Removing extra pullies.
04-26-03, 08:35 PM
#1
Removing extra pullies.
Ok I now have one belt on my engine: no a/c, air pump, or PS. I searched a bit and found this thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...main+and+pully
I have an S4 engine I want to remove the parts of the main pully that used to be for the AC and PS do I just remove the four bolts or do i have to take off the large one too? Do i still have to derpress the clutch while I do it? Do I need to know anything else befor I do this?
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...main+and+pully
I have an S4 engine I want to remove the parts of the main pully that used to be for the AC and PS do I just remove the four bolts or do i have to take off the large one too? Do i still have to derpress the clutch while I do it? Do I need to know anything else befor I do this?
04-26-03, 09:24 PM
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he sorry I'm feelen sick, messen up my typing, those 4 bolts hold all the pully's on a single hub that the 19mm bolt secures to the engine, by removing the 4 bolts you can remove the air pump, and P/S pully, but it would be a good Idea to keep the 2 pully's are the same size, here a pic is worth a 1000 words
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04-26-03, 10:12 PM
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Originally posted by BlackRx7
he sorry I'm feelen sick, messen up my typing, those 4 bolts hold all the pully's on a single hub that the 19mm bolt secures to the engine, by removing the 4 bolts you can remove the air pump, and P/S pully, but it would be a good Idea to keep the 2 pully's are the same size, here a pic is worth a 1000 words
he sorry I'm feelen sick, messen up my typing, those 4 bolts hold all the pully's on a single hub that the 19mm bolt secures to the engine, by removing the 4 bolts you can remove the air pump, and P/S pully, but it would be a good Idea to keep the 2 pully's are the same size, here a pic is worth a 1000 words
04-26-03, 10:18 PM
#10
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hehe very true, I'll do that one of these days, btw 1987rx7guy I Have a dual belt pully, I know the pic looks like I'm only running one belt but there is actually two, so just make sure to keep the to pullies that are the same size, I think there connected so it should be a problem, decided its time to chnage the avatar and sig
04-26-03, 11:03 PM
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04-27-03, 01:29 AM
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wait a minute, to take off the crank main e shaft pulley, all you need to do is undo the 4 small ones? i thought you had to take out the big center nut as well...
can someone clear this up for me?
can someone clear this up for me?
04-27-03, 01:44 AM
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The TII in the pic in this thread has an extra piece on it as well. That spacer ring isn't needed either. The hub is thick enough to prevent any thread contact from the bolts and one pulley.
The 4 outer bolts are the only ones which need to come out. If you pull the center bolt you will remove the hub. (not needed and can be very bad for your engine if done wrong)
The center of the pulleys is pretty tight tolerance to the hub, so rust builds up in there and locks them together. Some persuasion with a deadblow hammer or rubber mallet should liberate the unwanted pulleys. Just make sure you line up the holes in the hub with the pulley right. It is timed with the crank afterall and the timing marks need to be in the right spot. (there's only one way to install it, so don't go hogging out the holes to make it fit)
The 4 outer bolts are the only ones which need to come out. If you pull the center bolt you will remove the hub. (not needed and can be very bad for your engine if done wrong)
The center of the pulleys is pretty tight tolerance to the hub, so rust builds up in there and locks them together. Some persuasion with a deadblow hammer or rubber mallet should liberate the unwanted pulleys. Just make sure you line up the holes in the hub with the pulley right. It is timed with the crank afterall and the timing marks need to be in the right spot. (there's only one way to install it, so don't go hogging out the holes to make it fit)
04-27-03, 01:48 AM
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really? thats wierd... i thought you had to take out the huge middle nut to take off the main pulley, thats definitely a plus, i can install my SR underdrive main pulley now...
04-27-03, 01:57 AM
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Yep, I just did it again yesturday after having to pull the pulley off to remove the water pump housing. (now I have a mechanical water temp gauge)
I want to replace my steel pipe thermowax pellet fix with a better one and I am afraid of messing up my backlash on the e-shaft if I take it back out.
I want to replace my steel pipe thermowax pellet fix with a better one and I am afraid of messing up my backlash on the e-shaft if I take it back out.
04-27-03, 02:09 AM
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yeah i want to do that too, but same thing...you gotta be very careful with that ****...sweet, im gonna install my pulley tomorrow morning...or should i do it now? hmmmm....
04-27-03, 02:53 AM
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You don't need the "center"piece out to remove the pulleys though. The only thing you need is the four outter bolts removed and the hub stays put. It might not want to let go of the pullies due to them being rusted in place.
Or, your underdrive pulley replaces the hub... in which case you have to only remove the center bolt and then take the hub out and replace the whole thing.
Do you have a pic of the underdrive pulley?
Or, your underdrive pulley replaces the hub... in which case you have to only remove the center bolt and then take the hub out and replace the whole thing.
Do you have a pic of the underdrive pulley?
04-27-03, 03:10 AM
#21
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Jimmy is right dude, the pulleys are secured to the hub via the 4 bolts, only the hub is secured by the fron e-shaft bolt. (If you want proff I can post a pic of my newly rebuilt motor 
Damn Jimmy everyone has to call you a liar don't they
Damn Jimmy everyone has to call you a liar don't they
04-27-03, 03:18 AM
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Well, I hope to get my front sticky 6 port sleeve working or I might have to dyno sunday with them wired open. It sucks because I have two massive papers due this week and no time to work on the car. My front right wheel bearing is possibly making noise. (I have play but cant tell if its the ball joint or the bearing yet) Too much **** to do!
My airflow readings are down 5% from where they should be, and my car is acting hella rich now that I disconnected my a/f meter. It's all really bad timing, considering the dyno session will only allow two pulls this time around. (group event thing)
Still doesn't change the fact that I could hang with a mustang GT up into 3rd with him in front of me controling the launch tonight. I don't give a rats *** who believes me.
I will be putting up the proof soon enough though. Call me whatever you want, but you better be damn sure you can back it up.
My airflow readings are down 5% from where they should be, and my car is acting hella rich now that I disconnected my a/f meter. It's all really bad timing, considering the dyno session will only allow two pulls this time around. (group event thing)
Still doesn't change the fact that I could hang with a mustang GT up into 3rd with him in front of me controling the launch tonight. I don't give a rats *** who believes me.
I will be putting up the proof soon enough though. Call me whatever you want, but you better be damn sure you can back it up.
04-27-03, 05:05 AM
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heh sorry, i got it... see the pulley i have came with a hub...so after a bit of pounding i got that one out and slid the pulley onto the original hub on my car already... i thought it was all one piece, but it turns out its not... thanks for the help dude!
i took it for a spin real quick after i finished and didnt notice any difference...
do these add to the top end or what?
oh and one more question... how tight should the belts be? you cant OVER tighten them can you?
i took it for a spin real quick after i finished and didnt notice any difference...
do these add to the top end or what?oh and one more question... how tight should the belts be? you cant OVER tighten them can you?
04-27-03, 01:28 PM
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Yes, you can over tighten them. The answer is tight enough that they don't slip, but thats not very helpful. You should have enough slack to move the longest stretch of belt no more than 1/2".
If you tighten them too much you put excess side load on the bearings in the alternator and water pump and will end up with those components failing early.
If you tighten them too much you put excess side load on the bearings in the alternator and water pump and will end up with those components failing early.