View Poll Results: the most you would of paid for this
100
1
3.45%
200
1
3.45%
300
4
13.79%
400
1
3.45%
500
9
31.03%
600
2
6.90%
700
2
6.90%
800
3
10.34%
900
2
6.90%
1000
4
13.79%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 29. You may not vote on this poll
REX Rebuild
10-25-10, 04:27 AM
#101
Full Member
Thread Starter
sorry for the typos, i tend to type kinda fast and make mistakes.
yesterday i spent half a day trying to get a throw out bearing. got one in the end, i dropped the engine in that same night. next time i think i might bolt the transmission to the engine first and drop both in at the same time. it was kind hard to get them to line up, i ended up threading an engine/transmission bolt in and moving the engine back and forth and tightening the bolt at the same time.
i kinda took it east today, didnt do much. (my b-day
) ram some vacuum hoes's and oil lines.
not sure if the car ever ran how it sits now, seams as like someone put in all S4 sensors, harness and ecu. not sure why.
yesterday i spent half a day trying to get a throw out bearing. got one in the end, i dropped the engine in that same night. next time i think i might bolt the transmission to the engine first and drop both in at the same time. it was kind hard to get them to line up, i ended up threading an engine/transmission bolt in and moving the engine back and forth and tightening the bolt at the same time.
i kinda took it east today, didnt do much. (my b-day
) ram some vacuum hoes's and oil lines.not sure if the car ever ran how it sits now, seams as like someone put in all S4 sensors, harness and ecu. not sure why.
10-26-10, 04:17 AM
#102
Full Member
Thread Starter
i wasnt sure witch way the harness was sposed to run sens i didnt dissasemble it and never have a 7. after messing with it for a little while seams as tho it runs from the front left, across the front to the right then back.
the injector plug sent that was in the middle of the harness went to the set of primary injectors, and the set of plugs that was to the end of the end of the harness went to the secondary injectors.hope thats how it goes
there were couple cut wires not sure what there for, maybe some one could help me identify them. ill post pics. ( note, i think its an S4 harness on an S5 car)
1. is a single green wire that comes off the harness with the secondary injector plugs.
2. are two wires, one is a yellow with black strip and the other is black with a white stripe. after looking at another post this looks like the white solenoid connector right? please confirm.
3. are two plugs, one is while with take that says "split air solenoid valve" (white connector) and the other is a black connector that has a black and blue wire. they both come off of the harness with the tps sensor.
4. and then there is two more connectors, one while and one black that come off of the end of the harness next to what looks like a ground. not sure what that is, if anyone could please help, would greatly be appreciated
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the injector plug sent that was in the middle of the harness went to the set of primary injectors, and the set of plugs that was to the end of the end of the harness went to the secondary injectors.hope thats how it goes
there were couple cut wires not sure what there for, maybe some one could help me identify them. ill post pics. ( note, i think its an S4 harness on an S5 car)
1. is a single green wire that comes off the harness with the secondary injector plugs.
2. are two wires, one is a yellow with black strip and the other is black with a white stripe. after looking at another post this looks like the white solenoid connector right? please confirm.
3. are two plugs, one is while with take that says "split air solenoid valve" (white connector) and the other is a black connector that has a black and blue wire. they both come off of the harness with the tps sensor.
4. and then there is two more connectors, one while and one black that come off of the end of the harness next to what looks like a ground. not sure what that is, if anyone could please help, would greatly be appreciated
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2
3
4
10-26-10, 04:27 AM
#103
Full Member
Thread Starter
today i put in 4 quarts of oil in to the oil pan and one in the the filter pedestal. then i started turning the engine over by had in till the would started pumping out of the filter feed hole. i was told to now use a fram oil filter by someone that posed. i guess there not cheap for nothing?
when i order all the seals from atkins i orderd a oil filter( altron) so i went ahead and put it on. after that i turned the engine over a couple more times. maybe tomorrow ill try and start it. i need to get some spark plugs.
as it turns out i think my rear end might not be turbo, not sure, the axles didnt match up. there is a thiner looking one and a thicker one. both ends on each axle are different. the thicker one fits the transmission but the hole patter doesnt match up to the rear end, and the thinker axle is the other way around. transmission doesn't match up but rear end holes do.
i also found a plug looking thing, not sure what that is. maybe its for the stock inercooling pipping?
throw out bearing was also a little different from he one that came off.
also not sure what the hoses are for in pic one.
when i order all the seals from atkins i orderd a oil filter( altron) so i went ahead and put it on. after that i turned the engine over a couple more times. maybe tomorrow ill try and start it. i need to get some spark plugs.
as it turns out i think my rear end might not be turbo, not sure, the axles didnt match up. there is a thiner looking one and a thicker one. both ends on each axle are different. the thicker one fits the transmission but the hole patter doesnt match up to the rear end, and the thinker axle is the other way around. transmission doesn't match up but rear end holes do.
i also found a plug looking thing, not sure what that is. maybe its for the stock inercooling pipping?
throw out bearing was also a little different from he one that came off.
also not sure what the hoses are for in pic one.
10-26-10, 09:44 AM
#105
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I am very impressed with the work you have done. Especially considering the fact that you have never owned a RX-7. The two hoses in the first pic actually connect to the S-Tube that goes from the turbo to the factory air box. Since it does look like you are using the factory Air Pump I would eliminate it and all of the vaccums while you still have the UIM off the engine. There are plenty of write ups. Good luck with the build.
10-26-10, 04:58 PM
#106
Full Member
Thread Starter
I am very impressed with the work you have done. Especially considering the fact that you have never owned a RX-7. The two hoses in the first pic actually connect to the S-Tube that goes from the turbo to the factory air box. Since it does look like you are using the factory Air Pump I would eliminate it and all of the vaccums while you still have the UIM off the engine. There are plenty of write ups. Good luck with the build.
this is my second car. first one was a civic.the hoses can go to a catch can right? i was reading that the oil pan/crank case is pressurized and needs to be ventilated. and thats where the catch can comes in if you dont want to put it to the intake, putting it to the intake can get kinda messy in the long run. ill have to make sure of it. thanks for the info
10-27-10, 03:57 AM
#107
Directions to the meet: https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...highlight=rpnw
Website: http://www.rpnw.org
It's Rotary Power NorthWest
For the most part it's a bunch of rotorheads meeting up for pizza and to talk about [mostly] rotary cars. Usually ~6-10 people show up for the monthly meeting.There are also two drives we do during the summer [one from Fry's in Wilsonville to Newport, and the other is from North Vancouver to Beacon Rock State Park], we also have a corral at the Historic races during the summer and we had a tournament[ish] at Sykart in Tigard.
If you can make it to the meet next month [1st Wednesday] you really should [and bring some of these pictures to show ^_^] It's a really friendly and fun group.
Oh, we've also got a "Chumpcar" for the race at PIR this weekend, you should come check it out![at the race] It's a red and white 1st gen. [Last year at Chumpcar another FB took 3rd place]
And so my post isn't totally off topic: Oil filters: I always use Napa Gold, Mazda, or WIX [they're actually the same filter with different labels]. Supposedly the FRAM ones can break down, and since we inject oil it should be very well filtered anyway.. [Not sure where it was, but I once saw a website that cut open a bunch of filters and compared their elements... Scary how different most of them were..]
10-27-10, 05:47 AM
#109
Full Member
Thread Starter
Rockwood, never heard of it before ^_^' But Google tells me it's near 182nd and Stark?
Directions to the meet: https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...highlight=rpnw
Website: http://www.rpnw.org
It's Rotary Power NorthWest For the most part it's a bunch of rotorheads meeting up for pizza and to talk about [mostly] rotary cars. Usually ~6-10 people show up for the monthly meeting.
There are also two drives we do during the summer [one from Fry's in Wilsonville to Newport, and the other is from North Vancouver to Beacon Rock State Park], we also have a corral at the Historic races during the summer and we had a tournament[ish] at Sykart in Tigard.
If you can make it to the meet next month [1st Wednesday] you really should [and bring some of these pictures to show ^_^] It's a really friendly and fun group.
Oh, we've also got a "Chumpcar" for the race at PIR this weekend, you should come check it out![at the race] It's a red and white 1st gen. [Last year at Chumpcar another FB took 3rd place]
And so my post isn't totally off topic: Oil filters: I always use Napa Gold, Mazda, or WIX [they're actually the same filter with different labels]. Supposedly the FRAM ones can break down, and since we inject oil it should be very well filtered anyway.. [Not sure where it was, but I once saw a website that cut open a bunch of filters and compared their elements... Scary how different most of them were..]
Directions to the meet: https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...highlight=rpnw
Website: http://www.rpnw.org
It's Rotary Power NorthWest
For the most part it's a bunch of rotorheads meeting up for pizza and to talk about [mostly] rotary cars. Usually ~6-10 people show up for the monthly meeting.There are also two drives we do during the summer [one from Fry's in Wilsonville to Newport, and the other is from North Vancouver to Beacon Rock State Park], we also have a corral at the Historic races during the summer and we had a tournament[ish] at Sykart in Tigard.
If you can make it to the meet next month [1st Wednesday] you really should [and bring some of these pictures to show ^_^] It's a really friendly and fun group.
Oh, we've also got a "Chumpcar" for the race at PIR this weekend, you should come check it out![at the race] It's a red and white 1st gen. [Last year at Chumpcar another FB took 3rd place]
And so my post isn't totally off topic: Oil filters: I always use Napa Gold, Mazda, or WIX [they're actually the same filter with different labels]. Supposedly the FRAM ones can break down, and since we inject oil it should be very well filtered anyway.. [Not sure where it was, but I once saw a website that cut open a bunch of filters and compared their elements... Scary how different most of them were..]
and thanks for the links
right now im kinda tired tho, but workin on the car all day, ill have to read up on it so tomorrow.
im not sure that ill be able to make it this next time, ill try to. plus i would rather go if i had a running rx7
or ales i might kind feel out of place. hopefully next month.and ill see if i can get out to pir this weekend, i haven't bin there for a while now.
plus its the last late night drags right?
10-28-10, 04:24 AM
#110
^_^" Pains me to say.. But you really don't have to worry about not bringing your FC, only about half of the people bring their rotaries along [usual suspects: 8,8,FC, FC, FD or so] One guy doesn't bring his because it's basically a track car, another has his in THE shop [FD3S Engineering - awesome place, awesome people btw], and another only brings his down sometimes.
hehe, but I do know what you mean about feeling out of place bringing something else [I think I've only been there once without one of my cars - we took my GF's MX-6 since I was up in Vancouver with her beforehand]
No idea when the late night drags end.. I've only been there a few times ^_^' [and usually it's late when they abandon the gate, you can go in and watch for free >_> lol]
BTW: Kudos on working on the car all day!
hehe, but I do know what you mean about feeling out of place bringing something else [I think I've only been there once without one of my cars - we took my GF's MX-6 since I was up in Vancouver with her beforehand]
No idea when the late night drags end.. I've only been there a few times ^_^' [and usually it's late when they abandon the gate, you can go in and watch for free >_> lol]
BTW: Kudos on working on the car all day!
10-28-10, 08:13 AM
#111
Full Member
Thread Starter
^_^" Pains me to say.. But you really don't have to worry about not bringing your FC, only about half of the people bring their rotaries along [usual suspects: 8,8,FC, FC, FD or so] One guy doesn't bring his because it's basically a track car, another has his in THE shop [FD3S Engineering - awesome place, awesome people btw], and another only brings his down sometimes.
hehe, but I do know what you mean about feeling out of place bringing something else [I think I've only been there once without one of my cars - we took my GF's MX-6 since I was up in Vancouver with her beforehand]
No idea when the late night drags end.. I've only been there a few times ^_^' [and usually it's late when they abandon the gate, you can go in and watch for free >_> lol]
BTW: Kudos on working on the car all day!
hehe, but I do know what you mean about feeling out of place bringing something else [I think I've only been there once without one of my cars - we took my GF's MX-6 since I was up in Vancouver with her beforehand]
No idea when the late night drags end.. I've only been there a few times ^_^' [and usually it's late when they abandon the gate, you can go in and watch for free >_> lol]
BTW: Kudos on working on the car all day!
yea i would really feel out of place now only will i now have my rex but i wont know what the heck you guys would be talking about lol
well i looked up the PIR calender and yea, this weekend is the last night, i want to get out there for sure.
bin working on it for like a month straight now. some times all day some times just for a few.
10-29-10, 02:14 AM
#113
Full Member
Thread Starter
the night before last night i pulled the gas tank out to see what kind of gunk was in there, before i completely pulled it out i opened up the top and looked in side ( i didnt do this earlier sens i didnt know where the hatch was). the tank was aloot cleaner then i expected, the think maybe the previous owners had bin in there doing some work. i say that sens it seams as tho i have a walbro 255 fuel pump as well. thats a plus.
about the drive shafts i used the turbo one, i just drilled slots in it and the holes centered the axle. seamed to have worked no wobble. maybe a half mill if any.
theres abunch of other stuff im forgetting to mention....
so yea last night when i went to start the car it just wouldnt start. i had left the fuel line disconnected at the engine bay to see if fuel was coming out and nun did. i went to the fuel pump and pulled it out. checked the connectors and for continuity between the connectors and there was some. one did have 2 ohms tho, not sure if thats alot or not.. so about after 30 min of farting around i remembered that i saw a switch on the dash. i went to that and it went under the dash. went to some kind of relay. i looked at the color of the wire and it matched the color of the wire that went to the fuel pump. they were the same. i took out the switch and put back all the wire like they are originally. after that i would turn the ignition on and still no fuel. i went to crank ( how ever you say it, kinda like try and start it) and thats when i started to hear the pump working, seconds after fuel started coming out at the engine bay. i hooked up the line the the fuel rail and cranked it again. it kinda stated to sputter and seamed like it wanted to start, so i told my friend to turn the key for me. i went under the hook and just pulled the throttle cable a little and it started!! kinda amazing sens i wasnt really expecting it to do much. i only ran it for like 5 seconds sens it was late and didnt want the nabors coming out and complaining.
the day before that (not sure if i mentioned it or not already) that wen i went to turn the the engine over( with out plugs) oil pressure went up to about 40 psi, not bad i would say. i say this sens when first started it it went to about 70 psi at idle, a little while after i went back and it was reading about 110 psi, could this be possible? the rear regulator was spoed to be set to 85. could my pressure sensor be bad? could there be some kind of a blockage going on?
another thing i noticed after running it for a while (today) that i went to look at the rpm tack and saw it moving fine. a little while after the car wormed up the idle seam to drop and run kinda crummy. so i went to check the rpms again and it was at 0. not moving at all. vary wierd to see them moving one seconds then not the other.
after that i went to check the spark with a timing gun and only the leading plugs had spark. both the trailing didnt. could my coil be bad? how would i check to see? again all the sensors are mix and match, kind of a Frankenstein.
same with water, didnt read anything at all even tho i felt heat coming off of the engine.
this things perty loud. even at idle, was burning oil like crazy too. had me biting my nails thinkin that i must of did something wrong when i built the engine. but after running it for like 30 min or so the smoked kinda seamed to die off a litle to about half of what it was at first. there still some coming out but not nearly as much. i hope his is all part of the break in process and not a malfunction with some of the oil components
as i had mentioned a little whole back was well that i forgot to put in the water pump gasket, that showed today, had a pump leak. ill have to take it apart tomorrow and put it in.
ill post some pics soon for anyone that cares.
about the drive shafts i used the turbo one, i just drilled slots in it and the holes centered the axle. seamed to have worked no wobble. maybe a half mill if any.
theres abunch of other stuff im forgetting to mention....
so yea last night when i went to start the car it just wouldnt start. i had left the fuel line disconnected at the engine bay to see if fuel was coming out and nun did. i went to the fuel pump and pulled it out. checked the connectors and for continuity between the connectors and there was some. one did have 2 ohms tho, not sure if thats alot or not.. so about after 30 min of farting around i remembered that i saw a switch on the dash. i went to that and it went under the dash. went to some kind of relay. i looked at the color of the wire and it matched the color of the wire that went to the fuel pump. they were the same. i took out the switch and put back all the wire like they are originally. after that i would turn the ignition on and still no fuel. i went to crank ( how ever you say it, kinda like try and start it) and thats when i started to hear the pump working, seconds after fuel started coming out at the engine bay. i hooked up the line the the fuel rail and cranked it again. it kinda stated to sputter and seamed like it wanted to start, so i told my friend to turn the key for me. i went under the hook and just pulled the throttle cable a little and it started!! kinda amazing sens i wasnt really expecting it to do much. i only ran it for like 5 seconds sens it was late and didnt want the nabors coming out and complaining.
the day before that (not sure if i mentioned it or not already) that wen i went to turn the the engine over( with out plugs) oil pressure went up to about 40 psi, not bad i would say. i say this sens when first started it it went to about 70 psi at idle, a little while after i went back and it was reading about 110 psi, could this be possible? the rear regulator was spoed to be set to 85. could my pressure sensor be bad? could there be some kind of a blockage going on?
another thing i noticed after running it for a while (today) that i went to look at the rpm tack and saw it moving fine. a little while after the car wormed up the idle seam to drop and run kinda crummy. so i went to check the rpms again and it was at 0. not moving at all. vary wierd to see them moving one seconds then not the other.
after that i went to check the spark with a timing gun and only the leading plugs had spark. both the trailing didnt. could my coil be bad? how would i check to see? again all the sensors are mix and match, kind of a Frankenstein.
same with water, didnt read anything at all even tho i felt heat coming off of the engine.
this things perty loud. even at idle, was burning oil like crazy too. had me biting my nails thinkin that i must of did something wrong when i built the engine. but after running it for like 30 min or so the smoked kinda seamed to die off a litle to about half of what it was at first. there still some coming out but not nearly as much. i hope his is all part of the break in process and not a malfunction with some of the oil components
as i had mentioned a little whole back was well that i forgot to put in the water pump gasket, that showed today, had a pump leak. ill have to take it apart tomorrow and put it in.
ill post some pics soon for anyone that cares.
10-30-10, 05:16 AM
#114
ugh.. wiring issues.. Not my forte... ^_^'
Burning oil? By that you mean it was smoking? [from the crisco/petroleum jelly/etc when you assembled it?]
If I remember correctly, it takes about 20-45min at idle to burn off all of the assembly grease/oil. Perfectly normal. ^_^
Burning oil? By that you mean it was smoking? [from the crisco/petroleum jelly/etc when you assembled it?]
If I remember correctly, it takes about 20-45min at idle to burn off all of the assembly grease/oil. Perfectly normal. ^_^
10-30-10, 05:39 AM
#115
Full Member
Thread Starter
ugh.. wiring issues.. Not my forte... ^_^'
Burning oil? By that you mean it was smoking? [from the crisco/petroleum jelly/etc when you assembled it?]
If I remember correctly, it takes about 20-45min at idle to burn off all of the assembly grease/oil. Perfectly normal. ^_^
Burning oil? By that you mean it was smoking? [from the crisco/petroleum jelly/etc when you assembled it?]
If I remember correctly, it takes about 20-45min at idle to burn off all of the assembly grease/oil. Perfectly normal. ^_^
10-30-10, 06:10 AM
#116
Full Member
Thread Starter
today i installed the water pump gasket but it still kept leaking... starting to think its the water pump housing to front iron gasket. not sure. ill have to verify that. today it started up kinda weird, almost as if it were running on one rotor. i pulled the plugs out and they looked fine. didnt look like they burn too much oil, thats what makes me think my turbo is bad. i took out my CAS and gave it a span while all the plugs wires didnt have any plugs in them and were close to the alternator (ground) and they all had a nice blue strong spark. i put spark plugs in all of them and only one sparked, could my plugs have went out already? it ran fine the first day. the plugs that didnt spark smoked for a little whole. i put them in a jar with gasoline and sanded them. they stared to spark but not nearly as strong as the one. i guess maybe thats why it was only running on one rotor. thats perty much what i did all day. what a pain. starting to get kind frustrated.
havnt really bin taking too much pics lately.
havnt really bin taking too much pics lately.
10-30-10, 07:09 AM
#119
Full Member
Thread Starter
something ive seen people do to there turbo cars is eliminate the air flow sensor, how do they do this? how does the engine know how much air is coming in?
10-30-10, 08:49 PM
#120
Full Member
Thread Starter
seams to run better with an unplugged fuel pump, idle is aloot better by far. i think sens it doesnt have the air flow metter it floods and fouls the plugs.
11-02-10, 08:24 AM
#121
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The only way you can eliminate the MAF is by using some kind of engine management system. If your having problems with the spark I would check the timing. Sometimes as you are putting in the crank angle sensor it moves causing it to be slightly off timing.
11-02-10, 04:08 PM
#122
Full Member
Thread Starter
ill look in to that today thanks