stage3_rx7

Who is "attacking" who?

TitaniumTT

Right, it was only a link in the first post to my write-up on the conversion itself. If that isn't valuable to this thread than I don't know what would be. Certainly not your opinion about how to tell what a converted ps rack would feel like. Maybe a hack job conversion, but not a properly done one. Speak only when you know what you are talking about in the future please.

It's alot more than a 10lb weight savings there pal. Ever overrun a PS pump? Ever think that maybe all that fluid acts as a dampener, ever realize that there is movement in the steering quill itself to allow fluid to move around? The answer is obviously NO. You really should stop talking about **** that you don't know about and keep your misquided opinions to yourself.

His vaginas getting tight becuase I pointed out that his tests of the powersteering pump are invalid and he probably did the manual conversion wrong. If properly done a ps -> manual conversion is rather easy to steer. I have a smaller than stock steering wheel, sticky 225's and an epoxy garage floor and pavement to test on. The steering when completely stopped was SURPRISINGLY easy to move. I kept a ps rack just incase I didn't like it.

Black91n/a

I've pulled the rack from my car twice and you're vastly overstating how hard it is to do. All you have to do is remove the undertray, unbolt the tie rod ends, undo the steering shaft that comes from the steering wheel, undo the sway bar, undo the lines then slide the rack out. It's not that hard. I could probably get one out and back in again in an hour, including jacking the car up.

Even a fully functionning PS system, while not "broken" can be a hinderance to performance driving. I've already said my story and there's another one right above it on the first page of this thread for an S4 system, so neither one is perfect.

Yes it's a personal choice whether you want to do it or not, but comments about it being hard to steer are utter crap. Yes it's heavier than power steering, but it's not bad. I recently did a 12 hour drive and it wasn't an issue at all. I track my car on 225 wide R comp tires and it's not an issue there either.

RockyZ

iTrader: (8)

I have a FC with manual steering rack and properly inflated tires. The steering is VERY easy. Maybe I'm just used to it. But I couldn't really tell much difference between power and non-powered. I can turn the wheel even when I'm barely/not moving.

I had a FC with a power steering rack and just the pump removed and rack drained, and the steering felt horrible. Get a manual steering rack.

SleepeR1st

iTrader: (1)

I did Titanium's power steering conversion a while ago. It was fairly simple and it seems to of worked pretty well. Of course i haven't driven my car with it yet, but i adjusted the steering so it's tight while standing still.

NCross

iTrader: (18)

I've done two 13b engine swaps so I know how and where the parts all bolt up. If your like me and work 6 days a week it's hard to find time to take probably your only car and disable it by taking the front apart to do this swap. Of course I don't literally mean taking your front end apart... but you have to remove a good bit. It's a good 2-3 hour job. If your in the middle of an engine swap and have an empty engine bay and an extra car than I say go for it.

Here is how my last swap was originally... No PS pump, pulleys, belt. put a little bottle of fluid in the rack and capped it all off. Granted it's not as hard to steer as just unplugging the PS computer or removing the belt... I still think it is more difficult to steer then with a healthy fully operational PS system. And when I say it's hard to steer that doesn't mean I'm summoning all of my strength just to rotate the steering wheel... It means that it's harder than it should be or can be easier.

My 240sx had manual steering. I hated backing out of parking spots etc. Although over 10 MPH it feels pretty much the same as PS. Where as disabling PS by unplugging the computer, you must be doing 40MPH to not tell a difference between MS and PS. After driving it like this for a week or so I installed all of the PS equipment.

The pump, pulleys, belt, all weigh in at around 10 pounds. The fluid adds maybe another 3 pounds. It's not like it holds a gallon of fluid.

It's like all these people saying removing the AC saves 45 pounds... , and sound tar weighs 40 pounds... but that's a different story.

TitaniumTT

Thats becuase you did the conversion WRONG!!!!!!!. Had you done it properly it wouldn't have felt horrible, it would've felt slightly stiffer than a true manual rack because the seals and fluid that you were fighting would be gone. Read my write-up before you start spouting about hack job **** that's done improperly in the first place. You stating that is the equivalent of saying not to do a big brake kit becuase the pedal got so stiff when you diliberately didn't reconnect the power brake booster. I ******* HATE when kids have to stand up to talk.

TitaniumTT

Pal, I don't want to sound like a dick but you REALLY need to stop speaking your opinion on this subject. You did a hack job 1/2 assed conversion and that's the end of it. Had you done it my way you would've had VERY different results. You putting fluid back in the rack only gave you one more thing to fight when trying to turn the wheel. Not to mention the slop that still existed in the quill. Trust me on this, do it my way and you'll change your mind.

NCross

iTrader: (18)

Oooooo! The all knowing TitaniumTT...

I TOLD YOU I HAD A CAR WITH MANUAL STEERING FROM THE FACTORY....

Why can't you get that through your head??

I guess I should have removed the seals and fluid and should have done it your way on that one too, huh? Oh wait... it was OEM manual steering and I didn't have to!!!

I expressed my opinion on this issue. I did not bash anybodys methods or preferences. I simply said I like having a healthy functioning power steering system on my cars. You just had to blow this way the **** out of proportion.

ITSWILL

iTrader: (12)

if I can manage to drive my friends big block chevelle with no ps then I think even a homo could easilly steer an RX7.

TitaniumTT

Actually they call me the huge **** epic n00b powerhouser but whatever. If you had manual steering from the factory, they explain this post.......

I'm telling you, asking you, begging you to STFU becuase you did this conversion WRONG. You left seals in place and filled a cavity with fluid that you then CAPPED off!?!?!?!?! Seriously - you could not have done it more worng if you tried. Your opinion on this matter is now officailly, completely & utterly worthless. Now, if you're referring to having on opinion on your shitty nissan with the manual steering rack when we're talking about an RX7, than I might as well go convert my lifted Cherokee with 31" mudders and report back on how easy or difficult that is to steer with a manual conversion. See where I'm going with this? I did not bash you at first but for some reason your little e-go got hurt and now you're trying as desperately as possible to not seem like an idiot. The irony is you continue to prove my point with every post you make. Sorry if your e-***** shriveled more pal, but you are just absolutely wrong on this matter.

NCross

iTrader: (18)

PM sent

TitaniumTT

PM so childish I though I should share it.



Now, what did I read wrong? You said you had a car that came with a manual rack from the factory, correct? I'm telling you it means absolutely nothing in this conversation. We are talking about a converted FC, not a Nissan. Remember that comment I made about converting my lifted Cherokee with mudders and reporting how that felt? That is what is known as sarcasm. Test drive as many cars with manual steering as you want and it still has zero bearing on a conversation about FC's with a manual rack. It's all opinions anyway and shouldn't be taken too heavily either. Just like suspension systems. "How does it feel?" is virtually a wasted question. My 21' Checkmate has manual steering. Should I chime in on how that feels @ 60mph in light chop?

Secondly, you did the conversion in the worst possible way. The point of the PROPER conversion is to remove all the fluid from the rack and the seals that hinder the rack from moving & push fluid around. You did none of this. Infact, what you did was virtually just as bad as just taking the belt off. You filled the rack with fluid and then capped off the fittings. Worst thing you could've done in my opinion. More than likely the pressure you generated turning the wheel forced all the fluid out. In my mind, you probably felt you were getting used to it but infact you were just pushing the fluid past your caps until
you were moving nothing but air. I could be wrong but I suspect that's what happened.

I can't stand it when people cannot admit when they are wrong. If you thought 2*2 was five you would fight that tooth & nail regardless of all the thousands of pages of evidence that could be put infront of you. That right there is the BIGGEST sign of insecurity and immaturity in my eyes. Be a ******* man and admit that you're wrong.

MazdaMike02

iTrader: (4)

I just swapped in a manual rack and yeah its great...even when im steering it when I'm pushing it around the driveway its not bad...it runs now so hopefully no more of that

NCross

iTrader: (18)

ok

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Jeebus, what the hell is going on here?

The OP certainly never mentioned what had happened to the car he was looking at, so I assumed that the power rack had simply been replaced with a manual one.
My original thought was "Just drive the car and see what you think".
Beyond that, it would seem that the only other response would be-
A. "I like power steering" or
B. "I prefer manual steering",
Either of which are akin to saying "I like cilantro" or "I don't like cilantro".

@T3...OK, we get it.
I agree that your method of modifying the original power rack is a good one (probably the only "good" way, actually) but -just to be pedantic- I also think the only "proper" method is to replace the rack altogether and just drop in a factory manual unit. Cost me all of $25 at the junkyard and a few hours time and I didn't have to field strip it and weld anything, so it was much simpler as well.

Finally, the proof that 2 x 2= 4 would only run a few paragraphs...if it took you thousands of pages, you're doing something wrong.
There is a corollary there that can be directly applied to this thread.

ITSWILL

iTrader: (12)

how about we close this thread now. It was funny at first but now its just annoying. TT is right, you need to either explain yourself better somehow or just admit when you are wrong. You really cant expect to post anything without it being questioned, even if it were accurate.

Black91n/a

Maybe, since manual rack pinions are usally through hardened, whereas power rack pinions are usually just case hardened, but many people have done it and I've never heard of problems. Your solution there ignores the reason most of us went to the trouble of converting a rack, that's the faster ratio. It's also a plan dependant on availability. I have a hard enough time finding an FC in a junkyard at all, nevermind one with some particular option.

TitaniumTT

There were a few boneyards that had some FC's a few years ago. Now I can't find a single damn one anywhere.

It's rotary powered right? There will be pushing Just make sure it's from the bumper. You'd be surprised how easy the sheet metal on either side of the third brake light bends

I don't like cilantro but I do like your point. I've tried to make it in suspensions threads and gave up. Gave up here on the "feel" aspect, now just trying to point out the fact that someones opinions on the manual conversion when it was done wrong are just useless.

Thank you. I converted mine as opposed to buying a manual for 2 reasons - faster ratio, couldn't find a manual

I must have mistyped. What I meant to imply was that regardless of how many thousands of pages from however many different people all saying the same thing, he still wouldn't admit it. See sig as well

clokker

iTrader: (2)

See, look at that, you both agree on something.
Let's all join in a verse of Kumbaya...I'll start.

Now, about this "faster ratio" thing...
Have either of you any experience with the "slower ratio" racks?
I admit to some trepidation when the only manual I could find was the slowest of the slow ratios (20:1, or something) but in practice, it's just fine.
Maybe a converted "fast" rack would be worlds better...I don't know...I'm just curious why everyone is so fixated on the ratio if they've never tried them all.

TitaniumTT

Black91n/a & I always agree, we just have very different ways of trying to get the same point across

The factory manual only came in the 20:1 version. There were no other manual ratio's offered. It is different. How different that's really an I like/don't like cilantro question. I felt the difference though, however, I don't think it would've been enough of a difference for me to stay power 15.2:1 as opposed to going manual 20:1..... if that made any sense.

wvumtnbkr

I have driven a manual (factory 20:1) and the depowered rack. I have also driven the powered rack. I like the depowered rack the best. It even seems to be easier to turn the wheel than the manual rack (I have no idea why!)

Take all of this with a grain of salt if you are not racing / autocrossing / Time trials/ etc. I do all of this with my FC, and couldn't be happier with the depowered rack.

P.S. I depowered my rack the TTT way.

Peace!

Rob

Black91n/a

I'm on my third steering iteration in my car. It came with the 17.4:1 power rack, then I converted it to manual (see archives), then I bouight and did the TTT conversion on a 15.2:1 rack and it's my favorite. I did notice the slight increase in steering speed, but more than that I noticed the increase in precision and feel from the welding. I track my car and I think that the 20:1 rack would be a hinderance in the really slow corners as I'd probably have to shuffle my hands where now I get by with about 180 degrees of steering motion.