Removed ABS, now idles high
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Removed ABS, now idles high
This is the strangest thing I've ever had happen to my car. I removed the ABS unit completely and re-routed the lines to their appropriate positions. Bleed the brakes and do all that fun stuff, check for leaks, everything's solid.
So I take it out on the road, and the pedal is a little mushy at first (engages way lower than where it used to engage) and then gets as stiff as it used to get. So I'm guessing there's air in the lines maybe? Anyhow..
Then, I'm sitting at a light with Raptor13x in the passenger seat, and I'm like "that's strange, it's idling at 1500".. and the car had been running for a good couple 'o minutes by then. We take it around the block another time, and now I KNOW it should be warm enough, but it's still idling at 1500 (it idled at like 800 once the engine was warm before, 1500 when it was cold).
So I try to adjust the idle screw, can only take it down to like 1200. Not good.
Soooooo.. question is this.. what part of the ABS removal would cause this? The whole unit is gone from the engine bay, and the only thing I removed was the split air pipe (which was already disconnected & cut at the rubber hose, and OPEN down near the cats, so it shouldn't affect idle), the hose that went from the airpump thingey on the engine (not the airpump), whatever that emissions piece of crap is called, from that thingey to the "muffler" in the pass. side front, and THAT was already open too. I checked for vacuum leaks, and I didn't find any (although I can double-check again this morning and see, but I didn't see any, and it's strange that a vacuum leak is changing the idle by 700 RPM, exactly what it runs cold). And other than that, I removed the ABS computer and its associated wiring.
So I take it out on the road, and the pedal is a little mushy at first (engages way lower than where it used to engage) and then gets as stiff as it used to get. So I'm guessing there's air in the lines maybe? Anyhow..
Then, I'm sitting at a light with Raptor13x in the passenger seat, and I'm like "that's strange, it's idling at 1500".. and the car had been running for a good couple 'o minutes by then. We take it around the block another time, and now I KNOW it should be warm enough, but it's still idling at 1500 (it idled at like 800 once the engine was warm before, 1500 when it was cold).
So I try to adjust the idle screw, can only take it down to like 1200. Not good.
Soooooo.. question is this.. what part of the ABS removal would cause this? The whole unit is gone from the engine bay, and the only thing I removed was the split air pipe (which was already disconnected & cut at the rubber hose, and OPEN down near the cats, so it shouldn't affect idle), the hose that went from the airpump thingey on the engine (not the airpump), whatever that emissions piece of crap is called, from that thingey to the "muffler" in the pass. side front, and THAT was already open too. I checked for vacuum leaks, and I didn't find any (although I can double-check again this morning and see, but I didn't see any, and it's strange that a vacuum leak is changing the idle by 700 RPM, exactly what it runs cold). And other than that, I removed the ABS computer and its associated wiring.
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Cruise control is already gone.
So there's NOTHING that the ECU would be doing goofy once the ABS computer and the two harnesses that connect out of it (actually three, one HUGE one, and two other ones) are disconnected?
So there's NOTHING that the ECU would be doing goofy once the ABS computer and the two harnesses that connect out of it (actually three, one HUGE one, and two other ones) are disconnected?
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Well, I don't know how, but it's fine now.
Matter of fact, tore it up at the autocross today, great fun.
Yesterday I cut and re-connected a line that looked like it might be a little iffy, it was hard as CRAP to get back on, but it made it back on. And other than that, I just re-mounted the throttle cable holding bracket back by the proportioning valve (I forgot to do that before).. dunno what did it, but it's ok now.
Matter of fact, tore it up at the autocross today, great fun.
Yesterday I cut and re-connected a line that looked like it might be a little iffy, it was hard as CRAP to get back on, but it made it back on. And other than that, I just re-mounted the throttle cable holding bracket back by the proportioning valve (I forgot to do that before).. dunno what did it, but it's ok now.
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