j200pruf

iTrader: (4)

Well, I got the car back together around today. Fired it up, and it was running like crap. It won't hold an idle, and it isn't smooth, probably didn't get the CAS in quite right so I will try tomorrow.

But I did let the car run long enough to completly warm up, and with it idling near 750 I was getting 20psi, and it was building to 65 psi slightly before 3k, so I should be ok, and it is only running 10w-30 right now.

The only thing that concearns me is when I blip the throttle there is a clinking noise(not detinating), is this probably because the timing is off?

YearsOfDecay

more than likely..

however.. check for bad motor mounts as well or something loose that you didn't tighten back up right.

boosted1205

iTrader: (9)

When you removed the e-shaft bolt, did you have the clutch pushed in or took care in not pushing the e-shaft ?
You *might* have had the needle bearing/thrust washer fall out. That could be the "tink" sound when the motor is rotating. That's going to throw the balance weight off. Did you measure the end play when putting all back together? If the needle bearing did fall out, there would be a lot of play.
I hope it's not that though.

bcool

you know what i had the same thing happen to me when i did a front cover job and for the life of me i couldnt figure out what happened. So i pulled it off again (30 min record time woot) checked everything, the bearing was sitting where it should. Oh, and before i pulled it apart i reset the CAS 10 times. It almost sounded like detonation when i reved it, when i could get it started i would have to hold the starter on untill it would pull up to idle speed, then i would have to keep my foot on it. So anyways i pulled it all apart checked it, reassembled it and it fired up fine. Anybody know what the hell happened?

boosted1205

iTrader: (9)

When you stab the CAS back in, the gear will move a few degrees. You need to remove the cap and keep the gear from moving after you align the timing mark and yellow marker on the pulley.
Maybe you might have gotten lucky when you kept trying to stab in the CAS and it aligned close enough to start. I have never had a problem starting the car when I remove the cover on the CAS and keep the gear from moving (usually stab a small screwdriver between gears).
After it starts, set the timing.

Syonyk

Eh, you can start & run the car with the timing 15-20 degrees off. Don't ask how I know. It doesn't run well, and it tends to run hot, but it will run (at least if the timing is retarded by that far).

If the needle bearing falls out & gets squashed, there will be *no* endplay. If you get in there & try to move the pulley, there should be a minute (but still noticeable) amount of freeplay, front to rear. If there's nothing, time to replace that bearing & anything else it took out. Again, don't ask how I know.

-=Russ=-

bcool

Yeah after it ran i had someone push the cluth in and you could see the pulley move minutely. As for the CAS i marked it inside with a marker and then i droped it in and and set it back to the lines that i marked it with (belive me, it was right)

j200pruf

iTrader: (4)

I did have the clutch pushed in the whole time. I am going to restab the CAS and get the timing sorted. I will go pull out my dial indicator and check the end play before I leave for work.

And when you stab the CAS you align the pointer with the mark that is on the right of the pulley as you look at it from teh front of the car right?

boosted1205

iTrader: (9)

On the CAS gear (at the bottom), there is a pointer and a dot. Align those two and stab it in.