufacturer [Autolite, Champion, etc...]? Where do I get them?
I'm not positive on Mazda specific. NGK is the manufacturer :-) Buy at the dealer, since you need them now. In the future, they're available from www.mazdaformance.com and several other online sources.
Are you saying there are 2 different plugs, 1 pair [BUR9EQ] for the top and another different pair [BUR7EQ] for the bottom?
Correct and it's shown right on the box.
I plan on starting at the cheapest level first, obviously the info is free here [but very valuable and appreciated] and you guys know what you're talking about unlike the YoYo's I've spoken with elsewhere, which is the reason it's sat untouched for months. One person [at Autozone] yesterday told me there was no such thing as a rotary motor, I just walked out. It's really a disadvantage not knowing everything about the car myself but someone employed in the automotive industry I trusted knew what they were doing is pathetic.
Last edited by RunningDeer; 11-05-03 at 10:23 AM.
#47
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Racing Bear's Tepee
Posts: 286
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by ncguy
RunningDeer: No, I have not done a tune up. The way it happended, seemingly overnight, I assumed it was not merely a need for a tune up. There was an increasingly worsening problem before this happended. With the A/C on it would stall when it came to a stop [most of the time] which I was told was a sign of low compression. It would run superb at highway speeds as well as on acceleration though. One morning it just started and ran like crap almost like it was flooded. I'd hate to think it's something as simple as a tune up after I'd sell it on the belief it needed susbstantial engine work.
(Snip)
RunningDeer: No, I have not done a tune up. The way it happended, seemingly overnight, I assumed it was not merely a need for a tune up. There was an increasingly worsening problem before this happended. With the A/C on it would stall when it came to a stop [most of the time] which I was told was a sign of low compression. It would run superb at highway speeds as well as on acceleration though. One morning it just started and ran like crap almost like it was flooded. I'd hate to think it's something as simple as a tune up after I'd sell it on the belief it needed susbstantial engine work.
(Snip)
Flooding is consistent with dirty injectors. Try using a good fuel injector cleaner, and/or possibly a fuel cut-off switch, but the best fix is getting the injectors professionally cleaned.
Hope this is helpful.
Last edited by RunningDeer; 11-05-03 at 11:11 AM.