not to keen on the bottle.

 

bump

 

Thanks, but FYI the most knowledgeable people on this forum are not moderators. We moderators are people who have no lives and spend too much time on the computer. That's all.

Yes, research it some more before spending your hard-earned dollars.

Just don't go out and buy new injectors unless yours are not working. You should still closely monitor your engine for signs of running lean, especially when making modifications. In your case, the injectors should be fine, but a bad fuel pump, bad filter, bad fuel lines, etc., can cause major problems, so you still are not home free. Also, the stock ECU will not run the stock injectors very high, so this could be a problem.

Read the rules of whatever class you want to race in before buying anything. Trust me, you don't want to spend $400 on a helmet and $1,500 on a roll cage just to find out that they are not legal for racing. Even the fire extinguishers have racing standards. That fake monkey-bar "cage" and mini rice fire extinguisher stuff you see in the car magazines is just for show. To quote one of my racing buddies, real race cars "look good from far, but far from good". LOL

 

Just a request... please be more informative in your mod recommendations. Though the kit can supply 125 hp, other mods are needed to support this.

In actuality, the kit can support above 125hp.

 

I only plan on racing at a drag strip or on the street so rules don't really apply to me since I don't Auto cross I just like to drive fast and luve the sound of my engine reving up through the gears.
Moderators are still a lot nicer than most on the forum

Better to have a friend that knows a little than an *** who knows a lot.

 

I really must address a couple of myths that have been stated earlier in the thread...

True dual exhaust is only beneficial on STOCK ported rotaries. The larger the port and hence the greater the port overlap, the more important a collected exhaust becomes. There is NO scavenging effect from the other rotor on a dual and this is what adds alot of power on bigger ported engines. I have had both ported and nonported engines as well as dual and collected (long and short) systems so I speak from experience. I don't care who from what shop says otherwise. Not trying to be a punk here just speaking the truth. Once you try a dual on a stock port rotary you will definitely believe the Mazdatrix horsepower claim. Once you try duals on a ported motor, you'll wish you had a collected.

Next: Why is there no gain to be had from adding a standalone ecu to a stock ported engine? The afm is restrictive since the opening is small but it is also restrictive since there is a spring loaded door trying to hold itself shut. You wouldn't believe how much faster an engine revs without the afm in line when using a standalone. The factory is only concerned with emissions and gas mileage not ultimate power. If there were no gains to be had then people wouldn't be using the inferior (to a Haltech) S-AFC units. Many people on here have them and are getting more power. There is power to be had in tuning as well as the less restrictive intake. When I talked to a guy at SDS on the phone he claimed that the 2nd gens would gain about 10% more horsepower just from the lack of afm. In reality it would be a much greater amount with proper tuning. The hard thing is deciding to pay $1500 for a unit and $100 an hour dyno time. Just my opinion though. I know others differ.

Myth #3: 2nd gens run rich... '86-'88 run lean on the top end, '89-'91 run rich.

I will admit that Scathcart (even though he doesn't like me) knows more about nitrous than most so he can address all of those questions.