Madrx7racer

there are a few people who have been working with the rotary for years and I'd consider their advise GOLD.....NZ is one of them.....i found these when I typed 220 rwhp.....https://www.rx7club.com/search.php?searchid=541942

now search for 250 rwhp and you might get a little more....it's not complicated and you don't get 9000 posts to look at...

oh and don't be a dick.

Snrub

iTrader: (1)

I suppose the question has to be asked, are you looking at competition racing or not? I think that's a big factor in what SPiN Racing has pointed out and probably the source of the disagreement between him and NZConvertable.

The non-sun roof varient is only available as an N/A chasis and pretty rare, but you could always swap a TII engine into an n/a chasis. The TII engine weighs about 40lbs more than the n/a.

Regarding the fuel and IC requirements, I think it depends on how fixated you are on the exact +50hp. If you go a little less then you wouldn't need it, if you want it then you'll either need these extras or be marginal. For what I did the IC was fine. The temps with the stock rad were REALLY high like 90%+. Not the smartest thing to do, but I did it anyway, the car took the abuse all day long and well beyond your 200 mile goal.

You don't necessarly have to rebuild the engine, but again that would change depending on how much of the "rotary experience" you want and if you're planning to race competitively.

NZConvertible

Actually my only issue was with his comparison of turbo and non-turbo engines. Then he just got silly...

Two of the stated requirements were that the car had to be streetable and legal. Even if it is to be used for competition, those two requirements have a big impact on engine choice and mods.

ma71supraturbo

The car won't be used for competitive road racing, just lapping days at the track. I was figuring on rebuilding the engine because a) a t2 with a bad engine would be much cheaper to purchase initially b) I'd know the engine was in good shape after the rebuild c) it would allow the purchase of a cheaper 87-88 t2, while still allowing the use of s5 rotors

The car will be built in stages, and I'm definitely ahead of myself right now (but I like to have an ultimate goal lined up to work towards rather than haphazardly add modifications based on the alignment of the stars ) Thanks to everyone for their replies, it's definitely got me enough info to get started -- I'm sure I'll be posting back as soon as he finds a car (anyone know of any 87-88 t2's in norcal with a straight body??)

Evil Aviator

That's because:
1) They are usually in different classes. One needs to keep that in mind when choosing a race car. Some people would rather not have a 13BT that puts them in a faster or more expensive racing class.
2) When in the same class, turbocharged engines are usually included with 20B or R26B NA engines in a GTO, GT1, and GTP type class in which larger displacement is allowed for non-turbo engines. The NA 20B and R26B have racked up many wins against turbocharged competitors.

NZ, I think you are thinking inside the "street car" box where there basically are no rules, in which your assertations do apply. Sanctioned racing events are a different animal.

A turbocharged engine is probably the way to go in that case. I really don't see a 250bhp NA passing emissions, although it could be made quieter with a v-band clamp exhaust system that allows for a quick change between street and track exhausts.

It all depends on the rules for the racing class. In most classes, you just use whatever body you like, and add or subtract parts as necessary. I would recommend getting a body without a sunroof, as they are a pain to modify to racing safety standards. As for the transmission, the racing class may also specify restrictions on this, so ALWAYS read the rules BEFORE buying a car or parts.

If you are just looking at club events with no rules other than safety regulations, keep in mind that the 89-92 cars have awful bushings and VLSD's. You would probably replace the bushings in any FC RX-7, so that may not be much of a factor. While many people have differing opinions about the clutch-type LSD vs. the torsen LSD, nobody likes racing with the viscous LSD.

LOL, SPiN lives in his own road racing world where he can in fact out-drive a 13BT car with his 13B NA car. Sometimes he forgets that the majority of the people on this forum are not capable of building or racing an NA engine at his level, and that most people here think in terms of drag racing where the turbo has a bigger advantage. He also lives in a state that does not have emissions testing.

Just for the record, I did race my modified TII against his NA Sport race car. I never beat his car, and darn if he didn't get better fuel consumption! However, his car was louder than mine, although it was still quite street legal.

NZConvertible

Often but not always (I'm thinking club-level racing here). The reason they're usually in different clesses is because the NA's would not be competitive in classes where turbos are allowed, which was my point.

Correct, since that what was originally asked about.

88IntegraLS

Speaking for myself, an owner of a modded FC NA with no more than 200 crank hp, let me tell you, modded NAs break. My latest problem was a cracked dowel pin hole on the rear iron. Tranny hasn't gone out yet but I'm budgeting for a TII driveline swap.

Fast cars break. Turbo IIs come with stronger parts to begin with. I'd recommend starting with a TII if your friend wants 250 reliable crank hp. A TII really wouldn't need very much modification to pump out 250 at the crank. An NA would need porting, loud exhaust, no emissions and would be much less drivable, as most power would be at the top of the power band, and the engine would need to be wound up constantly to make the car move.

rayden

i don't think drivability sounds like that big of an issue, as he plans to gut it anyway. i get the impression he just want's to be able to take it out for some "spirited driving" once in a while.
250 hp n/a? can you get your hands on a renesis? yeah, me niether

250 is right about on the cusp of where the n/a and turbo camps would be divided i htink. maybe a bit higher than that piont. 200 and they'd say n/a, 300 an you're looking turbo without a doubt.

P.S. : also, almost everytime a thread comes up when someone asks about buying a 7, many people will say "if it's you're first rotory, consider an n/a". i'm not 100% sure why that is, but maybe that should be considered too.

capn

depends what V8 you go with, if its about the same wieght im not sure how much handling. because Cadillac Northstar V8s weigh about 440lbs which is pretty close to a longblock 13b

but it also depends on placement

White_FC

Since when did a long block 13b weigh 440lb's?!!
Thats huge. I can lift a short block by hand over 3m. So you can't possibly be saying im that strong.
From what i've read a short block is 100kg's. That seems about right to me.
A long block can't add THAT much more?! surely....

Snrub

iTrader: (1)

Drifting off topic, but in an attempt to end the debate see following link for engine weights:
http://www.geocities.com/jeffguilfoi...neweights.html