The sport was about 2650 pounds
11.014666 P/w Maybe after I build up my car I will drop by Fl and kick that guys ***. I think I am lighter than that though. and will be even lighter later on. I love having a light *** car.

 

the rwp of the Vr4 is around 240rwp ( the 300hp versions.) all wheel drive kilz.

 

streetport N/A won't beat a VR4. i hate to admit it. The vr4 does 0-60 in 5.7, only a bridgeport could beat that.

Nope I would have to disagree. I almost beat him on stock ports from a roll. NOt from a stop but from a roll and my responsivness I was only 2 cars behind 15-100 stock ports. I would anialate him with my new engine. ( sig) and even beat him from a stop

 

An NA FC (healthy) with a full exhaust will likely be quicker than an NA SL 3000GT bc of the GT's seriously porky weight and gearing. If you want to drag race a VR4 get another car On the other hand an NA FC with about 150 rwhp (all your reg. bolt ons), some decent coilovers and quality tires will walk away from a VR4 on a road course...even a VR4 with some suspension work. They are WAY too heavy for actual road racing and their pork makes them push and understeer and respond poorly to driver input. NA FC's may not be able to make a ton of power but a properly setup car will embarrass cars making twice the power on an actual race track. A couple of people here have nicely done SCCA cars and the only car I have trouble with in SCCA with our shops 325I (stripped, NA, slicks - it's a race car) is an NA FC who has lapped people in several races. His car is very well setup and he can DRIVE - simply put he's a killer in the corners. You catch up to him on the straights and he simply disappears in the twisties. I have lots of in car video (much to my teams discontent) hehe Our head driver/mechanic actually wants to throw a cage and slicks on MY car and compete!!! Thats actually all I need

 

Lighten your car as much as possible. REMOVE spare, jack, chock, lug wrench, charcoal can, A/C, P/S, heavy stereo, get 'vert BBS wheels (they are the LIGHTEST), and remove anything else you do not absolutely need to drive the car. If you are FAT, lose weight. Never go with more than 1/4 tank of gas. Full race exhaust and intake. You will beat him is you do this.

 

DUDE THAT SOUNDS AWESOME!, For some of the great people on this forum i thank you for given me ur advice and what not to do and what to do. Now gran master VON where can i buy all this things? ANd just to be double sure u are saying that with 1700 bucks i can get my FC between the 180-190 hp range? nOW I THINK their is a lil misanderstanding here, the guy doin the porting job said he was only gonna do teh exhaust hoel steh ones on teh housings, NO MANIFOLD INCLUDED!, i aske dhim to do this becaus ei don't want to waste gas, i want my gas milage to be maybe a lil lower but have teh reliabily for my engien to last at leats anotehr 80-90k miles. Im getting 2 used rotor housings with less than 90k on them is that cool? or should i just reuse my front housing and front rotor?? my rear rotor and rotor hosuing are probably F&^%&% up. Since as of rightn now my car won't hit the 100mph mark no matter how hard i push on the gas.

 

One thing about power/weight ratio you have to consider is that power is not constant, it is particularly bad on our cars (low at low rpm, gains quickly above 5500)
a VR-4 probably has loads more torque at lower rpms

 

ONE THING!

IF ANYONE ELSE ON THIS THREAD SAYS ANYTHING ABOUT A VR4 AGAIN IM GONNA CRY. I KNOW A VR4 CAN WHIP MY *** ANYDAY OF THE WEEK, EVEN BLINDFOLDED FOR CRYING OUT LOUD, IF I WANTED TO RACE A MONSTER LIKE A VR4 OR A 450 HP SUPRA I GO AN BUY AN FD!. BUT I DON'T have that kind of money or resorces to get an fd as of now, besides i love how my fc looks and will keep it until a drastic change in my life happens ( my girlfriend leaves me for a guy driving a lancer evo8 or some crazy **** like that for now my ex- girlfriend left me for a guy driving a honda civic ex 2001 edition so even with one rotor I can blow his ***). tru tru

 

I wouldn't call the VR4 a "monster", it's the worst sports car from japan IMO. Personally, I really hate 3000GT's, hate the looks, performance, everything.
I really like the rotary powerband, especially mine. Nice linear torque curve, and power that grows as the engine goes higher. In a piston engine you get a big torque peak, then crap. In my car, it's okay up to 4000, then it gets stronger, then you get a kick at 5000 as the compression builds, then a big kick at ~6000 when the VDI comes on.

 

uh power curve crap. Well the only thing that makes that matter would be if you stay down there. I launch at about 3000rpm and I am gone from there. after that I never see low RPMs while racing.

 

Yea well, you rx7's are gonna know about my SOHC when its done this summer You'll think it was a VR-4/TT and then when you read how I slaughtered you on the 3si kill section, Ill just rant about how your cars are heavy junk, no go, pigs, ect.

 

hahahaha that is funny but you are setting yourself up bro. Better put on your flame suit. Any car can be made fast as hell. Money is all it takes.

 

all I need is 2500 bro

 

if your talking about putting on a SC or turbo or even TT then evidently you haven't added in the price for the new fuel system, fuel system controller, LSD, rebuilt trans and the various other parts it takes to fix up a N/A 3000GT. i use to own one, i know quite alot about them.

 

How much HP should that get you?

 

Ok i dont know what you guys run but here is the low down on 3000Gts

NA- a good 5 speed driver should be able to take the car to 60 in mid 6's and should finish the 1/4 mile in high 14s( excelent driver)- mid low 15s( average driver) at around 91-93 mph

I know we are not talking about vr-4s but to clarify the story a stock vr-4 with someone who knows how to launch the car will do 0-60 in 4.7-4.8 ( magazine testers dont know how to drive the car) and will do the 1/4 mile in around a mid 13 ( 94-99) and a mid to high 13 ( 91-93). To say that a vr4 does not respond well to mods im sorry but is just plain ignorant, you up the boost to 14.5 psi gut the cats and put a filter on it and its a low 13 second high 12 second car ( all for the cost of about $100).

To be honest i dont think that the vr-4s are the worst of the japanese supercars. Mitsu did under engineered them with the small turbos and shitty fuel system, which is why the power drops off up top. But if you upgrade the turbos and fuel system you are going to have a hell of a street car that can pull like a **** top end and still have the ability to launch pretty much any car on the streets ( without slicks)

Once again i dont know much about yalls cars but you can refer to those times stock to compare

 

Actually if you know how to do the work yourself and shop around you can get the full conversion for about 2500

 

Im not doing a SC or a turbo....besides, the 3si community will know at the end of summer when its done.

 

it better be good, i don't think there is too much hope for SOHC ( i hate to say it ...but you know) are you dropping a SBC into it or something? that would get you fast for about $2500

 

0-60 in 5.7??? wtf?? lol try 4.9 stock on an agressive launch. mine wiht big turbos'll do 3.9x. they're no slouch, fast as hell. they also run low 13's COMPLETELY STOCK. the weight can be dealt with. i know a guy with a un-gutted rt-tt that weighs 3380 lbs.

 

I have raced one of those stealths they are ok but not fast. Wait aren't those the photo copy cars of the 3k GT?

 

all will be posted at the end of summer, with time slips to back it up.

 

hahahahaha 3380 lbs.

hahahahahahahaha
sorry I just can't stop laughing at that number. try 2650 lbs. stock weight. minus 100 pounds of stuff and I still have the spare and jack.

 

The ignorance spewing out of some of you is unbelievable. 5k redline? 3900lbs? slow as hell?

I would honestly laugh at an n/a 80's model rx7. If this guy is getting ported heads then he definitly has a few more mods done (AT LEAST intake and exhaust). You're starting out with aprox 147hp at the FLYWHEEL. We hit more than that at the tires 100% stock.

If this guy has a 1997 maybe you'll get lucky and he'll have the 164hp base model (if his rims arent chrome- base model).

Anyway, if this guy has heads, intake, exhaust, etc.. You'll be fucked unless you go forced induction or a nice shot of nitrous. We're very capable of running high 14's stock and even dipping well into the 12's with a $3000 turbo kit (yes, FWD).

It REALLY seems that 3si people are the only owners that actually know TRUE facts about other high performance cars. You go to any other forum and all of a sudden vr4's weigh 4200lb's and cant get any better than a 15sec 1/4. bleh..

get your facts straight. Either put that $3000 into a nice turbo kit or prepared to get owned.

 

yeah the rt/tt's have AWD and AWS which adds like a ton of weight. they also came with stuff that was a little too luxury , like adjustable suspension, leather interior and back seats! haha

*note- and yes stealths are roughly the same as 3000gts', they are a tad lighter i believe