removing vac rack
09-04-04, 08:17 PM
#1
removing vac rack
I'm having a few issues while trying to remove the vac rack. Basically I was wondering what happens to the stock fpr when you remove the rack??? Where do you place it when you are finnished? Also what do you need to keep if you are planning on keeping your bac valve??? Thanks.
09-04-04, 08:26 PM
#2
Originally Posted by NZConvertible
Here's what will be left.
The info Spool_TSI posted is correct, except the oil injectors suck air from before the throttle, they do not see vacuum.
As for the TB mod, the instructions are pretty clear what to do with the plugs. Where's the confusion?
The info Spool_TSI posted is correct, except the oil injectors suck air from before the throttle, they do not see vacuum.
As for the TB mod, the instructions are pretty clear what to do with the plugs. Where's the confusion?
very cool! You are full of these great diagrams
09-04-04, 08:29 PM
#3
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heres a real good write up, i think the fpr just need to be on a vacuum nipple somwhere
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/emissions-equipment-what-you-can-remove-how-112251/
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/emissions-equipment-what-you-can-remove-how-112251/
09-04-04, 08:30 PM
#4
just one question though that arrow pointing out of the check valve at the switching actuator....does that go to where the arrow is pointing in toward the uim??? Also if I'm not using the twin scroll can I just cap that ( I would assume yes). Alos one more thing (did I say one question??? LOL) if I just disconnect the c clamp on the switching actuator does it automaticly stay open??? Thanks.
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09-04-04, 08:42 PM
#8
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for the coolant lines i just went to auto zone and bought the big black vacuum line caps and put them on the nipples and bought some clamps and clamped them down and i have no water leaks
09-05-04, 12:33 AM
#10
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Honda Dude, what the heck are you tearing up now?
The coolant hoses to the BAC are to prevent freezing; in La. you may not need them, who knows?
Here again is only my recommendation, do what you will....Route the rear side housing's coolant path back to the water pump nipple using one run of hose. Believe it or not, your engine will run cooler than if you just cap the two ends off. A conclusion from another thread a couple of weeks ago...
How's the rest of the project going?
The coolant hoses to the BAC are to prevent freezing; in La. you may not need them, who knows?
Here again is only my recommendation, do what you will....Route the rear side housing's coolant path back to the water pump nipple using one run of hose. Believe it or not, your engine will run cooler than if you just cap the two ends off. A conclusion from another thread a couple of weeks ago...
How's the rest of the project going?
09-05-04, 04:00 AM
#11
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Originally Posted by hondahater
very cool! You are full of these great diagrams
...that arrow pointing out of the check valve at the switching actuator....does that go to where the arrow is pointing in toward the uim?
Also if I'm not using the twin scroll can I just cap that.
if I just disconnect the c clamp on the switching actuator does it automaticly stay open?
I'm not to sure on is the big hose that comes out of the rear rotor housing as well as the coolant line that comes out of the back of the water pump housing.
can I still run the bac valve without the coolant lines or do I have to cap it off as well?
Originally Posted by WAYNE88N/A
The coolant hoses to the BAC are to prevent freezing...
09-05-04, 08:11 AM
#12
Wow! all my questions answered!!!! Thanks!!! You guys are awesome!!!! Ok sorry just really excited Anyways wayne I'm tearing up my emissions stuff now I did all the homework yesterday and today is time to remove. The only thing I"m not sure of but should probably do because I'm here is do the premix mod. What do you think??? I heard on one of your posts you said your car started to brake alot more without it, where you serious or just a coinsidance??? Thanks again guys!!!!
Anyways wayne I'm tearing up my emissions stuff now I did all the homework yesterday and today is time to remove. The only thing I"m not sure of but should probably do because I'm here is do the premix mod. What do you think??? I heard on one of your posts you said your car started to brake alot more without it, where you serious or just a coinsidance??? Thanks again guys!!!!
09-05-04, 12:14 PM
#13
well thanks to you guys I got my vac rack off. I also found some really small connectors to connect the wires that are supposed to go to the water thermo sensor and bac valve! I'm waiting on mazda trix to get my orings and grommets and uim gasket while I'm doing that I"m going to have my injectors cleaned. Thanks for the hep guys and I'm sure I'll have more questions when i put everything back together.
ps. looked everywhere for a damn banjo bolt and I couldn't find any that are metric.
ps. looked everywhere for a damn banjo bolt and I couldn't find any that are metric.
09-21-04, 10:04 PM
#14
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WEll, maybe I'm wrong. Do you have a series four turboii??????????? I know not what that nipple is on a series four. I don't have one on either of my engines. Do you have a series five???? Jap engine???????? USA engine?????
09-21-04, 10:42 PM
#16
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So, how are you progressing with this project? I thought it was gonna be a PITA, but it was pretty simple. I just ran new lines, a few vac lines, ran my catchcan through the factory PCV piping to the front of the car near the overflow tank, and the rest was cake.
09-21-04, 10:42 PM
#17
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Ahhhh, I see now. I posted an answer to your other thread on this thread. Kinda screwed up things. I'll answer only on the other thread from now. Anybody confused besides me? Just ignore it and go do something useful.
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