Reliablilty on Turbo II's
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Reliablilty on Turbo II's
I just got (about a month ago) a 90 Turbo II from my uncle (who just got a FD) I am not looking to make it fast right now I just want to know what are some things I can do to make it more reliable. What are usually the weak points of thise engine and what are the best things to do to keep it running good.
Also what is a good way to tell if it is about to go? Compression test? What should I look out for?
Also what is a good way to tell if it is about to go? Compression test? What should I look out for?
#4
No really, use the search button or look in the archives. For simple **** like this, its really not hard looking rather than calling people smart asses. If there isnt anything wrong with the tii right now, leave it alone.
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Yeah, get a compression test see where your at. Keep on changing that oil....that is a MUST and keep the level up too. Get yourself a boost gauge see what the boost is doing too. but keep changing the oil...every 3k should be good. And keep the coolant up. Use good gas too! No 87 octane :P
Last edited by DC350; 01-23-03 at 01:45 AM.
#6
Re: Reliablilty on Turbo II's
Originally posted by vaseline
I just got (about a month ago) a 90 Turbo II from my uncle (who just got a FD) I am not looking to make it fast right now I just want to know what are some things I can do to make it more reliable. What are usually the weak points of thise engine and what are the best things to do to keep it running good.
Also what is a good way to tell if it is about to go? Compression test? What should I look out for?
I just got (about a month ago) a 90 Turbo II from my uncle (who just got a FD) I am not looking to make it fast right now I just want to know what are some things I can do to make it more reliable. What are usually the weak points of thise engine and what are the best things to do to keep it running good.
Also what is a good way to tell if it is about to go? Compression test? What should I look out for?
Jarrett
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#8
Originally posted by dr0x
The pulsation damper should be replaced or taken off anyways. Plus a fire extinguisher is useless. There is a few dif types of fires and extinguishers.
The pulsation damper should be replaced or taken off anyways. Plus a fire extinguisher is useless. There is a few dif types of fires and extinguishers.
And there are 4 different types of fires, and several different types of fire-extinguishers. Should you decide to buy a fire extinguisher at an AUTO PARTS store, I would think that they would sell the correct one.
So you actually advocate NOT having a fire extinguisher in your car?????
Okay then...
Jarrett
#9
Well, do you keep a fire extinguisher for fuel fires, and then another for electrical?
Yes, if you car is in good condition you shouldnt need one. The most common cause is a fuel leak, easily enough to find out if you have one. Cutting the wrapping off your wiring harness will tell you if it needs to be rewired or replaced.
Plus replacing the pd with a banjo bolt is fine. It is better to replace it after a given amount of time (not 100% sure about how long they generally last) with a new pd, but oh well.
Yes, if you car is in good condition you shouldnt need one. The most common cause is a fuel leak, easily enough to find out if you have one. Cutting the wrapping off your wiring harness will tell you if it needs to be rewired or replaced.
Plus replacing the pd with a banjo bolt is fine. It is better to replace it after a given amount of time (not 100% sure about how long they generally last) with a new pd, but oh well.
#10
Originally posted by dr0x
Well, do you keep a fire extinguisher for fuel fires, and then another for electrical?
Yes, if you car is in good condition you shouldnt need one. The most common cause is a fuel leak, easily enough to find out if you have one. Cutting the wrapping off your wiring harness will tell you if it needs to be rewired or replaced.
Plus replacing the pd with a banjo bolt is fine. It is better to replace it after a given amount of time (not 100% sure about how long they generally last) with a new pd, but oh well.
Well, do you keep a fire extinguisher for fuel fires, and then another for electrical?
Yes, if you car is in good condition you shouldnt need one. The most common cause is a fuel leak, easily enough to find out if you have one. Cutting the wrapping off your wiring harness will tell you if it needs to be rewired or replaced.
Plus replacing the pd with a banjo bolt is fine. It is better to replace it after a given amount of time (not 100% sure about how long they generally last) with a new pd, but oh well.
The same extinguisher you use to put out a fuel fire is the EXACT SAME ONE you use for an electrical fire. Do you want to know why? Well, obviously, you dont use water on electrical fires, it conducts. And you dont use water on gas fires, cause you just added a shitload more oxygen to the fire.
And YES, the PD fails, we all know that... But its there for a reason, which most of you dont even know. I would rather replace it then put a banjo bolt in.
Jarrett
#11
Not necessarily. You can use a CO extinguisher to put out a fuel fire. That wont do **** against an electrical (unless it was a 1 time short that started it, then it might). And yes I know exactly why the pd is there. Its not rocket science (pretty simple and good reason for it actually)
#12
Originally posted by dr0x
Not necessarily. You can use a CO extinguisher to put out a fuel fire. That wont do **** against an electrical (unless it was a 1 time short that started it, then it might). And yes I know exactly why the pd is there. Its not rocket science (pretty simple and good reason for it actually)
Not necessarily. You can use a CO extinguisher to put out a fuel fire. That wont do **** against an electrical (unless it was a 1 time short that started it, then it might). And yes I know exactly why the pd is there. Its not rocket science (pretty simple and good reason for it actually)
Well, for whatever reason, you feel its not necessary to carry an extinguisher, thats your perogative. . I carry one in every car I own. Its a good thing to have.
As for the PD, its there for a reason. There are plenty of aftermarket manufacturers that make reliable replacements. Agreed, a banjo bolt is one way to eliminate the danger. But it does have drawbacks.
Jarrett
(sig included so we can continue this argument without hijacking this thread)
Last edited by J-Rat; 01-23-03 at 02:51 AM.
#14
Originally posted by dr0x
It is a good idea for some people, I guess. I have enough faith in my car to not light on fire
However, I do need a scatter shield.
It is a good idea for some people, I guess. I have enough faith in my car to not light on fire
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My opinion is precisely that, my opinion. The originator of this thread wanted advice, and I gave it. No snappy retorts about the search button, or anything else. Just sound advice. Take it or leave it.....
Jarrett
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I would change your oil like every 1500 - 2000 miles. Check you oil level every day cause these cars burn oil.
Also, put 2 stroke motor oil in your gas when you fill up, 1 ounce per gallon.
If you want to make your car faster, buy a K&N filter, Racing Beat 3" downpipe and get a 3" custom made exhaust. Also get a fuel cut defence so you don't hit fuel cut. Also, get a boost gauge.
Oh, and you might want to flush all the fluids.
Mike
Also, put 2 stroke motor oil in your gas when you fill up, 1 ounce per gallon.
If you want to make your car faster, buy a K&N filter, Racing Beat 3" downpipe and get a 3" custom made exhaust. Also get a fuel cut defence so you don't hit fuel cut. Also, get a boost gauge.
Oh, and you might want to flush all the fluids.
Mike
#17
Why not carry an abc extinguisher? That will handle your combustibles (paper, wood), liquids (fuel), and electical. I have put out many engine fires using sodiam bicarbanate (is that spelled right?...lol) fire extinguishers. The only thing it won't handle is metal fires, for that you need a class D extinguisher, but unless you drive a vw bug with a magnesiam block, don't worry about it
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Not that I want to get into a “flame” war about the extinguisher but Halon (not sure if I spelled that correctly) is great. Aside from that he said he has a 1990 those are the better PD’s on the market. Any way to answer you question about reliability mods. I would start with a comp test like DC350 said this is a good base line to make sure you motor is in good shape to start off with. From here you should do what you do to any “new” used car. Replace all filters, change all oil/fluids, new spark plugs, check and or replace the spark plug wires, new belts, and coolant hoses. From here it all depends on your mechanical ability. I would get a silicone hose kit and replace all the vacuum hoses. Then I would drive and enjoy and take care of problems when they happen.
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Wow this got off topic... but I have an ABC one so it works on anything... (well I guess not VW's LOL)
anyways start with a tune up. plugs, wires, fuel filter, check timming and TPS. change the oil and filter. change the tranny and diff fluid. change and flush the coolant and get a new "MAZDA" thermostat.
bleed the brakes and clutch fluid.
buy a downpipe.
anyways start with a tune up. plugs, wires, fuel filter, check timming and TPS. change the oil and filter. change the tranny and diff fluid. change and flush the coolant and get a new "MAZDA" thermostat.
bleed the brakes and clutch fluid.
buy a downpipe.
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The last thing that nobody said anything about: for near factory mods always use NGK plugs and wires..
I was a newbie not to long ago.. (don't know that much yet but getting the basics). Try to always use quality fluids. Where I buy/find my plugs and wires = www.clubplug.net
hope it helps
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hope it helps
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A tune up is a good place to begin with. Most people here use Castrol GTX 20W-50 oil and I personally like using Mazda oil filters. Don't buy anything but NGK spark plugs. Mazda thermostats are way better than aftermarket ones.
Replacing all vacuum lines with silicone ones is a good reliability mod. Make sure you get quality silicone lines or else they will melt. I know from experience
Hope this helps and welcome to the Board.
Replacing all vacuum lines with silicone ones is a good reliability mod. Make sure you get quality silicone lines or else they will melt. I know from experience
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Hope this helps and welcome to the Board.
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