ncguy

RunningDeer:

How do I contact these people?

ncguy

scathcart:

"Shadow silver metallic was champagne?
I don't think they have that colour code for cdn cars"

It's a silverish color with a slight hint of rosewood, I call it champagne.

MaxRX7

I see, well mine doesn't idle because there the engine in my car has low compression on the rear rotor. If your car lacks power something is definately wrong and low compression is likely the cause as well.

Since your car has the automatic seat belts it's definately an S5(1989-1991).

ncguy

"Since your car has the automatic seat belts it's definately an S5(1989-1991)."

I know what year it is and what color it is, I'm surprised someone questioned me but...... oh well.

THANKS!

5 point whoa

I'll still buy it

RunningDeer

Here you go: >http://www.msccnc.org

Also, try RX-7Club's SE RX-7 Forum. You might reach someone instantly.

Good Luck

ncguy

RunningDeer: THANKS!

5 point whoa: I'm going to do a bit more checking into getting it fixed before I decide to sell.

NOTE: A friend pulled out the back 2 spark plugs, turned it over and it sounded like very healthy compression. The back 2 were re-installed and the front 2 removed and again it sounded like very healthy compression. We did it again with all plugs removed and it still sounded very healthy. We got a lot of fuel during this process too, ? why

If it's still assumable that the problem is an Apex seal[s], how smart would it be to pull the engine, tear down and replace all of them [6 right?] then put it all back together? My friend thinks he can handle it but does not know enough about rotary's to tell me if this is a good idea or not. Is there anything else that should be addressed while apart? He's also not sure it's a compression problem and other than by "ear" he's not sure how to check it.

5 point whoa

you have to get an engine hoist(150$) and a stand with adaptor(100$)

ncguy

"you have to get an engine hoist(150$) and a stand with adaptor(100$)"

That's the least of my worries. My friend has a hoist, he's got a home garage where he works on weekends [mostly his own stuff] and I'm sure he could make an adapter if necessary, he didn't mention it being a problem and knows the enine would have to come out.

I just need to know if I'm heading in the right direction or wasting my time and $. Neither of us know much about rotary motors but he said he'd give it a shot.

ncguy

BTW: a guy at the Mazda dealership in Myrtle Beach said he'd buy it as well, IF I ultimately decide to go that route.

RunningDeer

ncguy, Have you done a tuneup, NGK sparkplugs, wires, fuel filter, air filter, etc?

C-Ross'90'RX-7

If you decide to open the engine with your friend you may not want to just replace the apex seals. There are I beleive 2 or 4 Oil O-Ring seals a Front and Rear main seal and all the corner seals for each apex. There are also I think 6 side seals per rotor as well. (Don't quote me on the numbers.) Assuming an Apex S. was the problem it would suck to have the old O-Rings or one of the old engine seals blow leaving you no choice but to tear it up again. If you rip up the engine make sure to get a full rebuild kit unless a seal really looks good and re-usable. No tears etc.

5 point whoa

if you do it you definately need to change all of the oil-o-rings, or it will smoke really bad, and you should probably go ahaed and change the sideseals too. and the corner seals would need to be changed. I made up a kit at mazdatrix, and with all the things I just posted , it's like 650$

ncguy

RunningDeer: No, I have not done a tune up. The way it happended, seemingly overnight, I assumed it was not merely a need for a tune up. There was an increasingly worsening problem before this happended. With the A/C on it would stall when it came to a stop [most of the time] which I was told was a sign of low compression. It would run superb at highway speeds as well as on acceleration though. One morning it just started and ran like crap almost like it was flooded. I'd hate to think it's something as simple as a tune up after I'd sell it on the belief it needed susbstantial engine work.

C-Ross'90'RX-7: I wasn't clear but I meant anything else necessary to replace as well as the Apex seals in the procedure. I had no idea what all was in there ntil I did some research last evening.

5 point whoa: I was pricing the kits last evening, WOW! this stuff is expensive. I don't know if I'm willing to "invest" $5-$1000 just to be let down but on the other hand I hate to practically give it away. I think it's on it's way southwards to my buddy's shop just for a more indepth look but a bit more of a better offer may halt that trip

MtnRacer

Rebuilding the motor is serious task to undertake by yourself(or even with a friend), especially if you're unfamiliar with rotaries. Plan on spending a lot of time on the project if you decide to go this route. Atkins, I think, makes a video on how to rebuild your engine. That would be a healthy investment.

Steve

P.S. By healthy sounding compression, you mean you heard three puffs in a row, correct? Like I said before, if a compression check hasn't been performed by someone who knows what they're doing, get that done FIRST.

ncguy

Are there any special tools/procedures needed once inside the engine or is pretty much straight forward? My buddy has never worked on a rotary motor but he is a an ASE certifed master technician. He has faith it will go smoothly and he's really interested in learning more about the rotary which is why he's willing to help me gratus on the labor end. If I went ahead with the rebuild kit, helping as much as I could offer my buddy, would I have a reliable engine afterwards or are there other things that should be done while it's apart? I guess I could also factor in a tune up kit as mentioned above, trying that approach first before any further teardown and if it is no improvement I'd have the parts for the rebuilt motor. I've read conflicting stories, some say a rebuilt rotary will run crappy until it "breaks in". I guess if after I spent the $ to rebuild it I'd be upset if it still ran crappy. Keep in mind this vehicle is now only a pleasure car not a necessity for daily transportation which is why I hesitate going forward only to be sorry with the results when the $ could be spent elsewhere on more important things. I know any results are based on the fact of if it was done right which leads me to ask if a non rotary knowledgable mechanic should even attempt to fix it.

THANKS!

ncguy

MtnRacer: Thanks for your insight on the degree of difficulty of the rebuild itself. One of my concerns is, does my buddy really know what he's getting into?

As far as compression, in all 3 "tests" [2 rear plugs removed, 2 fronts removed and then all removed] there was a very distinct and healthy puff of PST, PST, PST as well as a visible mist as the engine cranked. I was told a compression test was done when I had the engine stalling problem with the A/C on. At that time [appx April] I was told the car will need a rebuild soon. Now, I don't know how an actual more technical compression test is done but my buddy said he did not have the appropriate tool however he said going strictly by the sound/pressure only it sounded/felt "exceedingly strong". The local Mazda dealer here is a joke at best and I really don't trust their opinion.

ncguy

An added note, the spark plugs that are in it currently are Autolites. RunningDeer mentioned specifically "NGK spark plugs" above, is that a Mazda reference or?.

RunningDeer

Definitely, NGK plugs are a must and easily verifiable by searching here and/other RX7 sites. The correct plugs are NGK- BUR9EQ and BUR7EQ.. 2-trailing (Top holes) and 2 Leading (Lower). Also, based on your friends compression results, it appears there's a very possible simplier solution to the running problems as you've described. FWIW, as a general rule, start with simple and least expensive fix(es) before expensive routes

Whatever your final decision, Good Luck

ncguy

"The correct plugs are NGK- BUR9EQ and BUR7EQ.. 2-trailing (Top holes) and 2 Leading (Bottom)"

Are these Mazda specific plugs? Who is the manufacturer [Autolite, Champion, etc...]? Where do I get them?

Are you saying there are 2 different plugs, 1 pair [BUR9EQ] for the top and another different pair [BUR7EQ] for the bottom?

I plan on starting at the cheapest level first, obviously the info is free here [but very valuable and appreciated] and you guys know what you're talking about unlike the YoYo's I've spoken with elsewhere, which is the reason it's sat untouched for months. One person [at Autozone] yesterday told me there was no such thing as a rotary motor, I just walked out. It's really a disadvantage not knowing everything about the car myself but someone employed in the automotive industry I trusted knew what they were doing is pathetic.

RunningDeer

Good show

RunningDeer

From what little I've learned, a basic tuneup can significantly improve or eliminate start/running issues and a thorough tuneup seems appropriate at this point. As to the A/C and compression, sounds like pure nonsense to me Adjusting the BAC valve is more likely. It's responsible for idle under load conditions. Take a good look at the FSM section 4A (Fuel & Emissions) available free at: >http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...ual/1986_1988/
Flooding is consistent with dirty injectors. Try using a good fuel injector cleaner, and/or possibly a fuel cut-off switch, but the best fix is getting the injectors professionally cleaned.
Hope this is helpful.

reyes fuentes

i got a 87 rx7 new motor but electrical problem can any one give me some pointers or buy it doesnt start cause electrical

5 point whoa

umm, ya prolly dont need to waste your money on a tune up when you need to save it for a rebuild

PureSephiroth

check the compression yourself. Make damn sure that the engine has poor compression before you do ANYTHING.