TheDarkRacer

Just wondering what all i need to do/remove/block to make sure it works right. Its a 87 gxl fyi.

need RX7

iTrader: (4)

Converting an existing power rack to manual, the thorough way: http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=54847

Or you could always swap in a factory manual rack. The ratios are different, but it's not a big deal. I <3 my manual rack(s).

Gabriel82

iTrader: (8)

You shouldn't block it off the valves on the rack is meant for fluid and pressure. If you block it off you will get an air bubble and there can be a possibility that when you are driving on the freeway or street the steering wheel might lock up. If there are manual racks out there I would highly recommend you installing a manual rack rather than blocking off the power steering rack you currently have on.

t24todd

iTrader: (7)

I removed the bracket/whole pump assembly/ pl/rl ... topped it off with fluid and blocked it off. never had a problem with it over a year driving. Nice and tight always,great feedback in the turns... of course i want to depower it the correct way to get full benifts because a depowered rack has quicker ratios than a manual but i need warmer weather

soldier_boi

cant you just remove the power steering belt and that would solve everything?

t24todd

iTrader: (7)

to a degree but whats the point of having 35lbs worth of pointless **** taking up space on the left side of engine compartment. If it works leave it alone but with the age of our cars alot of parts fail or are inoperable and replacment parts are very costly and hard to find at times so you take the other step.

ScrapFC

iTrader: (5)

If you just remove the ps belt you wind up with heavy, sluggish steering. If you plug all the ports, you're begging to die.

On my old GXL racer, I plugged the ports on the upper valve assembly, looped the lines on the rack body (so fluid could circulate from one side to the other) and removed everything else. I loved it. The quick ratio made countersteering super easy. Almost everyone else who drove the car thought it was too heavy.

I highly recommend TitaniumTTs method if you want to de-power a ps rack. Just hire a professional if you don't have teh awesome welding skillz. My pinion shaft developed a fair bit of slop as I wore out the control valve with all my heavy-handed steering. When I tried to weld it, it warped.

If you're not willing to go to the effort to convert the ps rack properly, just drop in a non-ps rack and be done...

87 t-66

iTrader: (133)

remove power steering rack and pump/reservoir assembly. bolt in manual rack. done. it would be a good idea to replace the tie rod ends while you're at it.

TheDarkRacer

thanks for all the help, and im removing it cuz the ps bracket on the block is stripped to hell and back and i didnt have time to worry about that **** so yea...

Okay Ill plug the ports then loop the lines.

ill get around to taking the rack apart but ill prob just loop the lines for now i just gotta get the car running here soon...

TheDarkRacer

okay so a quick question. I found the thread pitch's for the ps rack but im not sure what ones go for wut hole. So wut is the thread pitch for the 3 holes on the right of this pic?


Are they P/S Rack Lines (two): M12 x 1.25

P/S Rack Lines (third, some models): M16 x 1.50

P/S Banjo Bolt: 10mm fine thread (go into the end of the steering link, from the pump)
???

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

Open the rack up, remove all the PS seals as stated in the link given above. Weld the "quill" so you have no free play, remove seals on the quill Grease the gears and tig weld the openings for the lines solid and shut...

Do not think about leaving fluid in the rack.... either convert it the right way or get a manual rack...

If you do it the right way, the rack will feel great!

jdm_emperor

iTrader: (6)

is there any thing you have to remove to get steering rack?

Turbo II Rotor

iTrader: (2)

No, they came on the car from the factory.

TheDarkRacer

u guys blow dick.. ugg.. lol i said ill weld the rack later i just need to know the bolt sizes... is it really that hard to answer a simple question.

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

Use a thread pitch gauge..... Or the hardware or parts store should have a thread pitch fixture where you screw in your bolt and it says the pitch and size on it...

TheDarkRacer

been to 4 different auto parts stores and yea none had the correct size. hopefully napa will have it..