Riddle me this: S5 TII hot start, Rtek 1.7
#1
Ban Peak
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Riddle me this: S5 TII hot start, Rtek 1.7
Hey guys,
I had a weird issue last night, I took my Turbo car out last night, drove it about 40 miles, then parked it. I came back out after about 40 mins and tried to start it. It cranked over, caught, then died. It did that twice, I said WTF, turned on the headlights and tried again. It started and caught idle, I switched off the lights real quick, and it stalled. I turned the lights back on, and it started right up, I drove it for about 10 mins to my next destination, cut the lights off and it stalled. I was there about 25 mins, had the same hot start issue, turned the lighst on ad it started, drove an hour home, cut the lights off in my driveway, the idle dropped below 500rpm, then it picked back up and started idling at 650rpm(Where it normally idles,I need to turned the IAC up to 750).
I've never had problems like this with the car before, it always starts cold, and it has always started hot without any trouble, it was running at the right temp etc.
I did some searching and found some info on the AVS, and Duty/Boost solenoid controlling air flow for hot starts, and I read another thread about the Coolant temperature sensor sending readings to the ECU for hot starts.
I have no CEL's. I'm running an Rtek 1.7, FD fuel pump with 720CC secondaries, stock primaries, emissions deleted, the TB is still stock, and I took out everything except for the pressure sensor and IAC. New fuel filter, all new vacuum and fuel lines routed correctly. The car has been running fine for months.
I think it could be caused by running too rich. My AFR's at idle are 10.9-11.6 which seems real high to me. The used to be in the 13's before the emissions removal.
Should I plug the Duty/Boost solenoid back in, or put the ASV back?
Thanks for your help.
I had a weird issue last night, I took my Turbo car out last night, drove it about 40 miles, then parked it. I came back out after about 40 mins and tried to start it. It cranked over, caught, then died. It did that twice, I said WTF, turned on the headlights and tried again. It started and caught idle, I switched off the lights real quick, and it stalled. I turned the lights back on, and it started right up, I drove it for about 10 mins to my next destination, cut the lights off and it stalled. I was there about 25 mins, had the same hot start issue, turned the lighst on ad it started, drove an hour home, cut the lights off in my driveway, the idle dropped below 500rpm, then it picked back up and started idling at 650rpm(Where it normally idles,I need to turned the IAC up to 750).
I've never had problems like this with the car before, it always starts cold, and it has always started hot without any trouble, it was running at the right temp etc.
I did some searching and found some info on the AVS, and Duty/Boost solenoid controlling air flow for hot starts, and I read another thread about the Coolant temperature sensor sending readings to the ECU for hot starts.
I have no CEL's. I'm running an Rtek 1.7, FD fuel pump with 720CC secondaries, stock primaries, emissions deleted, the TB is still stock, and I took out everything except for the pressure sensor and IAC. New fuel filter, all new vacuum and fuel lines routed correctly. The car has been running fine for months.
I think it could be caused by running too rich. My AFR's at idle are 10.9-11.6 which seems real high to me. The used to be in the 13's before the emissions removal.
Should I plug the Duty/Boost solenoid back in, or put the ASV back?
Thanks for your help.
#2
Ban Peak
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Thread Starter
iTrader: (49)
Okay, I did some looking around in the FSM which I was too lazy to do yesterday, which I should have done in the first place to avoid mis-information.
The Boost/Duty solenoid has nothing to do with it at all.
The term I was looking for was AWS solenoid, not AVS. I think my problem is coming from not having all thecompnents to the Idle speed/duty system still in place. While I still have the ASV(Air Supply Valve, located on TB) and IAC, I do not have the AWS Solenoid anymore.
Is the AWS Solenoid the culprit of my hot start issue, and rich idle?
The Boost/Duty solenoid has nothing to do with it at all.
The term I was looking for was AWS solenoid, not AVS. I think my problem is coming from not having all thecompnents to the Idle speed/duty system still in place. While I still have the ASV(Air Supply Valve, located on TB) and IAC, I do not have the AWS Solenoid anymore.
Is the AWS Solenoid the culprit of my hot start issue, and rich idle?
#3
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
the rtek disables the aws. i dident have a problem with mine after installing rtek. mine is still hooked up.
My best bet is the "fast idle cam" i has a issue with this on my s4 turbo. on hot starts it would die. found out the cam was sticking / mis adjusted letting the throttle plate stick open more (or closed?) its been a year since i adjusted it the fsm walks you through it.
My best bet is the "fast idle cam" i has a issue with this on my s4 turbo. on hot starts it would die. found out the cam was sticking / mis adjusted letting the throttle plate stick open more (or closed?) its been a year since i adjusted it the fsm walks you through it.
#4
Ban Peak
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Thread Starter
iTrader: (49)
the rtek disables the aws. i dident have a problem with mine after installing rtek. mine is still hooked up.
My best bet is the "fast idle cam" i has a issue with this on my s4 turbo. on hot starts it would die. found out the cam was sticking / mis adjusted letting the throttle plate stick open more (or closed?) its been a year since i adjusted it the fsm walks you through it.
My best bet is the "fast idle cam" i has a issue with this on my s4 turbo. on hot starts it would die. found out the cam was sticking / mis adjusted letting the throttle plate stick open more (or closed?) its been a year since i adjusted it the fsm walks you through it.
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