LogicFoxX

iTrader: (2)

Hey guys, I wouldn't ask this unless I did my best looking for information but my wee novice brain is outta ideas what could be causing my ride to run so rich. I know general rx7's run rich for safety (round 11-13 AFR) but my spark plugs are easily fouled after about 15 minutes of use before I have to pull them off and dry them of excess gas before the car will start again. Car backfires often, shoots out balloons of smoke smells strongly of gasoline, and above all my newly installed (and I believe) correctly calibrated wide-band o2 sensor reads 8 AFR then occasionally jumps above 16.

I bought the car mod'd and also did a few things as well, However it's been excessively rich since the get go. So here's the specs:

88 13BT

Before Purchase modifications (that may or may not deal with AFR)

- 3rd gen engine rotors
- street port (wide)
- Supposedly injectors were cleaned professionally
- mazda racing pulleys underdrive and alternater
- custom air box
- Gretty type S Blow-off valve
- Some Vacuum lines replaced with silicon
- Emissions removed, BAC etc.
- Air Pump removed
- battery relocated to behind passenger seat in cargo bin
- Engine Grounded multiple places
- racing beat fuel cut controller
- blitz turbo timer
- apexi fuel controller

In attempt to fix the fuel problem I removed the Fuel cut controller from manifold sensor and installed an Innovate Wideband controller w/ gauge.

Here's what I got for pics, hopefully took a picture of something that could help.

Here's my SAFC II . According to AaronCake, and I think I'm on his side, you shouldn't use aftermarket parts to fix a problem. Anyway could this be f'n with my afr that bad?
Settings:
Hi 50%
Low 10%
Hi throttle & Lo throttle are all default
Cylinders 2
Sensor type Flo


directly behind the engine, passenger side..ish by the intake is these vaccume lines, dunno if they are worth looking at they look fine to me.


FPR


Custom Air Box (seems to be clean of dirt build up)


And of course this one.. Drivers side by Oil Filter. I just wanna know what this hose connects to and whats that nozzle? Do they connect together? However came like this So I'm not sure what this is for.



If anyone wants a picture of something, let me know, I'd be more than willing to post it. Again thanks for the time reading and any help you can give.

siguy2k

iTrader: (3)

I dont know if this would be part of your problem but the s4 AFM are supposed to stay flat i believe. Whats you a/f under boost? What are you a/f up the rpm range? More info would definitly help.

LogicFoxX

iTrader: (2)

all bellow 8, once or twice it rises to 9 on decel, but most the time stays below 8

FC3S.USD

iTrader: (2)

when cruising light throttle 3000 rpm what are your fuel ratios ?, and once your in boost whats your AFR ? ,

If in cruise its in 8s , then theres something really wrong, Im guessing he installed bigger injectors. ( maybe even 720 primaries and 1000cc secondaries )

for security I would take upper manifold off ( the first few times its a pain in the *** and assembling you will probably leave a vaccum leak wich will furstrate you for a while , so pay attention .

Then take injectors out and take pictures to see if theres stock 550s if not then your going to have to get some 550 primary and some 720 secondaries if you want to upgrade . ( stock turbo cars run 4 x 550ccs )

LogicFoxX

iTrader: (2)

Right I can get started on that, need the practice anyway. Meantime, anyone know what that hose is?

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

That hose is like your fuel-tank vetilation that would normally route to the charcoal-canister located on the passenger side of the engine-bay, in the corner--closest to the cabin. However, yours has probably been removed.

As far as why it's running so rich, it's probably due to larger injectors and perhaps a larger fuel-pump... If you need help other than this forum trying to straighten out your Rx7, send me a PM, cause it's what I do on a daily basis.

Either way, it's *probably* not your coolant thermo-sensor or your FPR. It's worth straightening out your AFM and checking the connection, and it's also worth setting your SAFC to "flap" as the sensor type and 4-cylinder instead of 2... IIRC.

Better yet, rip that thing out of there and eliminate it as a variable while you're troubleshooting. DONT forget to reattach the AFM wire though if you do remove it.

RoninRX7

isnt his AFM upside down?

arghx

iTrader: (3)

fix the AFM before you do anything

RETed

How are you getting readings that low?
I thought most wide-bands don't read below 10.0?


-Ted

RotaMan99

if the spring is weak in the AFM you could get rich conditions with the AFM mounted like that. Some don't have issues but some do.

Thats all I can say, don't know much about T2s or turbo systems

LogicFoxX

iTrader: (2)

Okay, i'll take a look at that afm and D/C that SAFC

Thanks ErikSeven I might bring it to pm if this gets too lengthy, I just want a good reference for anyone in the future who might have a simular prob.

LogicFoxX

iTrader: (2)

Update:

AFM all checks good, checked, double checked and tripple checked according to the shop manual. I'm not sure if it matters if it's upside down or level or not. However I see why he mounted it upside down, the chord isn't long enough :P

Here are the recently removed injectors, i'm going to have them cleaned whether they are good or not.. these are OEM right?



SAFC 2 when dc'ed, the car sputters after a few seconds of running, or if I jam on the throttle. This makes me think that its interrupting the ECU signals somehow i guess? So I need the SAFC installed to run the car, that or rewire something (looking deeper into it, I have the dash removed to see whats going on)

Latest additions, replaced fuel filter/ oil change royal purple 20W/50

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

I doubt the car would even fire consistantly at an AFR of 8... Id check the outputs of the WB and make sure its calibrated correctly. Are you using one of their gauges too?

LogicFoxX

iTrader: (2)

Lol, well hard to know about the controller, yea its all innovate g3 gauge, LC-1 Controller. And don't get me wrong, the car sounds like it's gonna crap it self constantly so thats why I want it fixed :\

LogicFoxX

iTrader: (2)

Final Update, Found my problem and thanks again for all the help as in it helped me narrow down the solution.

First problem, my injectors were installed backwards, larger ones were on primary rail.

Second my fpr vacuum hose had a slice in it from who knows what, im pretty sure that led to most the problem.

And third, the default settings on my safc make it run at 11, so I think I'll mess with them. Thanks again guys (=

arghx

iTrader: (3)

720/550. nice.