The holes for the 4 bolts that hold the exhaust manifold to the block. Can I just retap, or do I need to use a Heli-coil?

 

Always retap first...Heli-Coil is like a last-ditch option...



-Ted

 

Retap to the next largest size if thread chasing is out of the question.
With a helicoil you already have to reatap it anyway, so why not just retap it properly and use bolts or something?
I'd only use a helicoil for things like plugs, pressure sensors... stuff where you ahve to keep the stock thread size and pitch.
Sean Cathcart

Hey rico, how do I change the name above my avatar?

 

I assumed this is for an exhaust stud?&nbsp If so, larger exhaust metric studs are a pain in the *** to find - this is why I mentioned Heli-Coil.&nbsp The exhaust fasteners are not torqued that heavily; the Heli-Coil should work fine.&nbsp Heat and vibration work the fasteners loose; overtorquing these fasteners is going to get you into a whole lot of trouble...



-Ted

 

So, try to tap, then go Heli-coil. Two of the holes have broken studs in them, and the other 2 have been stripped. Are the holes w/ the broken studs fixable? I am gonna try and EZ Out em, and hope for the best.

Sean, beg a Moderator to fix that for you. I had to whine to Justin to get him to allow for me to have that option. Check in User Profile and then Edit Profile.

 

Yeah, most of the time broken studs can be removed.&nbsp If they are sheared close to flush, you need some kinda EZ-out.&nbsp If you can get these, I would suggest you get REVERSE drill bits with a reversible drill - this makes usually pop them out while drilled them in reverse.&nbsp Use a LOT of penetrant, and a torch can be handy.



-Ted

 

Find a piece of aluminum to practice on, whatever you do. And if your going to just tap the holes to a larger size stud, then remember that your gonna have to ream out the exaust header to match the larger stud. Another good question to help you make up your mind is.....how wallowed out are the two holes that are stripped out?? Are they elongated? If so, get a helicoil and tap to fit. Whatever you do, practice on something before doing it on the engine. You only have about three tries before it turns into junk. Get a bottom tap, not one of those tapered jobs. Practice drilling straight holes and tapping straight threads. And practice on a hole that is only as deep as the one your gonna end up fixing.

 

So I will buy the EZ-Out for the broken ones (broken off slightly longer than flush) and try to retap the other two holes. I'll get my mechanic neighbor to gimmie a hand. Thanks guys for all your help. I know I can be a MAJOR PITA sometimes!!!!!!

 

I would also add this:

Take a chunk of aluminum or something and drill a hole through it to the major diameter of the tap. You can use this block to sit flush over the hole and the tap will be held straight while you start it a few threads.

-billy

 

Good idea. Where do I get a piece of aluminum like that?

 

And one last thing, my mother told me last night that I "shouldn't be fooling around with my car anymore." ...Bitch. She thinks that I am completly un capable to do this. Is she right? I am just getting into actual mechanics, so I don't have any expereince in doing this. Should I just pull my engine, and take it to a shop and have them do this for me? Come on guys, I need a ego boost to help heal my wounded ego!!

 

WHere do I get that kind of aluminum chunk?

 

Come on MOM! Screwing around with things is how we learn how to do things. Remember Betty Lou and how playing doctor taught us about how babies are made???? Remember the crude LSD lab we made in the search for truth? Same thing with cars. Its as simple as that. Oh, the chunk of aluminum. Remember how he said *chunk of aluminum OR SOMETHING. Go to Home Depot and buy some SOMETHING. Your going to use it as a DRILL GUIDE, to keep your drill square with the rotor housing. Same with the tap. Keep it straight. Dare you to show this post to your mom. Bet she didn't know about Betty Lou.

 

You could use a piece of wood or anything that is thick enough to keep the tap straight. Say.....3/4" thick.