Been a long time since I've been on here (Since I wrapped my 89 T2 Swapped car around a telephone pole in April 2005), but I'm back in the world of rotaries right now trying to get a basket case I rescued to run.

She is a 1987 Black TII. I bought it three years ago for $800 and it's been sitting in my yard/garage since then. It had already been sitting when I bought it, not sure how long.

Yesterday I had it cranking (plug wires disconnected) and it sure seems to have good compression (I have experienced the uneven cranking of one with a blown apex seal; this one cranks just like my friend's na that runs fine). The only thing apparent was the compressor wheel blades on the outermost wheel are all chewed up, and the guy I bought it off of (who had taken it apart rather gangster-hillbilly-style) said it "started runnin' funny". Now some of the wiring is pretty hacked (un-taped twisted-together wires for the BACV and the like), and the gas is at least 4 years old now, and probably a lot more I'm not thinking of; but I have a replacement turbo here and want to see if it will run.

I have a few questions:

The number on my BAC is N332. I have a spare on another manifold I have, but it's numbered N318. The number on the AFM I have is N326. The ECU is numbered N332. Does any of this matter? It seems like I don't have the right AFM for this ECU; shouldn't it be numbered 332 as well?

What's the best way to get the old gas out, purge the fuel system, and get some new stuff in?

 

N318 and N332 are both s4 TII numbers. N326 is a n.a afm. You need to get a N318 afm.

There is a drain plug on the bottom of the gas tank. Remove the bolt and drain that horrid scanky fuel out of the tank. Disconnect the fuel lines from the engine and from the fuel pump, then used compressed air to clean out the lines.

I suggest you remove the fuel pump and change out the fuel filter that attaches to the pump as well as the other fuel filter that is attached to the frame rail near the engine bay.

After you have done all of that it probably would be most wise to remove the injectors and send them out to be professionally cleaned. Witch hunter and injector rehab are two companies im aware of that do this service. Its cheap too!

 

OK so going to need an AFM...not so bad so far.
I just replaced the turbo with the new one, but I haven't put the factory exhaust back on. I have a 3" turbo back I want to use, but it doesn't have a split air pipe. Can I just block off the port for it on the LIM and not use it anymore?

Where does the vacuum line from the boost sensor (little black thing on the ps front strut tower) go? There are two nipples, one on the intake manifold itself and another on the piece under the BAC (not sure what its called.) Right now I have it plugged into the manifold.

Where does the vac line that attaches to the front of the wastegate actuator with the banjo fitting connect to?

 

The gas is draining out (that plug is a wicked idea)....under the carpet in the trunk are two panels; I'm assuming the one with wires is the fuel pump, but it isn't plugged in to anywhere and I can't find a matching connector for it anywhere.....where is that wire supposed to come from?

 

I have the fuel pump out; is that sock on the bottom replaceable? If so how does it come off?

 

I never was able to finish a turbo'd 7 as im a screw up but i will try my best to assist you.

The split air pipe can be blocked. I think that's for emission which i bet you dont need.

If you put on a aftermarket exhaust you must get a FCD (fuel cut defenser). You will boost creep and probably pop the engine.
Did you look inside the exhaust ports of the engine and make sure all your apex seals are intact and springy when you push on the seals?
The old turbo could of be **** because the engine may have spit out a seal.

The boost pressure sensor (black box on the passenger side strut tower) goes the nipple on the lower intake manifold. A quick search and im sure you will find a lot more info.

The other vac line im unsure of off hand. More searching and YOU WILL find all the info you need, or someone else many chimmy in with the answer.

The panel in the truck area with the wires coming out of it is indeed the fuel pump. The plug it connects into with be on the left side panel carpet near the strut tower. Remove the left side carpet and you will see a plug it connects into. Pretty weird spot.

The fuel pump sock is replaceable. Theres some kind of strange clip that holds it on. Let me know the numbers that is on the pump itself. Is the pump green? I want to make sure you have a turbo fuel pump. A n.a fuel pump with pop the engine.

 

Wow there was a LOT of fuel in it hahaha. Probably 8 or 9 gallons of weedwhacker-grade gas came out.

Won't need emissions, 1987 is the first year that is exempt from emissions here, thank god.

The pump is silver and says N318 on it, so I assume it's a turbo pump. It's very strange that I don't have the correct AFM, everything else matches up.

This is a factory turbo car, and this looks like the original pump. This car still had the original factory exhaust on it.

Would going to an external spring-type WG alleviate my potential boost creep problem if I decide to use the aftermarket exhaust (just asking because I have one sitting right here)??? I have all of the necessary block off plates.

 

It's not Strange to buy a TII for 800 bucks and it has a N/A AFM on it.It's normal!!

 

LOL.

Lucky it's just that . ..so far.

 

I would flush EVERYTHING...I mean EVERY fluid.
And check over everything/ change anything that looks worn out.
Spark plugs/ wires/ clean injectors/ put in new vacuum lines...etc

 

Yeah, I guess some of it is to be expected for what I paid....The afm plug was wedged under the bracket for the boost sensor and the oe intake pipe is cracked where it goes over the turbo (someone thought electrical tape was an acceptable fix here).

Found out when I was under there that the oil pan has a GIANT dent right in the middle, which led to finding out that I have a broken passenger side motor mount. Getting that pan off was NOT fun....the pickup isn't bent or anything and the sensors aren't broken either; looks like I got lucky.

So after a fuel sock, installing a new oil pan, putting oil and gas in it, and figuring out where some wiring and vacuum stuff goes, I bet it starts. Even with an na afm and no cooling system. 9am Mazda dealership mission tomorrow!

 

Right now I just wanna make the motor run for a few seconds.

Once I know I have a good motor, I'll worry about the rest. I was fully expecting the motor to be blown for the price I paid, but from all appearances thus far it doesn't seem that way. Once I know for sure, I'll change the rest of the fluids and find a rad for it somewhere.

It has new plugs and wires on it already. They were in the glove box in a Mazda box when I bought the car. One small victory!

 

I think a guy named NismoConvert86(Kevin) lives in your area.Maybe you can Pm him?, and see if he can advise you of anything.

 

Only way to know for sure is do a compression check.

 

Yup, just because it starts doesnt mean the engine is good. You should really do a compression test before doing any other work.

 

You can run an NA Maf on a t2. We did for about a year and no problems.

 

I'll check compression as soon as my friend gets here to crank it for me.

I thought I would be ok with doing that with the afm just to make it run.. Just waiting on a fuel sock before I drop the pump back in. I also have three different oil pans here.

One of them has a sensor and a cutout in the baffle. (The one I took off., with the dent)
One of them has no sensor and a cutout in the baffle.
One of them has a sensor, but no cutout in the baffle.

Does the baffle cutout thing matter?

 

I checked the compression by hand because I'm still witing on someone to crank, and both rotors gave me a nice even pulse every 360 degrees of e-shaft rotation. I was turning way too slowly to get accurate pressures for each pulse.......

Is that good, compression every 360 degrees on both rotors?