rshn117

so im going to put my 87 base fc together and i don't know really know what im doing this is my firt time messing with rotaries and engines in general

i bought the 87 white base fc bout a year ago and started drivin it last may and blew a rotor in mid febuary so its only been like 8 months driving, ive been feeling a high rpm vibration since i got it and thought that was normal guess it wasn't

about two months ago i got an 88 silver vert for parts, which didn't look too bad at first but im having doubts about the engine now that ive pulled it out, it was run into a pole it had 4 random bald *** tires and i don't even want to know how long it ran with no oil ..before the previous owner got his hands on it it was a mint florida vert with a t2 swap..its sad



87 base bay before i started yanking things out


the motor out of my 88 silver vert


where do i start
spray painted intake, electrical tape holding the crank sensor cover, half the plugs are broken, wiring is just plain retarted a monkey would of done a better job, most sensors are not wired up at all, auxillary port actuators were taken out but never opened, exaust is gay welded together, carbon is flaking off the rotors almost an 1/8 inch build up, and it was started and probably run on no oil (oil cooler ripped off) this came out of the owners mouth " its ok for these motors to run with no oil" ...but it has compression.. not sure how

my biggest problem is that i don't have a job and the funding for this rebuild will be from selling stuff, mostly parts off the vert i will put up a FS thread later

questions
1 how to get the crank bolt off, would an oxy torch kill bearings if i heat up the bolt?

2 could i crack the motor to clean things up and reuse the old seals?

3 since #3 sounds really stupid, how can i get the carbon out without craking the motor

4 whats a good place to get a gasket kit, clutch or just clutch disk and vac lines

5 can someone send me a link to an emissions removal thread

6 is there any special way of taking that massive 54mm flywheel nut off

7 has anyone ever rigged the auxilary port to open by switch, i want a "turbo boost" button

8 how can i tell the difference between a TII diff and just an na lsd, the vert suposedly has a tII diff



let the unghettofication commence


i will update more tonite

rshn117

ill put pics here if im limited in the first post

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

1) Big-*** breaker bar or high-torque impact gun.

2) No, you would need to at least replace the water seals.

3) Seafoam.

4) Atkins, Mazda dealership, Mazdatrix, ACT...

5) Type "emissions removal" in the advanced search field.

6) Same as #1. Big-*** breaker bar or high-torque impact gun.

7) Bad idea. Rig it with an rpm switch & air pump.

8) Verts had open diffs stock, but I've heard the TII LSD has 11 "ribs" vs. only 9 on the NA LSD. I've never counted mine before...

rshn117

thanks RR88

im thinkin to buy the rebuild kit from atkins, not sure if i want to crack the engine yet ill decide after i open up the blown 13b

would seafoam do anything if i soak the rotors? would it loosen up the carbon

i need to do more studyin up on the emissions stuff but so far i think its ok to block off the egr,but id really like to kill that airpump if possible

my base lsd is 9 rib and the vert lsd is 11, im assuming its a TII diff in that vert ill take a pic

rshn117

what is this with rx7club and not beeing able to edit posts..bs


its out


uhhh that doesn't look good ( vert 13b )

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

You should look into a rebuild. The "new" engine in the vert can't be in great shape if some retard ran it without oil.

One of seafoam's uses is for dissolving carbon buildup, so yes.

Block-off the EGR, ACV & airpump. Cap off the lines on the emissions rack, or read up on how to remove it altogether. You will also need a double alternator pulley or yoohoo belt to keep the waterpump from cavitating (no more air pump belt).

And don't use that flywheel...

rshn117

the operating table


its so tiny, kinda odd imagining all that power coming from that little thing


good rotor ..i hope ( theres a small dent and few small scratches on the face)


keeping things relatively organized


rear rotor 1


rear rotor 2


rear rotor 3


ill get pics up of housings , plates, and bearings later

im thinking of cracking the "good" block and putting in new water and oil seals , and apex/side/corner seal springs i don't have the money for actual seals my guess new seals wouldn't be much good without new or resurfaced plates and housings
if im opening it up itll give me a chance to clean off the carbon and all the other crap, check the rotors, housings, plates, bearings and all the other goodies while also giving me a chance to paint/powdercoat the block

is there anything else other than the thrust bearings that i ould have to get ?

is there an easy way of telling if apex/side/corner seals need replacing other than beeing broken?

Rotor Salvage

iTrader: (1)

seals for that matter dont usually wear, they are pretty damn strong. But obviously yea if its broken then no good.

Rear rotor one may be good there, you could keep it mostly assembled and just replace like the oil rings seals.

main thing to replace when just cracking open a theoretically good motor is the water seals like someone said above. if nothing is broken, no need to replace it except the water seals will break or stretch when you take the motor apart.

just make sure to keep everything organized... if you lose track of which seals go to which rotor, you might as well buy new stuff because its gonna seal differently in the housings groove