rotarybeat1287's build thread (pics)
#1
Visual Kei
Thread Starter
iTrader: (16)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Mtns of NC/SC
Posts: 2,480
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
rotarybeat1287's build thread (pics)
Hey guys,
I had another thread but this one is the one I'll use for everything up to the completion of my new setup. Right when my engine went I bought an S4 TII long block from a friend who bought it from some guy in NC. It had a "supposed" rebuild but no papers. Anywho, I needed a good core and some spare parts. Glad I made that move! But my car in it's most recent picture from Deal's Gap this year.
New core... S4 TII long block.
Got a brand new Koyo S4 radiator and e-fan w/ an aluminum shroud. It's pretty sick!
The teardown:
No broken clips! For now... still gotta install again.
Disgusting!
I knew well before this point that I had to do something w/ the engine bay when @ Deal's Gap Rotary Rally 2010 this year and my engine bay looked like ***. A judge popped my hood and I saw him from far away. He shook his head and closed it... and walked away. lol. Needless to say I was a little embarrassed. So in turn leads to cleaning!
round 1:
round 2:
There was surface rust on the frame rails but that was it. Just some scales and paint missing. Sanded and got it with etching primer!
I had another thread but this one is the one I'll use for everything up to the completion of my new setup. Right when my engine went I bought an S4 TII long block from a friend who bought it from some guy in NC. It had a "supposed" rebuild but no papers. Anywho, I needed a good core and some spare parts. Glad I made that move! But my car in it's most recent picture from Deal's Gap this year.
New core... S4 TII long block.
Got a brand new Koyo S4 radiator and e-fan w/ an aluminum shroud. It's pretty sick!
The teardown:
No broken clips! For now... still gotta install again.
Disgusting!
I knew well before this point that I had to do something w/ the engine bay when @ Deal's Gap Rotary Rally 2010 this year and my engine bay looked like ***. A judge popped my hood and I saw him from far away. He shook his head and closed it... and walked away. lol. Needless to say I was a little embarrassed. So in turn leads to cleaning!
round 1:
round 2:
There was surface rust on the frame rails but that was it. Just some scales and paint missing. Sanded and got it with etching primer!
#3
Visual Kei
Thread Starter
iTrader: (16)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Mtns of NC/SC
Posts: 2,480
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Then the Satin black!!!
Obtained one of my favorite wings for an FC!!! An authentic RE-Amemiya wing! Can't wait for this ****. This wing is in PERFECT condition! A little paint and body work to it and my car along w/ finding mounting threads for the wing itself. Soon.
Finally the engine!
The other long block I bought wasn't a rebuild... but in turn was a STUPID low mile J-spec motor. All the re-usable core parts were in great shape and was a good strong core for my new engine.
So it started. Complete rebuild w/ a streetport!
#4
Visual Kei
Thread Starter
iTrader: (16)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Mtns of NC/SC
Posts: 2,480
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
New setup:
-MMR motor mounts
-Rtek 1.7 ECU upgrade
-Siemens 550cc injectors
-Siemens 750cc injectors
-FD fuel pump
-PLX wideband
-GReddy type-RS bov
-Koyo radiator & e-fan w/ aluminum shroud
-GReddy water temp sensor
-Prosport boost gauge
-Prosport water temp gauge
-Dual gauge pod (a-pillar)
Should hopefully have it running into next week sometime depending on when my motor mounts come in... they are MMR and from what I've heard I'm not going to get them anytime soon. I do have a good set of stockers I'll throw in b/c I'm not going to prolong getting my car back on the road over them.
I do have some questions tho:
1. I'm installing an FD pump to run my injectors and have more fuel. Do I need an FC sock or an FD sock? Just simply wire it in and I'm good to go? I'll have my wideband in and will monitor it accordingly during break in, etc. Also... what ideal AFR's will I want to be looking for? Cruising and boost.
2. Premixing. I am keeping the factory S4 omp but want to premix a little also after seeing the inside of a 121k mile rotor housing w/o premixing. I just don't want to have to completely rely on it alone... hence keeping the oem omp. So what ratio's do I need to run w/ this idea?
3. Would 10-12 psi be safe on an S5 turbo and manifold w/ a streetport and the Rtek tune with 550/750 combo and an FD pump. I'm not concerned w/ it and don't have to. I'm fine w/ running stock boost until I decide to go Haltech.
Cheers!
-Allen G.
#5
Visual Kei
Thread Starter
iTrader: (16)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Mtns of NC/SC
Posts: 2,480
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
-behind front wheels
-in front of rear wheels
-behind rear wheels
I don't care for the ones that go on the front bumper as I love my modified 626 front lip too much. I don't have those anyways. But I don't consider them a loss from the set I got!
They are in perfect shape!
Trending Topics
#9
Slowpoke
iTrader: (3)
I do have some questions tho:
1. I'm installing an FD pump to run my injectors and have more fuel. Do I need an FC sock or an FD sock? Just simply wire it in and I'm good to go? I'll have my wideband in and will monitor it accordingly during break in, etc. Also... what ideal AFR's will I want to be looking for? Cruising and boost.
2. Premixing. I am keeping the factory S4 omp but want to premix a little also after seeing the inside of a 121k mile rotor housing w/o premixing. I just don't want to have to completely rely on it alone... hence keeping the oem omp. So what ratio's do I need to run w/ this idea?
3. Would 10-12 psi be safe on an S5 turbo and manifold w/ a streetport and the Rtek tune with 550/750 combo and an FD pump. I'm not concerned w/ it and don't have to. I'm fine w/ running stock boost until I decide to go Haltech.
Cheers!
-Allen G.
1. I'm installing an FD pump to run my injectors and have more fuel. Do I need an FC sock or an FD sock? Just simply wire it in and I'm good to go? I'll have my wideband in and will monitor it accordingly during break in, etc. Also... what ideal AFR's will I want to be looking for? Cruising and boost.
2. Premixing. I am keeping the factory S4 omp but want to premix a little also after seeing the inside of a 121k mile rotor housing w/o premixing. I just don't want to have to completely rely on it alone... hence keeping the oem omp. So what ratio's do I need to run w/ this idea?
3. Would 10-12 psi be safe on an S5 turbo and manifold w/ a streetport and the Rtek tune with 550/750 combo and an FD pump. I'm not concerned w/ it and don't have to. I'm fine w/ running stock boost until I decide to go Haltech.
Cheers!
-Allen G.
2. Aww man just do it! removing the OMP cleans up the engine bay. Its not really too bad, the only pain is stocking up on 2stroke oil at home and carrying a bottle to keep in car * I buy a gallon and leave a quart bottle in the car*
3. Yeah should be fine. Seems some guys get up to 250-260ish and above HP levels on stock turbo with the right tuning. In my opinion stock turbo is plenty for a street car myself until you have the dough to spend on a turbo.. with your setup for a future upgrade , i think a hybrid would be awesome, i want one too.
Nice thread btw, enjoying it .
#10
Awesome build!
that boost level will be fine, checking it with a wideband is great security, as you have no way of adjusting your fuel map... Also port the **** out of your wastegate.
Ditch the omp for the sake of keeping your engine internally cleaner. It isn't too hard to premix every time you fill up.
#11
Visual Kei
Thread Starter
iTrader: (16)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Mtns of NC/SC
Posts: 2,480
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
haha thanks guys! I wasn't planning on "not" premixing. Just keeping the OMP and premixing but not as much as if it were deleted entirely. That way I don't have to rely on it when I'm in between fill ups @ getting gas here and there sometimes.
I'm SOOO freaking excited to get this thing running again! I miss my car! haha.
I'm SOOO freaking excited to get this thing running again! I miss my car! haha.
#13
haha thanks guys! I wasn't planning on "not" premixing. Just keeping the OMP and premixing but not as much as if it were deleted entirely. That way I don't have to rely on it when I'm in between fill ups @ getting gas here and there sometimes.
I'm SOOO freaking excited to get this thing running again! I miss my car! haha.
I'm SOOO freaking excited to get this thing running again! I miss my car! haha.
#17
Visual Kei
Thread Starter
iTrader: (16)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Mtns of NC/SC
Posts: 2,480
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah man. That made my day on hearing that your down to come up! But the only thing I see being a problem is the fuel pump situation. If I get mine and what sock will work or ordering a Walbro. It wouldn't come in on time.
#18
MECP Certified Installer
Are those new rotor housings? They seem too unpolished to me. Any rotor housing I have ever seen with used housings have been polished up by apex seal wear.
Nevermind....I didn't read the last post. Those housings seem really clean and untouched considering 20k miles.
Nevermind....I didn't read the last post. Those housings seem really clean and untouched considering 20k miles.
Last edited by jjwalker; 08-04-10 at 10:53 PM. Reason: grammar and dumbness...
#20
s4 Pride
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Rancho Cucamonga, CA
Posts: 3,350
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Well my favorite stock bodied FC now has a very similar dream engine setup as mine, that being an s4 block with an s5 turbo. Pave the way good sir and I will follow in a few years time.
Do you rebuild your own engines too?
I know some guys with deleted OMPs premix between 1:100 and 1:200, so maybe 1:400 ? I would do some serious research on the topic with Atkins Rotary, Pineapple Racing, Lucky 7 Racing, etc. before you start premixing.
Do you rebuild your own engines too?
I know some guys with deleted OMPs premix between 1:100 and 1:200, so maybe 1:400 ? I would do some serious research on the topic with Atkins Rotary, Pineapple Racing, Lucky 7 Racing, etc. before you start premixing.
#22
Gone Darkside
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Irmo, SC USA
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You're forgetting one major thing as far as the fuel pump, Allen. Your stock TII pump wil work perfectly fine during break-in. You won't even see boost for the first 500+ miles anyway, depending on how you break it in. It's easy enough to swap pumps when the other one comes in that it should only take you 20-30 minutes at most.
So really, we shouldn't have any problems!
So really, we shouldn't have any problems!
#23
Visual Kei
Thread Starter
iTrader: (16)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Mtns of NC/SC
Posts: 2,480
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well just got a PM from the guy I bought mine from saying he shipped it two days ago and has been a little busy. So an FD pump is on it's way. Just need to figure out a sock situation. But I'm sure we can head up to Advanced or something to figure out what will work.