Removing Brake Dust Shields?
#1
Removing Brake Dust Shields?
I've been reading other automotive forums, and I've noticed many racers removed their brake dust shields. Some say, it has lessened fade. Other say negative things like driving on the wet, and the shields are for obstructing debris not just dust from entering the pads themselves. On the FC we have nice vents in the front bumper for air flow to the brakes. I want to try to fabricate something like this...
And this http://www.cashmo.org/spec7/brakes.html.
And this http://www.cashmo.org/spec7/brakes.html.
Last edited by iamxeddiex; 12-02-10 at 02:03 AM.
#4
Many racers don't seem too bright <.<
Cars have gone without brake coolers for decades, what says that you NEED one (that looks like this anyway). If you're going to get a decent brake cooler, you're better off using something that... lets say, looks better, and does a better job, and has a less chance of catching on fire when you turn the wheel. Use the OEM brake coolers, or an aluminum pipe or something, not rice paper.
Cars have gone without brake coolers for decades, what says that you NEED one (that looks like this anyway). If you're going to get a decent brake cooler, you're better off using something that... lets say, looks better, and does a better job, and has a less chance of catching on fire when you turn the wheel. Use the OEM brake coolers, or an aluminum pipe or something, not rice paper.
Last edited by TeamFervor'sSavannah; 12-02-10 at 10:00 AM.
#5
Material choice is the least of that setup's problems.
Probably the most important part of a ducted setup is the hat.
The whole point (entirely missed by the yahoo(s) in the pic) is to force the air into the center of the brake rotor so it's forced through the internal vanes and out the perimeter.
Just pointing air at the disk surface is pointless and potentially destructive.
Also pointless would be doing any of this to a street car with stock brakes.
What brake setup are you running?
Probably the most important part of a ducted setup is the hat.
The whole point (entirely missed by the yahoo(s) in the pic) is to force the air into the center of the brake rotor so it's forced through the internal vanes and out the perimeter.
Just pointing air at the disk surface is pointless and potentially destructive.
Also pointless would be doing any of this to a street car with stock brakes.
What brake setup are you running?
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#10
that looks like the electric turbos, there is already ducting on the front breaks (not sure about the back). my suggestion would be upgrade break pads i'm sure the gains you gain with better pads will out weigh the gains of large vacuum hoses that could tear up inside the wheel well.
that setup btw looks horrible, why is it zip tied to the tie rod and flush against the rotor, at least if it was on the wheel well walls and aimed out to spread evenly over the rotor, in which case would still look horrible.
that setup btw looks horrible, why is it zip tied to the tie rod and flush against the rotor, at least if it was on the wheel well walls and aimed out to spread evenly over the rotor, in which case would still look horrible.
#14
If you put slots in the STONE guard not dust guard and open the slots up and shape them up to form air fins it will probably do as much as any thing else .. Even mig one or two inch fins on to the slotted stone guard I know there isn't much room but it would help
#15
Hey bud I was thinking the same thing. To anyone that watches racing on tv, most race cars use a similar setup except in black instead of orange. That hose is pretty good stuff It has a steel wire coiled into it. It's also heat resistant silicone i believe. I used some to fab my intake. It's also much much lighter than SS or aluminum intakes.
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Frisky Arab
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08-18-15 05:30 PM