Eduardo Santos

Hello.
Does anyone know how to remove this black sound deadning material without ripping it off?
I've already removed all the cables on that area, all of the nuts, the acellerator pedal, the clutch pump and the main brake pump + servo, but it seems like that metal area where the pedals are somehow stops the material from coming off without ripping.

satch

iTrader: (1)

A heat gun or dry ice should work.

Nassin31spr

iTrader: (3)

Go to your local Harris teeter or large grocery chain and get a coupe pounds of dry ice. Break the dry ice up and put it on the sound deadening. Wear gloves and use a hammer and a chisel. The colder you get it the easier it will break right off.

Eduardo Santos

Ok, it's my fault, I wasn't specific enough.
I'm not talking about the golden heat isolation material, I'm talking about the black thing that is attached to the firewall.

In pictures:
I'm not talking about the stuff marked in red, I'm talking about the stuff marked in green:





What do I need to remove more, so I won't rip it off?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

it's glued to the firewall, literally the only way is to yank it off and then try to scrape off whatever fiber is left.

Eduardo Santos

Are you sure? Because I was able to start to take the upper part without any effort. It didn't seem like it ever had any sort of glue at all...
And on the passenger side all of it is easy to take off. Only the part on the driver side is difficult because of that metal stuff where the pedals are mounted.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

try it and find out, i always find the fibers sticky in some spots but the glue has probably released in all these years.

RX7SEVENS4FC

Dry ice does the job. Its like a dollar a pound you should be good with 25 pounds.

Eduardo Santos

I think that I didn't explained myself well enough, so I decided to make this video:


NOTE: @ 00:34 it may seem (once again) like I'm talking about the golden stuff which is glued to the firewall. I'm actually talking about the black stuff which I'm holding with my hands.

Eduardo Santos

Nobody?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

if you're trying to remove it without damaging it then you need to remove the steering column first, which is attached with a through bolt on the u-joint flange down at the rack.

Eduardo Santos

Are you telling me that the metal plate on the firewall around the steering column (the one that holds the pedals), will only come off after I remove the steering column?

TonyD89

iTrader: (10)

It appears in you're video, by just removing the steering column bolts at the base of the column, you might get some give or flex in the problematic "metal piece", as you call it.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

I'm not sure why you're agonizing over this.
No matter how you try and remove that pad, you're going to lose most of the horsehair backing, so it won't be very effective as a heat/sound shield anyway (not that it ever was particularly).

You're much better off using the same mat on the firewall as you'll use everywhere else (Dynamat, Fat Mat, etc.).

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

you may get away with letting the column hang but obviously the pedal bracket has to be removed and the column is holding it to the firewall currently.

i'm also unsure why you're agonizing over this, removing the dash was the hard part.

Eduardo Santos

I was just trying to keep most of it's original material, but it's OK. If it rips, I'll just get another thing to do the same job as this does.

Thank you very much for all your help, people.