Removing lateral links
#1
Removing lateral links
I'm in the process of replacing my subframe and I can't for the life of me get the later link ball joints to pull out of the subframe. I've got the 17mm nuts removed from the ball joint studs and the trailing arms are disconnected along with the front diff mount but those later links are keeping me from pulling the subframe outta there. My manual says to take a hammer and brass punch and punch them out, but for one, I don't have much room to build enough speed with the hammer to get a good swing and two, I'm assuming I would have to do the same to get them back on which would be even harder?
Anybody have any good techniques for getting these off?
Thanks,
~Ant
Anybody have any good techniques for getting these off?
Thanks,
~Ant
#6
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I had to replace it because my rear diff mount sheared off from the subframe mounting tab, usually the rear diff mount just rips but that wasnt the case here
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#7
Engine, Not Motor
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You can take off the nut, then thread it on a few threads and use a deep well impact socket to hit it with a hammer.
But I see you already have them out and back in.
It is worrisome that you tightened them with a breaker bar, because everything on the suspension has a torque spec.
But I see you already have them out and back in.
It is worrisome that you tightened them with a breaker bar, because everything on the suspension has a torque spec.
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#8
You can take off the nut, then thread it on a few threads and use a deep well impact socket to hit it with a hammer.
But I see you already have them out and back in.
It is worrisome that you tightened them with a breaker bar, because everything on the suspension has a torque spec.
But I see you already have them out and back in.
It is worrisome that you tightened them with a breaker bar, because everything on the suspension has a torque spec.
#9
Thanks, I didn't know that. I tightened them down with a 2 foot long breaker bar so they're pretty dang tight but if the car does jump around I'll know where to look
.
I had to replace it because my rear diff mount sheared off from the subframe mounting tab, usually the rear diff mount just rips but that wasnt the case here![Blush](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/smiley_emoticons_blush-reloaded3.gif)
![Icon Tup](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/icon_tup.gif)
I had to replace it because my rear diff mount sheared off from the subframe mounting tab, usually the rear diff mount just rips but that wasnt the case here
![Blush](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/smiley_emoticons_blush-reloaded3.gif)
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Ouch.. I've seen pictures of that happening.. Driving pretty hard then? lol..
Aaron>> It was the normal DeWalt 1/2" drive electric, just like this: http://www.homedepot.ca/wcsstore/Hom...7d877e48_4.jpg
I think I only hit it for a second or two after it snugged down, to be sure. [the bolt/stud end kept spinning when I was using a ratchet.. So I had to use the impact]
#11
If you haven't already, install a pinion snubber. Just drill a hole in the hump in the floor (about an inch diameter) through the first layer of sheet metal. Then drill a 1/4" hole for the snubber in the second layer of metal. Throw a couple washers between the rubber and the sheet metal, install your lock not, reinstall the diff/subframe and then torque down the snubber.
Keeps the diff from moving ANYWHERE. Really cheap preventive maintenance.
Keeps the diff from moving ANYWHERE. Really cheap preventive maintenance.
#12
Engine, Not Motor
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Over torque can be worse then low torque. If you have tightened fasteners past their yeild point, they can break at any time. If you really did crank down on the thing wihgt a 4 foot breaker bar, then replace the fasteners. On the lateral link, this probably means replacing the link.
#13
U guys were right about torquing down all the bolts...seems like my rear diff mount has wiggled itself loose and is pressing up against the pinion snubber, lol. Guess the subframe is coming down again, lol. I doubt I can fit a torque wrench up there tho...my foot and a pry bar might have to be suffice.
#14
If you jack up the rear of the car enough a torque wrench can easily fit, but if you are trying to torque the two front diff-mount nuts have fun. The space isn't the best to do it in with the whole subframe on the chassis, you may have to drop the subframe a bit for some room....
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