Running lean w/ no mods....
01-14-05, 05:58 PM
#26
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Just to cover my bottom again........I assume the acv works the same on a series five as on a series four. I have a series four, and what I wrote above DOES apply to that series. I see no reason the series five would not work the same. I did not take the time to look at a series five fsm to find out. Too much bother.
The above posts would explain a problem at idle, but does not explain the problem at higher settings. The problem being higher afrs on your dyno.
It makes me wonder if your acv is working right. Above 3800 rpm the acv should dump all the air into the right fender.
Do this with a fully warmed up engine. Pull the approx one inch hose off the bottom of your acv. Put your finger over the hole in the acv. You might feel a small leakage of air coming out. Now rev the engine above 3800 rpm. The air should now blast out of that large hole on the bottom of the acv. If it does not, then there is a problem with the Relief solenoid or one or both hose that run from the acv to the Relief Solenoid and then back to the acv.
A quick jury rig for running on a dyno, would be to run the small hose on the very bottom of the acv to the nipple on the acv that is in the middle of the acv. That would make the Relief valve in the acv come off its base and dump air all the time overboard or at least til you get off the dyno.
The above posts would explain a problem at idle, but does not explain the problem at higher settings. The problem being higher afrs on your dyno.
It makes me wonder if your acv is working right. Above 3800 rpm the acv should dump all the air into the right fender.
Do this with a fully warmed up engine. Pull the approx one inch hose off the bottom of your acv. Put your finger over the hole in the acv. You might feel a small leakage of air coming out. Now rev the engine above 3800 rpm. The air should now blast out of that large hole on the bottom of the acv. If it does not, then there is a problem with the Relief solenoid or one or both hose that run from the acv to the Relief Solenoid and then back to the acv.
A quick jury rig for running on a dyno, would be to run the small hose on the very bottom of the acv to the nipple on the acv that is in the middle of the acv. That would make the Relief valve in the acv come off its base and dump air all the time overboard or at least til you get off the dyno.
01-15-05, 12:17 PM
#29
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I'm adding a jpg of the acv. On the picture I point to the hole that feeds the Split Air Pipe and the hole/poppet that feeds the exaust ports. The Port Air hole matches the checkvalve that is installed on the manifold.
The Split Air Pipe hole is pitifully small compared to the Port Air hole.
The Split Air Pipe hole is pitifully small compared to the Port Air hole.
01-15-05, 01:50 PM
#32
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What is the ACV for? Where is it located in the car?
Oh, and how are 02 sensor readings supposed to be accurate if air is getting pumped into the exhaust. Are wideband 02 sensors only good for people who've removed their airpump on RX7s?
Oh, and how are 02 sensor readings supposed to be accurate if air is getting pumped into the exhaust. Are wideband 02 sensors only good for people who've removed their airpump on RX7s?
01-15-05, 03:10 PM
#33
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Originally Posted by JackoliciousLegs
What is the ACV for? Where is it located in the car?
Oh, and how are 02 sensor readings supposed to be accurate if air is getting pumped into the exhaust. Are wideband 02 sensors only good for people who've removed their airpump on RX7s?
Oh, and how are 02 sensor readings supposed to be accurate if air is getting pumped into the exhaust. Are wideband 02 sensors only good for people who've removed their airpump on RX7s?
The ACV is on the right side of the engine, just below the BAC.
The airpump should be disabled if using a wideband In My Honest Opinion.
A working airpump/acv, is essentially disabled anytime your over 3800 rpm.
How are 02 sensors accurate with a working airpump/acv. Ask NZCONVERTIBLE or anybody else other than me. I remain clueless.
P.S. Don't run with the airpump/acv disabled for any long period of time or it will become disabled. Disabled about the time you go to get an inspection sticker.
01-15-05, 09:18 PM
#34
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Part of your question about the 02 sensor lies in the way things work. The 02 sensor is not used during idle or wide open throttle.
Also, when cruising in fifth gear, the Split Air Solenoid opens and the amount of air going to the catalytic converter rises dramatically.......bypassing the airpump air around the 02 sensor.
And remember what I said in the above post....the acv is disabled above 3800 rpm and dumps the air into the right front fender.
So, tell us what happened when you disabled the acv at idle. Did or did not the afr go down?
Also, when cruising in fifth gear, the Split Air Solenoid opens and the amount of air going to the catalytic converter rises dramatically.......bypassing the airpump air around the 02 sensor.
And remember what I said in the above post....the acv is disabled above 3800 rpm and dumps the air into the right front fender.
So, tell us what happened when you disabled the acv at idle. Did or did not the afr go down?
01-23-05, 08:22 PM
#36
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They say on this forum that the afm is the big item that determines the fuel. The boost/presure sensor is used for adjusting timing, they say, and the pressure sensor also determines if your secondarys will/will not come online at 3800rpm.
I'm thinking afm. Take it out. Look at the Black cover over the internals. Does it look like it's been disturbed at any time. Stock, it is held in place with a clear RTV around the edges.
The 02 sensor is not used at idle per the fsm. It's also not used at wide open throttle.
It's used during cruising conditions.
You can tap a meter into the output wire of the 02 sensor, set it on a low setting like 0-3 volts, and observe when it is being used.
Or you could go to http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/article...odes/main.html and if you read that article, not only does it show how to make a code reader, but also how to attach the LED to the correct sockets and observe , when driving, if the ECU is or is not using the 02 sensor while driving. It will flash at a cetain rate if it's being used to adjust fuel.
I'm thinking afm. Take it out. Look at the Black cover over the internals. Does it look like it's been disturbed at any time. Stock, it is held in place with a clear RTV around the edges.
The 02 sensor is not used at idle per the fsm. It's also not used at wide open throttle.
It's used during cruising conditions.
You can tap a meter into the output wire of the 02 sensor, set it on a low setting like 0-3 volts, and observe when it is being used.
Or you could go to http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/article...odes/main.html and if you read that article, not only does it show how to make a code reader, but also how to attach the LED to the correct sockets and observe , when driving, if the ECU is or is not using the 02 sensor while driving. It will flash at a cetain rate if it's being used to adjust fuel.
01-24-05, 08:15 AM
#38
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The afm has a spring inside that cover. The tension on the spring can be adjusted so it will take more force to open the vane or the tension can be lowered so the vane opens easier.
IF someone has gone in there and squirreled around with the spring tension, they have probably ruined the afm's calibration.
IF someone has gone in there and squirreled around with the spring tension, they have probably ruined the afm's calibration.
01-24-05, 11:39 PM
#40
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If I were you I would not mess with that spring. Just a bit of friendly advice. Remember...I'M JUST GUESSING and the important part....IT AIN'T MY CAR, so I risk nothing and you risk all.
The spring tension can be adjusted to make the fuel mixture richer/leaner (IMHO). But it should be done by a shop. Maybe borrow one from ????????? tio slave in? Or it could be something all together different and that person who knows has not written a thing to help you.
The spring tension can be adjusted to make the fuel mixture richer/leaner (IMHO). But it should be done by a shop. Maybe borrow one from ????????? tio slave in? Or it could be something all together different and that person who knows has not written a thing to help you.
01-25-05, 01:05 AM
#41
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So what do I do? Pay oodles of money to take it to RP in Manassas? I'm stuck? How bad can I F the AFM up by playing with it? What about just pushing it in and out?
01-27-05, 01:08 AM
#43
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Yes is is, and if it's not working you should immediately check the health of the MAP sensor (as per the FSM). A non-functionng MAP sensor on a Turbo is dangerous, because the ignition is no longer being retarded under boost.
01-27-05, 06:17 AM
#44
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Just a note: if the boost/pressure sensor is not connected/working, it will ALSO make your secondarys come on line each and every time the engine revs over 3800 rpm. That is not a natural thing to happen. The secondary injectors Normally come on at 3800 ONLY if there is a LOAD put on the engine. LOAD is at least partially determined by the boost/pressure sensor. More than less.
The output of the boost/pressure sensor can be monitored with a digital meter connected to the pin 2B on the ECU. Just backprobe the wire at the connector and drive the car. The voltage should rise and fall with the engine speed/load.
The output of the boost/pressure sensor can be monitored with a digital meter connected to the pin 2B on the ECU. Just backprobe the wire at the connector and drive the car. The voltage should rise and fall with the engine speed/load.
01-27-05, 10:00 AM
#45
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WOW... I just went and ripped out the FCD... It creeps like hell now because I need my wastegate ported, that's why I removed the stock EBC. It crept to like 9psi. No fuel cut.
o2 was reading much richer MUCH RICHER than before. The A/F (off the o2) was reading 13.0 under load. I know that it's not very accurate so I'm going to double check the readings off the MAP before I go back and drop another $120 to get a wideband on it.
I know I haven't boosted it in like 3 months, but that thing felt torquey and VERY fast up top.
Either way, DAMN YOU CREEPING DEATH FCD!
o2 was reading much richer MUCH RICHER than before. The A/F (off the o2) was reading 13.0 under load. I know that it's not very accurate so I'm going to double check the readings off the MAP before I go back and drop another $120 to get a wideband on it.
I know I haven't boosted it in like 3 months, but that thing felt torquey and VERY fast up top.
Either way, DAMN YOU CREEPING DEATH FCD!
01-27-05, 11:05 AM
#46
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ps, actually it was my fault for modifying two things at the same time without running diagnostics... even though there probably is something wrong with the FCD.
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