replaced water pump, now car wont start
06-10-04, 05:59 PM
#27
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i think i may have found the problem- when i reassembled the car after replacing the water pump, i didnt align the mark on the pulley with the pin on the engine. i think the timing was off. i just aligned the pulley with the pin and reassembled but it still wont start. do u think this may have been the problem? Also could running it like this cause engine damage or damage to other parts?any ideas anyone? oh yea i build a diagnostic tester and tested it and the thing worked, but when i would clip it into clip it wouldnt do anything
06-10-04, 06:00 PM
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i think i may have found the problem- when i reassembled the car after replacing the water pump, i didnt align the mark on the pulley with the pin on the engine. i think the timing was off. i just aligned the pulley with the pin and reassembled but it still wont start. do u think this may have been the problem? Also could running it like this cause engine damage or damage to other parts?any ideas anyone? oh yea i build a diagnostic tester and tested it and the thing worked, but when i would clip it into clip it wouldnt do anything
06-10-04, 06:01 PM
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i think i may have found the problem- when i reassembled the car after replacing the water pump, i didnt align the mark on the pulley with the pin on the engine. i think the timing was off. i just aligned the pulley with the pin and reassembled but it still wont start. do u think this may have been the problem? Also could running it like this cause engine damage or damage to other parts?any ideas anyone? oh yea i build a diagnostic tester and tested it and the thing worked, but when i would clip it into clip it wouldnt do anything
06-10-04, 06:03 PM
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i think i may have found the problem- when i reassembled the car after replacing the water pump, i didnt align the mark on the pulley with the pin on the engine. i think the timing was off. i just aligned the pulley with the pin and reassembled but it still wont start. do u think this may have been the problem? Also could running it like this cause engine damage or damage to other parts?any ideas anyone? oh yea i build a diagnostic tester and tested it and the thing worked, but when i would clip it into clip it wouldnt do anything
06-10-04, 06:07 PM
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You didn't pull the big front bolt out, did ya? Just taking the pulley off and reinstalling it rotated 90* or 180* is not gonna affect the timing- just move the timing marks...Let's start from the top- name EVERYTHING you took apart or touched/moved to change that pump....
06-10-04, 07:40 PM
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after i removed all belts i couldnt get the pulleys off so i tried the big front bolt. this made the motor turn, without the car running or belts attached. could this have thrown off my timing?but i didnt remove the big bolt, it wouldnt budge-good thing
06-10-04, 07:45 PM
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i took off all the belts and couldnt get the pulleys off so i tryed to get them off by taking off the big bolt in the middle. by doing this i ended up cranking the engine by hand with no belts or anything attached. could this have thrown off my timing? i DID NOT remove the big bolt tho, it wouldnt budge...good thing
06-10-04, 07:45 PM
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All right, let's zero in on the alt again- make sure the small 2-pin plug on the back is installed correctly & locked in (should have a black/white, and white/black wire on it, black/white should be on top on an S4 n/a), then take a look at your main 80A fuse in the engine bay fuse block- this one blows fairly easy if the upper alt wire hits a ground (the big one with a ring terminal & 8mm nut holding it down on the alt)...If this fuse is blown, there are 2 or 3 10mm bolts holding it to the main bus bars- don't try to just yank it out...You didn't mess with the CAS at all either, right?
Last edited by WAYNE88N/A; 06-10-04 at 07:53 PM.
06-11-04, 05:13 PM
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the alt plug is in correctly and i checked the 80a fuse. i even took it out and it looked ok. while it was out i tryed cranking the engine and it wouldnt even crank and no dashlights even came on, so i know that fuse is fine.the engine cranks but just wont fire. i checked for spark again and still dont think im getting any. when checking for spark is there any one plug or wire i have to test or can it be any of them?
06-13-04, 06:57 PM
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could both coil packs be dead? i dont see how if im getting 12 volts to the coil packs, its not the coil packs that are messed up. do the ignitors go too?
06-13-04, 07:20 PM
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Highly unlikely both (all 3) coils went out at the same time...Is the tach "twitching" at all when you crank it?...Next thing I would do is read out the CAS & harness from the ECU, just to mark it off the list of suspects...S4, right?...Get to the ECU below the carpet covering the passenger "feet" location (remove door sill, 6 philips or so, small triangular sidewall panel, 3 "push fasteners" (pry 'em up), pull carpet outta the way, 2 10mm nuts & 2 10mm bolts holding the ECU protective panel on, & you're in)...Go to the largest plug, pull it off (to protect the ECU from the 9 volt meter voltage),put the meter on ohms, put the probes on the green wire terminal (6th from the left on the bottom row), and blue wire (5th from left, bottom)...You should get continuity, something around 200 ohms, IIRC...Next, try the red wire (3rd from left, bottom) to the white wire (4th from left, top row). Same thing, 'bout 200 ohms. All of these locations are looking at the BACK of the plugs, as if it was still on the ECU. If any readings are out of whack, you've got a bad CAS or wiring. If they're all good, the CAS & wiring are good...
06-13-04, 07:54 PM
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if this doesnt work, whats your opinion on getting it towed to a mazda dealership and having them look at it? are there computers that they can hook up to the car to figure out the problem? my dad says ive got till the 26th to get it running or hes pushing it into the street and not givin me rides or nothin- its my only car- im kinda stuck. tomorrow ill test the ecu like u said tho
06-13-04, 08:14 PM
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Unless you feel totally helpless with it, DON"T take it to a dealer...You have all the technical help you'll ever need on this forum when the "gurus" are on...The ignition system is not at all complicated- you've got the 40A EGI INJ fuse, main relay (easy enough- does it click?), ignitors/ coils (can be read out per FSM), the capacitor (below the trailing coils), the CAS & its inputs, and the ECU (and, of course, the plug wires & plugs)...you said you're getting 12v at the ignitors, that rules out the fuse & main relay. That's why I recommended the CAS checks next (BTW- you sure the timing is at least CLOSE?)
06-13-04, 08:54 PM
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i have no clue about the timing, it might be totally off. when the car was running and i brought it to like 6000 rpms and then shifted the car would backfire really loud through the exhaust- could this mean the timing was a little off then?
06-13-04, 10:19 PM
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Could be timing, but if you took her up to 6K without it shaking itself off the mounts, it can't be too far off...Also could be TPS...If you haven't moved the CAS (you can check & make sure the nut's holding her down tight), don't worry about timing just yet- verify that the ignition components are good first...
Just reread everything you said, something else popped in my head- check the plug on the AFM (near the air box)- make sure it's on there good...
Just reread everything you said, something else popped in my head- check the plug on the AFM (near the air box)- make sure it's on there good...
Last edited by WAYNE88N/A; 06-13-04 at 10:37 PM.
06-14-04, 04:59 AM
#48
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By any chance did you unplug the AFM harness? Maybe it's loose? Just changing a water pump wouldn't mess the timing. Even an unplugged water thermo will start the car.
06-14-04, 02:15 PM
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i checked the ecu and got nothing on any of the wires. im not sure if i did it right tho. i put the red prong of the ohm meter into the plug(the wires u said to). you dont put the prong onto the ecu right? also i placed the black prong on every metal piece of the car around me (except for the ecu) to try to ground it, is this what i am supposed to do?