Removing the oil cooler thermostat?
#1
Removing the oil cooler thermostat?
Hi guys,
Ever since I got my car (a couple of years ago) I noticed that the oil PSI was kind of low @ idle (below 30psi on the stock gauge). It has been a normal issue and my mechanic confirmed to be a normal when using 10-30w oil, and a 90F environment.
On any case, I've noticed that my car is burning around two quarts of oil every 3000 miles, now the oil dipstick reads full, but when I change the oil, I only get 2 quarts out of it.
On my quest trying to find the problem, I noticed an oil leak on one of the oil cooler lines. I removed the oiol cooler from the car ( so that I could clean it) and replaced both washers (one on each line), I also used some teflon on the line threads. That actually solved the oil leak for a couple of weeks, however I just noticed that there is a leak coming from the oil cooler thermostat bolt. I try to remove this bolt when I replaced the other washers and had the oil cooler out of the car, but I couldn't break it loose, so I thought it would've been easier to remove it once the oil cooler is back into its mounts.
So my question is, What;s the easiest way to remove thsi bolt? I plan on replacing the thermostat\sprin, and washers, but that is one stuborn bolt
Ever since I got my car (a couple of years ago) I noticed that the oil PSI was kind of low @ idle (below 30psi on the stock gauge). It has been a normal issue and my mechanic confirmed to be a normal when using 10-30w oil, and a 90F environment.
On any case, I've noticed that my car is burning around two quarts of oil every 3000 miles, now the oil dipstick reads full, but when I change the oil, I only get 2 quarts out of it.
On my quest trying to find the problem, I noticed an oil leak on one of the oil cooler lines. I removed the oiol cooler from the car ( so that I could clean it) and replaced both washers (one on each line), I also used some teflon on the line threads. That actually solved the oil leak for a couple of weeks, however I just noticed that there is a leak coming from the oil cooler thermostat bolt. I try to remove this bolt when I replaced the other washers and had the oil cooler out of the car, but I couldn't break it loose, so I thought it would've been easier to remove it once the oil cooler is back into its mounts.
So my question is, What;s the easiest way to remove thsi bolt? I plan on replacing the thermostat\sprin, and washers, but that is one stuborn bolt
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#2
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
I just used a 3/8 inch drive breaker bar to remove the bolt when mine was leaking from the bolt.
You may need to remove the oil cooler if the mounts are old and loose. When they are loose, then its hard to get enough torque to loosen the bolt
You may need to remove the oil cooler if the mounts are old and loose. When they are loose, then its hard to get enough torque to loosen the bolt
#4
Don't use pipe tape on the threads as they are a straight thread w/ sealing done by the crush washers- like most all metric stuff, no taper thread). Chances are you will just trap some tape inbetween the washer and mess up the seal. Hylomar works well to lube the threads for good torqueing and to help the crush washers seal-also make sure it is all clean when it goes together.
The lines are often a culprit for leaks in these. Mine only leaked when flexed by the engine so it was hard to diagnose untill I pressure tested them and wiggled them at the same time. The bypass is the low point oil will collect on, are you sure it is leaking?
The lines are often a culprit for leaks in these. Mine only leaked when flexed by the engine so it was hard to diagnose untill I pressure tested them and wiggled them at the same time. The bypass is the low point oil will collect on, are you sure it is leaking?
#6
Thanks for the responses!!
Icemark - I'm using the OEM oil cooler mounts, did you had any problems with them when breaking loose the oil thermo?
Brian P - I wish!! Trust me, if I had on I wouldn't be asking![Wink](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/wink.gif)
BLUE TII - I have the RB ones, I just used some teflon for an estra insurance. Thanks for the Hylomar advice, I don't really know what that is, but I'll look it up![Smilie](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
BTW - I'm 90% sure the oil leak is at the oil thermo bolt. When I replaced the washers, I completly clean the oil coolerm, so I can clearly see there is no oil crud near the oil lines.
GatorRX - That was my primary fear when I had the initial leak coming from the oil lines.
Thanks everybody!
Icemark - I'm using the OEM oil cooler mounts, did you had any problems with them when breaking loose the oil thermo?
Brian P - I wish!! Trust me, if I had on I wouldn't be asking
![Wink](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/wink.gif)
BLUE TII - I have the RB ones, I just used some teflon for an estra insurance. Thanks for the Hylomar advice, I don't really know what that is, but I'll look it up
![Smilie](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
BTW - I'm 90% sure the oil leak is at the oil thermo bolt. When I replaced the washers, I completly clean the oil coolerm, so I can clearly see there is no oil crud near the oil lines.
GatorRX - That was my primary fear when I had the initial leak coming from the oil lines.
Thanks everybody!
#7
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally posted by KNONFS
Thanks for the responses!!
Icemark - I'm using the OEM oil cooler mounts, did you had any problems with them when breaking loose the oil thermo?
Thanks for the responses!!
Icemark - I'm using the OEM oil cooler mounts, did you had any problems with them when breaking loose the oil thermo?
I found it much easlier when the cooler was out and on the ground, because of the movement.
But if you are not also replacing the lines it might not be worth the trouble. Just get a nice 6 point socket and extra long breaker bar (or breaker bar with a peice of pipe on the end).
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#8
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I tried to pull that bolt off mine when I was doing my rebuild (to clean it out) I put a 300+ Ft. Lb. impact wrench on it ... it didn't come off after a couple of quick hits ... so I said ***-it Left it on there... It was quite happy where it was, I was afraid to turn the gun up any higher... just to clean it. So, beware that SOB might be on damn tight .. mine was.
#9
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Originally posted by BLUE TII
Hylomar works well to lube the threads for good torqueing and to help the crush washers seal-also make sure it is all clean when it goes together.
Hylomar works well to lube the threads for good torqueing and to help the crush washers seal-also make sure it is all clean when it goes together.
-Ted
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