running rich....know where the adjustment screw is?
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running rich....know where the adjustment screw is?
my car is running very rich and im getting poor mpg's. i was wondering where are all the adjustment screws. i have seen a couple but not no clue what they adjust. if anyone can let me know which one does what and where a good stock setting is, it would help me very much. im sure the info is on here somewhere but damn theres alot of info here....i love it... thanks
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my car is running very rich and im getting poor mpg's. i was wondering where are all the adjustment screws. i have seen a couple but not no clue what they adjust. if anyone can let me know which one does what and where a good stock setting is, it would help me very much. im sure the info is on here somewhere but damn theres alot of info here....i love it... thanks
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thanks i priced one out today for like 45 bucks and i had to put a new alternator on today.so i hope this isn't turning into a money pit. i did see another adjustment screw with a rod going down the front of the motor. it was link to the tb. any ideas what that does?
#9
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It goes to the Oil Metering Pump. (OMP).
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#11
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The OMP rod is connected to the throttle linkage at the front of the car and it uses a Cotter pin and there is no screw involved. There is a round head screw in this linkage that is surrounded by a spring and it is about an inch long or so. This is the TPS adjustment screw.
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thats the one i saw the tps adjustment(still don't understand what the rods for?). i was searching around on the form last night and found some info on how to adjust it. looks like there are two ways you can go about adjusting it. which one do you think is the best/easiest?
#14
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What are you trying to adjust? The rod or the TPS screw? If it's the TPS screw then you measure the voltage of the Green/Red wire in the TPS pigtail w/key to on after the car has been driven for 20 minutes or so to thoroughly warm the engine up and the voltage on the G/R wire should be 1 volt. Adjust screw until the voltage reading indicates 1 volt.
#15
Sharp Claws
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leave the OMP system alone, IGNORE the rod.... the screw on the front of the throttle body cam is what is used to adjust the TPS, easiest method is the 1 volt method with the car warmed up and idling.
as far as crappy mileage goes, get used to it. natas actually gave the best advice to install an SAFC if you want to improve fuel mileage some to recoup the money spent on the SAFC. i have dealt with some people who have had me chase all over their car to get better fuel mileage, spending hundreds and winding up only a hair ahead of where they were. city mileage in these cars sucks without any method of adjusting fuel usage on your own.
replace the O2 sensor if you want, it only affects mileage by about 2% on a good day. these are first generation EFI setups, you have to remember that and think of it as a commodore 64 compared to computers of today.
as far as crappy mileage goes, get used to it. natas actually gave the best advice to install an SAFC if you want to improve fuel mileage some to recoup the money spent on the SAFC. i have dealt with some people who have had me chase all over their car to get better fuel mileage, spending hundreds and winding up only a hair ahead of where they were. city mileage in these cars sucks without any method of adjusting fuel usage on your own.
replace the O2 sensor if you want, it only affects mileage by about 2% on a good day. these are first generation EFI setups, you have to remember that and think of it as a commodore 64 compared to computers of today.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 10-18-11 at 11:03 AM.
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thanks guys....my mileage isn't that bad but it smell very rich coming out of the exhaust. i have been think about do a swap so i don't want to spend too much money on this motor/set up. but i will probably have to wait until next fall/winter to do the swap. just trying to get it to run leaner until then.im going to try to do that adjustment when i get some free time. thanks for the advice.
#17
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there is also the variable resistor right by the RF strut tower, next to the pressure sensor.
remove the blind cap, idle the engine below 1k RPMs, set the TPS and timing then adjust the screw on the resistor counterclockwise until the engine just starts to stumble then turn it 1/8 turn clockwise. if it still smells rich you have a fuel system issue or a cat that is on it's way to the pet cemetery.
remove the blind cap, idle the engine below 1k RPMs, set the TPS and timing then adjust the screw on the resistor counterclockwise until the engine just starts to stumble then turn it 1/8 turn clockwise. if it still smells rich you have a fuel system issue or a cat that is on it's way to the pet cemetery.
#19
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not really
book sais certain things to be sure that the car is attempting to meet the perameters needed, like timing the engine below 1k RPMs(i never bother with the set coupler). all you need to do is be sure it is actually idled down below 1k. at least i have always noticed it make a difference unless the resistor was faulty or the system had an issue that leaning/richening it up via the resistor had almost no effect(initially far too rich).
book sais certain things to be sure that the car is attempting to meet the perameters needed, like timing the engine below 1k RPMs(i never bother with the set coupler). all you need to do is be sure it is actually idled down below 1k. at least i have always noticed it make a difference unless the resistor was faulty or the system had an issue that leaning/richening it up via the resistor had almost no effect(initially far too rich).
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 10-18-11 at 11:44 AM.
#20
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not really
book sais certain things to be sure that the car is attempting to meet the perameters needed, like timing the engine below 1k RPMs(i never bother with the set coupler). all you need to do is be sure it is actually idled down below 1k. at least i have always noticed it make a difference unless the resistor was faulty or the system had an issue that leaning/richening it up via the resistor had almost no effect(initially far too rich).
book sais certain things to be sure that the car is attempting to meet the perameters needed, like timing the engine below 1k RPMs(i never bother with the set coupler). all you need to do is be sure it is actually idled down below 1k. at least i have always noticed it make a difference unless the resistor was faulty or the system had an issue that leaning/richening it up via the resistor had almost no effect(initially far too rich).
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i agree, i do think the initial set coupler keeps the BAC at a certain duty cycle, but i also set the mixture without it. the fixed BAC helps much more for setting the base idle speed.
for the MPG/smelling rich question, i just replaced the O2 in a car to get it past smog. the old O2 was toast, and the car was running really lean (in the area where the o2 is used, which is basically the smog test), so i think the new O2 is going to hurt mileage
for the MPG/smelling rich question, i just replaced the O2 in a car to get it past smog. the old O2 was toast, and the car was running really lean (in the area where the o2 is used, which is basically the smog test), so i think the new O2 is going to hurt mileage
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there is also the variable resistor right by the RF strut tower, next to the pressure sensor.
remove the blind cap, idle the engine below 1k RPMs, set the TPS and timing then adjust the screw on the resistor counterclockwise until the engine just starts to stumble then turn it 1/8 turn clockwise. if it still smells rich you have a fuel system issue or a cat that is on it's way to the pet cemetery.
remove the blind cap, idle the engine below 1k RPMs, set the TPS and timing then adjust the screw on the resistor counterclockwise until the engine just starts to stumble then turn it 1/8 turn clockwise. if it still smells rich you have a fuel system issue or a cat that is on it's way to the pet cemetery.