Removing Engine tips
#26
i am legendary
Pulling an engine is super easy!
Pull off all intake manifolds and accessory bs, that's what I always do.
Unhook oil cooler lines.
Unhook all plugs/****, move harness to side.
Drain fluids and take off radiator hoses.
Unhook downpipe, header, whatever you have.
Unbolt engine mounts.
Bolt the links of the engine hoist.
Pull it out!
I've pulled the engine twice with the hood on and once with the hood off, both are easy. Never had to remove radiator or anything like I've heard some people suggest, and when I did it with the hood on I just propped it up higher than normal. With the hood off it took freaking zero time to get that out. It's common sense, really, if you're smart and good at problem solving it'll take you no time at all.
Also, unlike Felix ( ) I would suggest using more than 1 hook to pull the engine
I always use at least 2 positions where 1 is usually bolted to the header stud and the other is either bolted somewhere else opposite side or on a hook or something. And then I use a leveler too to make it come out without too much tilt (so it wont pull up on the tranny too much).
Pull off all intake manifolds and accessory bs, that's what I always do.
Unhook oil cooler lines.
Unhook all plugs/****, move harness to side.
Drain fluids and take off radiator hoses.
Unhook downpipe, header, whatever you have.
Unbolt engine mounts.
Bolt the links of the engine hoist.
Pull it out!
I've pulled the engine twice with the hood on and once with the hood off, both are easy. Never had to remove radiator or anything like I've heard some people suggest, and when I did it with the hood on I just propped it up higher than normal. With the hood off it took freaking zero time to get that out. It's common sense, really, if you're smart and good at problem solving it'll take you no time at all.
Also, unlike Felix ( ) I would suggest using more than 1 hook to pull the engine
I always use at least 2 positions where 1 is usually bolted to the header stud and the other is either bolted somewhere else opposite side or on a hook or something. And then I use a leveler too to make it come out without too much tilt (so it wont pull up on the tranny too much).
Last edited by ddub; 07-05-05 at 01:49 AM.
#27
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well I have a koyo which is the reason I remove the rad, not to mention that I have to remove the oil cooler line from the oil cooler itself. I remove motor only, I can bolt on everr bolt for the for the bellhousing from the top, for the exception of the starter bolts. The motor aligns with the trany easily.
#29
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Originally Posted by myexlex
It is alot easier to remove the hood and to leave it long block. Youd be surprised how easy it is to strip it once its out of the bay. I remove motor only if Im just replacing the motor. To align the clutch to the input shaft, put the motor so that the input shaft is in the clutch, then turn the motor with a 19mm socket untill the motor slides into the bellhousing.
thx
also what size wrench for those oil cooler line fittings heh..
#31
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Originally Posted by dDuB
Crescent wrench is what I use, nice and adjustable.
Christ, why the hell didn't I think of that! Heh. cause it wasn't in my toolbox.
thx bro.
I bet im gonna need a breaker bar for those bastards...
#32
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
yeah i tryed to find the rite size for them lines with my wrentches or sockets they were either to big or too small, so i used a adjustable wrentch, call me a hack but it worked
#33
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Originally Posted by BlaCkPlaGUE
*slaps head... hard
Christ, why the hell didn't I think of that! Heh. cause it wasn't in my toolbox.
thx bro.
I bet im gonna need a breaker bar for those bastards...
Christ, why the hell didn't I think of that! Heh. cause it wasn't in my toolbox.
thx bro.
I bet im gonna need a breaker bar for those bastards...
Front I used a crescent and a thin (cant remember size) wrench to get it off the front cover. My normal wrench was too thick, couldn't get it in between the fittings, but my friends dad's wrenches were very slightly thinner and worked wonders.
#34
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Originally Posted by BlaCkPlaGUE
also what size wrench for those oil cooler line fittings heh..
A crescent wrench may work, but I prefer adding a new wrench to my toolbox over rounding off the head on that banjo bolt. The banjo bolt probably costs more than the wrench, and will be harder to find. But, I have a serious tool fetish that I can't control, and will always opt for the new tool.
#35
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Originally Posted by BlaCkPlaGUE
Could you elaborate this more? sounds interesting, but im not to sure what your talking about. I understand what to do, but how does the engine align properly by turning it over, and how does it automatically corkscrew into the clutch/bellhousing?
thx
also what size wrench for those oil cooler line fittings heh..
thx
also what size wrench for those oil cooler line fittings heh..
And ddub its not a question about skill, you never know if the chain might slip or something. Its 2 bolts and the hoses to remove the rad, its more of a peace of mind type of thing.
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OK, I'm making good progress on my removal. It looks like I've cleared the passenger side and I've only got a few items left on the drivers side. One of them is the A/C compressor and PS pump. Is it possible to remove the entire mounting braket from the engine? I can see 3 bolts, but there is one just below the CAS that doesn't look accessible.
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Originally Posted by johnnyg
OK, I'm making good progress on my removal. It looks like I've cleared the passenger side and I've only got a few items left on the drivers side. One of them is the A/C compressor and PS pump. Is it possible to remove the entire mounting braket from the engine? I can see 3 bolts, but there is one just below the CAS that doesn't look accessible.
#38
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Seriously, save yourself the trouble of taking absolutely everything off. I pulled the engine and tranny together and it made things a lot easier. To make it better, its a lot easier to get the tranny off and back on out of the car. Just get the hood off, pull off the power steering and AC pumps and set them aside (or remove if your like me lol), take off oil cooler lines and oil cooler, radiator has to come out unless you like the thought of pulling the engine through it, and unhook every thing that will obviously have to be disconnected. I found it easiest to get in the car under the dash and unplug the engine harness to take it out with the engine. That way i took my entire engine out in longblock form, with the manifolds on and the entire engine harness still connected to the engine. Now that the motor is out I can weed through the harness easier. For the tranny wiring make sure you lable everything so you don't forget which one goes where. Masking tape and a sharpie work wonders for that stuff Also make sure you mark the driveshaft where it connects to the diff...that has to go back in the same position for balance purposes. It took my friend and I about 3 hours to pull the engine this way, and this is the first engine I have pulled. After doing it I thought, hmmm....no big deal. Hope that helps, feel free to PM me with more questions...just got done dropping my new carb motor and tranny back in. Should be running soon.
#39
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Originally Posted by johnnyg
OK, I'm making good progress on my removal. It looks like I've cleared the passenger side and I've only got a few items left on the drivers side. One of them is the A/C compressor and PS pump. Is it possible to remove the entire mounting braket from the engine? I can see 3 bolts, but there is one just below the CAS that doesn't look accessible.
#40
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Originally Posted by MARTIN
I never understood why people stip the motor in the car... you should be able to remove it from the car.
Overall though, I'm quite satisfied with my decision to strip it before pulling it. I've got 4 hours into it so far and maybe another 2 before she's ready to be pulled. The pile of parts on the garage floor is small and neat. In short, all that stuff has to come off anyway and it certainly wasn't difficult to do it while in the car.
#41
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Originally Posted by wheelmanst
Yes it is possible to remove the bracket. I actually took that off my motor before I pulled it out. Shouldnt be that hard to get to the lower bolts, I know it wasnt fun but I got them out fine before I started pulling the motor.
#42
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Originally Posted by johnnyg
Only I don't want to disconnect the A/C. There's no good reason to.
Overall though, I'm quite satisfied with my decision to strip it before pulling it. I've got 4 hours into it so far and maybe another 2 before she's ready to be pulled. The pile of parts on the garage floor is small and neat. In short, all that stuff has to come off anyway and it certainly wasn't difficult to do it while in the car.
Overall though, I'm quite satisfied with my decision to strip it before pulling it. I've got 4 hours into it so far and maybe another 2 before she's ready to be pulled. The pile of parts on the garage floor is small and neat. In short, all that stuff has to come off anyway and it certainly wasn't difficult to do it while in the car.
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Originally Posted by johnnyg
Only I don't want to disconnect the A/C. There's no good reason to.
Overall though, I'm quite satisfied with my decision to strip it before pulling it. I've got 4 hours into it so far and maybe another 2 before she's ready to be pulled. The pile of parts on the garage floor is small and neat. In short, all that stuff has to come off anyway and it certainly wasn't difficult to do it while in the car.
Overall though, I'm quite satisfied with my decision to strip it before pulling it. I've got 4 hours into it so far and maybe another 2 before she's ready to be pulled. The pile of parts on the garage floor is small and neat. In short, all that stuff has to come off anyway and it certainly wasn't difficult to do it while in the car.
#44
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Nope, no problems at all, but I didn't realise this was a race.
I've worked on my '7 plenty (it's never been to the shop), but 'tis my first time pulling an engine of any sort, so I'm taking 'er easy.
edit: Oh wait! You didn't think I had spent 6 hours removing JUST the A/C & power steering pump, did you?!! THAT would sure be a sign to stop, put down the wrench, and call a tow truck!
I've worked on my '7 plenty (it's never been to the shop), but 'tis my first time pulling an engine of any sort, so I'm taking 'er easy.
edit: Oh wait! You didn't think I had spent 6 hours removing JUST the A/C & power steering pump, did you?!! THAT would sure be a sign to stop, put down the wrench, and call a tow truck!
Last edited by johnnyg; 07-05-05 at 11:46 PM.
#45
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Originally Posted by wheelmanst
Yes it is possible to remove the bracket. I actually took that off my motor before I pulled it out. Shouldnt be that hard to get to the lower bolts, I know it wasnt fun but I got them out fine before I started pulling the motor.
New question...I tried to carefully disconnect the front oil cooler line but I'm a touch confused. Do I hold the 2nd (smaller) nut with one wrench while turning the other?
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Originally Posted by johnnyg
New question...I tried to carefully disconnect the front oil cooler line but I'm a touch confused. Do I hold the 2nd (smaller) nut with one wrench while turning the other?
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Originally Posted by johnnyg
New question...I tried to carefully disconnect the front oil cooler line but I'm a touch confused. Do I hold the 2nd (smaller) nut with one wrench while turning the other?
#48
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Lmao! That sounds just like what I ended up doing. I got so frustrated I said screw it, im getting SS lines anyway and just cut the damn things off! I couldn't break the front line loose to save my life. Rear was fine, cus well, when in doubt an impact gun does loosen things you wouldn't be able to do by hand
#49
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Before I go buying tools today, is the smaller one 17mm, and the bigger one 22mm?
Depending on how the whole budget works out, and depending on whether I can remove the darn thing from the engine or just give up and cut , I will try to squeeze in some SS lines!
Depending on how the whole budget works out, and depending on whether I can remove the darn thing from the engine or just give up and cut , I will try to squeeze in some SS lines!
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About the sizes, maybe someone else will chime in. I know on mine the smaller fitting was more like a 20mm and my cresent wrench didn't go big enough to get the larger one. My car is a S5 NA maybe others are different? Sry, wish I knew the sizes for ya.